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How was 2020 as a vintage for Brunello di Montalcino?
Filippo Bartolotta offers his verdict on the soon-to-be-released 2020 vintage Brunello di Montalcino, and examines how it compares to its predecessors.
Benvenuto Brunello is considered the founding event of Italy’s wine previews, dedicated to the king of Tuscan reds: Brunello di Montalcino, a monovarietal wine made from pure Sangiovese, expressing its fullest potential in Montalcino.
Brunello di Montalcino, with its Mediterranean flair and unmistakable Sangiovese expression, symbolises the excellence of Tuscan winemaking traditions. It is a wine born from the delicate balance of human skill and nature’s generosity. Each vintage tells a unique story shaped by commitment, patience, and respect for the land. This creates a connection that transcends the product, embodying culture and centuries-old knowledge.
Participating in Benvenuto Brunello doesn’t just mean tasting and appreciating the wines, but also diving into a world of discovery, knowledge, and emotions that only fine wine can evoke.
This year’s edition followed the traditional format while introducing some notable innovations. It partially returned to its roots, featuring walk-around tastings with producers and opening its doors to wine lovers alongside the press. There were also three in-depth masterclasses focusing on different vintages and production styles, offering a more comprehensive perspective for tasters.
“Benvenuto Brunello in November remains a key preview event for strengthening the positioning of our denomination in the market, especially internationally, where we export around 70% of our production,” said consorzio president Fabrizio Bindocci. “This year, we wanted to maintain technical tastings for critics while also expanding the content by involving producers directly, creating a shared space for producers, professionals, press, and wine lovers.”
Over five days, I tasted more than 500 labels from 126 wineries. The spotlight was on Brunello di Montalcino 2020 and Riserva 2019, alongside Rosso di Montalcino 2023 and other wines of the denomination: Moscadello and Sant’Antimo.
A new vintage evaluation system
Before delving into the tasting notes, it’s worth highlighting a significant change: the vintage evaluation system. Previously rated using a star system (one to five stars) by the Consorzio, this year’s evaluation was handed over to an external panel of eight Masters of Wine.
“For the first time, we are relying on an external commission of super experts,” Bindocci explained.
The 2020 vintage, which will be available for sale in January, underwent a multi-phase evaluation process that included meteorological, analytical, and sensory assessments. This culminated in a tasting by the MWs, aiming to highlight the vintage’s stylistic and distinctive personality. This new method considers the climatic and regional factors unique to each vintage while incorporating both objective data and subjective impressions from experts.
“It was necessary to define a new paradigm for analyzing vintages, no longer based solely on quantity but on objective, authoritative, and impartial data,” Bindocci said. “This innovation allows Montalcino’s producers to present themselves based on a contemporary evaluation model, accounting for climate change, stylistic trends, and consumption preferences.”
Masters of Wine Gabriele Gorelli and Andrea Lonardi, in collaboration with Copernico, a leader in high-tech farming, praised the system: “This model, built for Montalcino, traces the appellation’s contemporary quality and stylistic renewal while addressing climate challenges. It also helps the region and producers communicate their identity more effectively.”
Market snapshot
Benvenuto Brunello also provides a platform to assess the denomination’s market status amid global consumption challenges. While some winemakers voiced concerns about tough market conditions, Brunello di Montalcino continues to perform well. Within the luxury red wine category, it holds a 32% share and achieved +5% growth in international markets (January–September 2024 vs. 2023). Sales were split between 54% on-premise and 46% off-premise, with a 5% increase in volume and a 1% rise in value.
This performance contrasts sharply with declines in many French and American wines. For example, Brunello’s growth outpaces major competitors like Beaune, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Margaux, and Pomerol, as well as regions like California’s Atlas Peak, which saw significant losses.
The value of Brunello di Montalcino continues to rise, not only in terms of wine, but also land. As Bindocci noted: “One hectare of Brunello vineyards is worth one million euros, while Rosso di Montalcino land ranges in price between €400,000 and €500,000. This reflects high demand for Montalcino’s vineyards, with virtually no supply available.”
