Zero hero: Champagne Palmer launches La Réserve Nature

Champagne Palmer & Co’s new cuvée, La Réserve Nature, offers balance and complexity – and without the addition of any dosage.

Xavier Berdin, cellar master of Champagne Palmer & Co, describes the blend of La Réserve Nature, which consists of around 55% Chardonnay, with the remainder made up of Pinot Noir and Meunier, as a “perfect photograph of our vineyard”.

“Even if the Montagne de Reims is the kingdom of great Pinot Noir, there are two exceptional ‘islands’ in this ocean of Pinot Noirs, located on the east-facing slopes, oriented south/southeast,” he explains. “These are the premiers crus of Trépail and Villers-Marmery. These two gems of the Montagne de Reims, called ‘white pearls’, are well-sheltered from the west winds, and produce superb Chardonnays known for their concentration and structure.”

This selection of grapes is further supplemented by Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims grands crus of Mailly and Verzenay, as well as by Pinot Noir and Meunier from premiers crus Ludes, Rilly-la-Montagne and Chigny-les-Roses, and Pinot Noir from Les Riceys, alongside the addition of Chardonnay from the Côte de Sézanne.

“While cellar work, including blending, is essential, it begins with selecting parcels, grape varieties and winemaking methods,” Berdin explains. “The art of blending relies on a deep understanding of the vineyard.”

Around one-third of the blend consists of reserve wine – a decision which Berdin suggests symbolises the house’s belief in “continuity”. He adds: “La Réserve Nature is a wine that is truly, perpetually Palmer & Co. This recipe gives it a unique taste and remarkable consistency. Depending on the characteristics of the year, we select three or four different years, according to the profile we want to achieve. It must have a timeless, recognisable and unforgettable signature.”

Another crucial decision that Berdin took for La Réserve Nature was the omission of dosage: “Even though this wine is made without dosage, tasting it blind, you wouldn’t suspect it, as it lacks absolutely nothing. The reason is that, initially, the idea of La Réserve Nature had nothing to do with creating a wine with less sugar, but rather one with more longevity and flavour.

“When we experimented with dosage, we found that the more sugar we added, the more it masked the softer aromas we wanted to achieve. In fact, to fully savour these aromas, in terms of flavour balance, we found that the amount of sugar to add was ‘naturally’ zero.”

The Champagne spent six years ageing on its lees in Palmer ’s cellars, dug into the chalk more than 200 years ago, providing consistently cool temperatures.

“These conditions allow the bottles to age slowly and evenly, encouraging the development of the Champagne’s aromas and complexity,” Berdin says. “Champagne cellars embody a unique expertise and a rich heritage that contributes to the global reputation of this prestigious wine.”

Berdin says the decision to opt for six years on the lees was all about “finding the balance”, adding: “By extending the time spent on the lees by a couple of years (six years instead of four), the wine revealed delicious notes of brioche, fruitcake, chocolate and toasted almonds. This wine was found to have exceptional capacity to evolve in flavour over time.”

While this aromatic complexity means that La Réserve Nature can be fully enjoyed on its own, Berdin suggests that it has the capacity to pair with everything from seafood to cheese, to spicy dishes and Burgundian-style escargots.

To find out more, visit: champagnepalmer.fr