Château Beauséjour: entering a new era

The dramatic sale of Bordeaux Château Beauséjour in 2021 caused ripples in Bordeaux when it unfolded – two prestigious Bordeaux vineyards vying to buy the estate were pipped to the post at the eleventh hour by a last-minute bid, which kept the estate in the family hands while paving the way for a renaissance. Three years on, winemaker Joséphine Duffau-Lagarrosse speaks to Arabella Mileham about her ambitions for the estate, its revamped winery and the new era that is beckoning.

Speaking to the drinks business recently Joséphine Duffau-Lagarrosse, ninth generation of the Duffau-Lagarosse family who have farmed the estate since 1847, explains that buying back the family estate with investment from xxx has proved a huge opportunity…

Although the estate was family-owned and run by Duffau-Lagarrosse’s father as the estate manager, over time the ownership had become divided among multiple cousins, many of whom no longer living in the region (or even in France).  It was, she says, with considerable understatement, “hard to manage an estate with 32 owners” especially as the majority tended to view it as something that paid them a dividend at the end of the year, rather than being invested in the life of the estate, or in the wines themselves.

The family decision to sell up was therefore a “very difficult” one for Josephine, who she was not working at the estate at the time, her father who managed the estate and her sister who all lived in the Right Bank.

Philippe Cuvelier, owner of Clos Fourtet, and Stephanie de Boüard-Rivoal of Angelus emerged as the main rival, and it looked like the  It looked as though it would be sold to Cuvelier which would see the property continue to be managed by Nicolas Thienpont. However in a chance meeting with Prisca Courtin-Clarins who headed up her family’s investment holding, Clarins Investment Fund (yes, that Clarins), the determined Duffau-Lagarosse found a fellow business women and the two clicked.

“We are the same generation (today, she’s 36 and I’m 33) and it was a natural, quick connection, even though we’re from different worlds. I think we are quite similar on the term of character and personality,” Having taken her father and uncle to see the property, Prisca and the Courtin-Clarin family were sufficiently charmed and excited to invest, submitting  a new and ultimately successful offer. Duffau-Lagarosse, who herself reinvested the proceeds of the sale into the business, became a minority partner, as well as the  estate manager and winemaker. She also represents the commercial side of the business and has big plans to further enhance the already rising reputation of the estate.

As Mathew O’Connell of Bordeaux Index noted, the chateau has seen some great vintages over the last twenty years. “The 100-point RP vintages of 1990, 2009 and 2010 are always in demand but outside of these, the chateau remains somewhat under the radar,” he told db.

However, the change of ownership, the investments in a new vat room and the undoubted quality of the estate’s terroir – as well as Duffau-Lagarrosse’s vision – influenced by her Burgundian connections –  “promise an exciting future”, he noted.

At only 6.8ha, it is one of the smallest estate in Saint-Émilion, and “more Burgundy in size”, according to Duffau-Lagarrosse, who admits that it is the ethos of Burgundy that has most influenced her as a winemaker. (Having started her winemaking career in 2011, she has gained experience working in Napa, New Zealand, Burgundy, Mexico and Bordeaux).

“In Burgundy, there are no blends, so a very precise extraction is all you can do, you have fewer options to improve your wine. When they have only 20 hectolitres of Grand Cru, they have to be precise,” she explains.

And Château Beauséjour is already on the road to greater precision. This started with a small but carefully thought out restructure in the vineyard which saw half a hectare of Merlot replanted with Cabernet France.

“It’s difficult to restructure a vineyard when you are small, because if you take a parcel, it could be something like 20% of your area. So that means 20% of your production,” she says, but it was part of Duffau-Lagarrosse’s specific plan to rebalance the wines, changing the proportion of Cabernet Franc in the vineyard as well as the blend in order to maintain the wine’s pure aromas and balance. This has been particularly important in the face of global warming, to maintain the freshness, however she is keen to keep Cabernet Franc below a maximum of 35%.

“We want to rebalance the wine, as Merlot can be a bit too alcoholic and heavy – but if I do any more it will change the style of the wine and the soul of Beauséjour,” she explains.

There are also plans to change some of the root stocks . The average age of the vineyard is 50 years old, with vines planted by Duffau-Lagarrosse’s grandfather but at that stage, the rootstock was picked in order to  push the alcohol leve,, it was better to have rootstock with a lot if vigour but nowadays “we want more balanced production,” she says.

New winery

They are also changing the pruning regime little by little, but the biggest advance lies in the new winery, which has increased the number of concrete vats from 9 to 16. Although this does increase the volume by around 10%, it has been done primarily to increase the precision of the wines.

“Under my father and grandfather, we did more parcellaire selection, now we do inter-parcellaire selection,” she explains. “We have differences within the parcels and wanted to vinify them separately.”

Aesthetically, the new winery is “great”, she says – the landscape of the estate is etched across the vats themselves – while “technically, it’s amazing”.

“I love working with concrete, because of the purity and consistency of the temperature,” she explains.

The new generation of consumers expect wines to be more approachable at a younger age, while retaining the ability to age, providing a challenge for producers, but increasing the precision, attention to detail, deciding on  the  pick dates to , and balance of new oak …are enabling them to maintain a good pH, balance and freshness.

“It is a tricky balance, but we managed it with the 2022 and 23,” she said.

While 2022 was a “perfect vintage” with no disease pressure and a nice yield, the ’23 was more of a challenge, with a a lot of reflection on whether to green harvest or not and when to pick. It was, she notes, the longest-ever at the property,- nine days, compared to the average 4-5 days it normally takes. “We started in the morning, then we stopped, and then the day after, or two days after, we were picking again, but just few places”. This very precise picking enabled them to pick for optimal phenolic ripeness.

The 2024 however proved to be “the most challenging vintage” in Duffau-Lagarosse’s 12+ years experience, with frost, hail and mildew to contend with as well as a “weird growing season” that was hard to  predict. “It was difficult to understand – when is going to start, when he’s going to finish, when the veraizon start, or finish, really, it was weird growing season!”

Despite losing 35% in the vineyard on the back of these challenges, the team continued to follow a “drastic” berry selection process in order to get the very best from each parcel, meaning they lost a further 15-20% in terms of yield.

The average yield came out at around 23L/ ha, about 40-50% down, she said but made a very interesting vintage.

Long term vision

In the long term,  Duffau-Lagarosse hopes to push the quality through the increased precision in the winemaking. She has previously spoken about her ambition to see the winery aims to be classified as Class A (the next classification is expected in 2032, and Duffau-Lagarrosse is confident about the chateau’s potential to be promoted to classe A). However her ambition for the next 10 years is ” about more than classification”. The primary goal is to achieve high-level recognition in the wine industry and be included in the dream wine lists of connoisseurs, alongside wines such as La Tâche and Screaming Eagle.

“Our real ambition is to be the highest level – give me the dream wine list and I want us to be on it. It is very ambitious but we have everything to get on that list ”

 

 

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