The 2020 vintage: a Mediterranean masterpiece
To appreciate the nuances of the 2020 vintage, it’s helpful to review recent vintages:
2016: Elegant and refined, now showing spectacular complexity.
2017: Hot and powerful but with rugged tannins in some cases.
2018: A lighter year, with some exceptional examples of grace.
2019: Bold and productive, but occasionally lacking elegance.
By contrast, 2020 was initially feared for its lack of character and aging potential. However, this vintage turned out to be a testament to producers’ ability to adapt to climatic challenges. Wines from this year are bright, juicy, and balanced, with remarkable freshness, despite the heat.
The northern slopes of Montalcino, with their cooler clay soils, produced fragrant and elegant wines, while the southern areas showcased Mediterranean warmth and saline nuances. Together, they represent a delightful and surprising vintage with both immediate appeal and ageing potential.
Tasting notes
Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Deeply juicy and opulent, with a touch of sweet, ripe red fruit balanced by an intriguing bitter note of anaerobic coffee and Mediterranean maquis shrubland. The palate is vibrant, saline, and profoundly mineral, with a striking aromatic depth with notes of quinine. A long, succulent finish reveals refreshing layers of mint and sweet bergamot. A truly remarkable and nuanced expression.
Le Ragnaie Casanovina Montosoli Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Bursting with red fruit and liquorice, this wine offers a powerful yet balanced profile. The saline undertones enhance its sweetness, creating a dynamic tension. Like a “katana,” the structure is precise and cutting, reflecting the vineyard’s altitude with sharp notes of gentian, fennel, and orange zest. The red flower and fruit aromas provide elegance, while the potential for evolution is undeniable.
Canalicchio di Sopra Vigna Montosoli Brunello di Montalcino 2020
An impressive display of power and depth, this wine boasts a perfect tannin structure and exceptional richness. Aromas of cool spices and ripe red fruits dominate, complemented by an alluring saline quality. The northern terroir’s influence shines through in its velvety texture and restrained yet profound character. A masterpiece of balance and finesse, with a complexity that unfolds beautifully over time.
Canalicchio di Sopra Vigna la Casaccia Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Elegant and floral, with delicate hints of watermelon and medicinal herbs that lead to a refined palate. The tannins, though slightly drier and warmer, provide structure to the sweet cherry nuances. This wine balances restraint with warmth, showcasing a harmonious blend of fruit and herbal complexity. This is a true gem of the vintage!
Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Earthy and rustic, with notes of reduced yeast, gunpowder, and leather giving way to a savory and mineral-driven palate. The texture is lean yet energetic, revealing a saline backbone. Though slightly austere, the wine’s depth promises significant development over time.
Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Dark and brooding, with aromas of black fruit, sandalwood, and juniper. On the palate, it exhibits a firm structure with notes of blackberries and a subtle chestnut skin dryness that adds complexity. While currently tight, it has the potential to soften with time, revealing more finesse.
Caparzo Vigna La Casa Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Notes of violets combine with hints of scorched earth and a fresher red fruit profile. A wine that captures its terroir beautifully, with tannins that frame the vibrant fruit. A slightly smoky finish adds intrigue to its otherwise elegant expression.
Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2020
This wine vibrates with energy, delivering a vivid mix of reed grass, anchovy, violets, and fresh cherries. Its bright acidity and tangy orange peel notes provide freshness, while its mineral core ensures a long and luminous finish. A stunning, lively interpretation.
Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Light in structure but with a beguiling elegance, this wine is still evolving and will reward patience. Notes of subtle wood influence underscore the delicate balance between red fruit and herbal aromatics. Best enjoyed after further aging to reveal its full potential.
Ciacci Piccolomini Pianrosso Brunello di Montalcino 2020
A wild and slightly untamed wine, with aromas of anchovy, sage, and ripe fruit. While slightly disjointed, its sweet and savoury elements create a compelling complexity. The tannins provide grip, leading to a finish that leaves a lasting impression.
Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Overflowing with seductive aromas of violets and quinine, this wine offers an impeccably balanced interpretation of the vintage. Rich and extractive, yet velvety and harmonious, it delivers depth and power with an elegant lift. A stellar achievement.
Gianni Brunelli Le Chiuse di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Ethereal and captivating, this wine exudes delicate umeboshi plum notes alongside a saline freshness. Its elegance is unmatched, with a silky texture that supports its aromatic complexity. A masterpiece of refinement and poise.
Giodo Brunello di Montalcino 2020
A Pinot Noir-inspired delicacy, this wine is a study in subtlety. Sweet red fruit flavours mingle with hints of liquorice root and herbal nuances like sage. Its lightness is deceptive, as it delivers a profound depth with saline contrasts and a luminous floral lift. A unique interpretation that radiates elegance and purity.
Paradiso di Manfredi Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Captivatingly aromatic with notes of orange peel, wild mint, and briny capers, this wine strikes a balance between sweet and salty tannins. Juicy and bright on the palate, it exudes Mediterranean charm with a layered, succulent finish that promises longevity.
Le Ripi Cielo di Ulisse Brunello di Montalcino 2020
A deeply extractive and richly-textured wine, showcasing ripe red fruits layered with earthy undertones. The tannins are finely grained, offering structure and depth. A vibrant and expressive interpretation with energy to spare.
Tiezzi Soccorso Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Juicy and multifaceted, this wine impresses with its saline backbone and layered complexity. The palate offers a slightly drying texture, leading to a taut finish which emphasises its minerality. While restrained now, it promises an evolution worth waiting for.
Talenti Piero Brunello di Montalcino 2020
A Mediterranean mosaic of candied orange, pomegranate, and sour cherries. The fruit-forward palate is complemented by a savory minerality, creating a harmonious interplay between freshness and depth. A precise and vibrant wine that captures the essence of the vintage.
Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Deliciously approachable, with sweet red fruit aromas and a simple yet satisfying finish. This is a classic Brunello for wide enjoyment, offering balance and a touch of sweetness that appeals to a broad audience.
Casacce di Franceschi Brunello di Montalcino 2020
An evergreen classic in the making, this wine boasts a dynamic bouquet of Mediterranean herbs, balsamic notes, and fresh gentian. Its crunchy red fruit is underscored by a profound, expansive character, promising incredible aging potential and refinement.
San Polino Helichrysum Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Complex and multidimensional, with Mediterranean aromatics, wild red fruits, and a saline tension that ties it all together. A contemporary yet grounded expression of Brunello that feels intricately tied to its southern terroir.
Mastrojanni Vigna Loreto Brunello di Montalcino 2020
A perfumed vineyard expression, with earthy tones and intriguing woodsy undertones. The red fruit character is bright, with subtle herbal nuances and a textured, lingering finish that reflects its terroir’s unique identity.
San Guglielmo Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Sweet on the nose, but with a drying mid-palate that reveals its firm structure. The wine has impressive raw material, though it is still coming together. Time will refine its elements into a more cohesive and expressive whole.
Ridolfi Brunello di Montalcino 2020
A charmingly sweet and aromatic expression with a nostalgic nod to the legacy of Giulio Gambelli. Notes of rosehip, red berries, and a delicate floral undertone lend this wine an almost romantic quality. While slightly restrained, it offers a nuanced and captivating profile.
Poggio Antico Vigna ai Poggi Brunello di Montalcino 2020
A dark and precise wine, with cold spice aromas of cardamom and black pepper. The palate reveals striking minerality and a vibrant crunch, with remarkable depth and structure. A technical and impeccably executed wine that promises significant aging potential.
Pietroso Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Marked by a pronounced alcohol warmth on the nose, this wine reveals finely grained tannins and a striking saline finish. Built for aging, it’s a contemplative wine with hidden layers of amazingly well defined fruit, sweetness and complexity waiting to be discovered.
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino 2020
A quintessential expression of Mediterranean character, with sweet red fruits, wild herbs, and a touch of earthiness. The tannins are sweet and polished, framing the juicy palate and leading to a lingering, vibrant finish.
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