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The Hong Kong bar reviving long-forgotten Cantonese spirits
Journalist-turned-bartender Gavin Yeung speaks to Nimmi Malhotra about resurrecting long-neglected Cantonese spirits at his new-age Hong Kong bar.
Located on Soho’s Peel Street, Kinsman evokes a sense of nostalgia for the old Hong Kong. The bar, dedicated to a bygone Hong Kong culture and Cantonese spirits, launched in 2023 in collaboration with local F&B group The Singular Group.
The cocktail programme, now in its second iteration, uses Cantonese spirits — which Yeung defines as “any liquor traditionally distilled in Canton, or modern-day Guangdong province” — as the base. He then builds flavours with local and international ingredients.
The native Hongkonger came across the spirits while researching an article, and the concept of a bar took shape as he delved further into retro labels, strange and unique wines like deer antler wine, Mui Kwe Lu rose liqueur and baiju.
Gavin Yeung spoke to db about his concept and its impact on reviving Hong Kong’s spirit.
Rarely do we find a journalist turn to bartending. How did it come about?
“My transition from food writing to bartending was a natural evolution of my passion for storytelling. As a food writer, I’ve always sought to explore under-appreciated narratives, and the world of Cantonese spirits was one that had been largely overlooked. After guest shifts at various bars, I realised the potential to create something unique that celebrated Hong Kong’s rich distilling history, which ultimately led to the inception of Kinsman.”
Before Kinsman, many had never heard about Cantonese spirits. How did you find them and revive them?
“My journey began with a fascination for these spirits, particularly after discovering Yuk Bing Siu — a rice wine macerated with pork fat — at a local store. It was a revelation that such rich flavours still existed. At Kinsman, we aim to revive this heritage by integrating these spirits into modern cocktails, making them accessible and appealing to a new generation.”
Your second inspiration for the bar comes from Wong Kar-Wai’s In the Mood for Love. How did you bring the film to life in Kinsman?
“Wong Kar-Wai’s In the Mood for Love evokes a sense of nostalgia and romance that resonates deeply with our vision at Kinsman. The bar’s design reflects this aesthetic with shophouse-inspired decor and artwork that pays homage to Hong Kong’s past. The connection between the film and Cantonese spirits lies in their shared cultural roots — both represent a longing for tradition and an appreciation for subtlety. Our cocktails are crafted not just as drinks but as stories that echo the sentiments captured in the film.”
Tell us about some of your bestselling drinks.
“Two standout cocktails at Kinsman are the Kowloon Dairy and Milk & Honey. The Kowloon Dairy blends two “amaros” from local brand Magnolia Lab, creating a complex flavour and textural profile with a name that resonates widely with local drinkers. Meanwhile, the Milk & Honey layers many elements of milk — the milky notes of Yuk Bing Siu, homemade milk liqueur and milky oolong tea — with lychee honey. The garnish of Fujiya Milky candy is a nostalgic element that leaves many of our guests pleasantly surprised.”
Are there any others in Hong Kong working towards a revival of Cantonese spirit?
“We work closely with Magnolia Lab, who are crafting unique liqueurs that align perfectly with our vision at Kinsman and have plans in the works to create some custom bottlings of our own with them.
“We also source snake wine, a very traditional spirit found across Asian cultures, from Ser Wong Fun, a neighbouring snake restaurant that has been in operation for over a century.”
Tell us more about the advocacy you’re creating through your media and bar network.
“I see it as an important task to promote Hong Kong’s liquid heritage through my work both as an editor and a bar owner. Whenever we do local guest shifts, I make it a point to push the guest bartender to use Cantonese spirits in their cocktails as a way of creating awareness about the rich background of spirits that they can draw from.
“I was recently a judge at the Hong Kong edition of this year’s Young Chef Young Waiter Young Mixologist competition, so I worked with the organisers to host a masterclass as well as to create a challenge for the participants in creating a cocktail using Cantonese spirits.”
What wider role does Kinsman play in reviving Hong Kong culture?
“These days, visitors to Hong Kong are looking for cultural experiences over shopping, so at Kinsman, we try to create an immersive environment where everything from the interior to the cocktails, food, music and staff uniforms are calibrated to reference the history and culture of Hong Kong in some meaningful way.
“Our menu plays a huge part in this; the second edition pays tribute to the indigenous communities of Hong Kong, educating guests on their history while introducing them to their flavours, and also comes with a glossary of Cantonese spirits in the back for further reading. We also introduce old Chinese wine shops through social media to encourage guests to travel further out and explore them before they’re gone for good.”
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