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Weingut Günther Steinmetz announces first release on La Place

15 October 2024 By Colin Hay

The autumn campaign on La Place promises to go out with a little bit of a bang, with a mid-October Riesling week of first releases, which will see the first release of Mosel estate of Weingut Günther Steinmetz.

Weingut Günther Steinmetz, which is perhaps lesser known than neighbours Schloss Johannisberg and Ernst Loosen, whose arrival on la place we announced in July, produces wines characterized by a remarkable purity and finesse, well known to long-stand Mosel connoisseurs.

The two wines in question are the Wintricher Geierslay Kabinett and the Piesporter Treppchen GG (Grosses Gewächs – or Grand Cru), both from the 2023 vintage. They will be offered through la place de Bordeaux by a négociant pool of Barrirère Frères, Compagnie Médocaine des Grands Crus, Crus et Domaines de France, CVBG, Ulysse Cazabonne, Yvon Mau Grand Crus and Twins, represented by the architect of Riesling Week, Bureau des Grands Vins.

Located in the heart of Germany’s Mosel region, Weingut Günther Steinmetz has been crafting terroir-driven wines for generations. It is a family-run estate dedicated to sustainable viticulture, crafting wines that reflect the authenticity and precision of the best of Mosel winemaking today. It has a long-standing tradition of producing Rieslings that capture the unique characteristics of its historic vineyards. These new releases are no exception.

The Wintricher Geierslay Kabinett hails from the steep, slate soils of its iconic vineyard and is made in the increasingly sought-after Kabinett style. It showcases bright acidity and vibrant fruit, balanced by subtle sweetness and distinctive minerality. It is a wine with energy and finesse, likely to please both enthusiasts and collectors alike.

The Piesporter Treppchen GG comes, as the ‘GG’ designation suggests, from the hallowed Grosses Gewächs (Grand Cru) vineyard of Piesporter Treppche. This is a strikingly powerful and complex wine, an expression of Weingut Günther Steinmetz’s commitment to quality. Rich in texture with layers of ripe fruit and sharp mineral undertones, the wine delivers a long, structured finish, expressing so eloquently the true potential of this exceptional site.

Working in partnership with Bureau des Grands Vins, these wines will be offered through la place de Bordeaux from the 22^nd of October 2024, offering wine lovers an opportunity to explore the depth and diversity of Mosel Rieslings. Each bottle is a reflection of the estate’s philosophy: to express the purity and character of unique terroirs through meticulous craftsmanship and respect for nature.

Tasting notes

(tasted first in Bordeaux in July and re-tasted in Paris in September)

Weingut Gunther Steinmetz Wintricher Geierslay Kabinett 2023 (Mosel; 100% Riesling; 7.5% alcohol). Very much a rising star of the Mosel. A new Markus Molitor? A brilliant and highly distinctive wine, and simply incredible value for money when you consider that this is one of the cheapest wines offered on la place this year. Very clean. Fascinating. Ultra-fresh, ultra-pure and captivatingly complex on the nose – with whetstone, lime, greengage, green tea and fennel seed all immediately vying for attention. Lovely texturally and surprising in both its richness (which you don’t quite expect from the aromatics) and the residual sugar (ditto). Great tension – not least between the vertical lift provided by the searing fresh acidity and the horizontal refocussing on the palate that comes with the richness, reinforced by the touch of sucrosity. The salinity brings additional seasoning. Apricot and apricot skin, quince, lime and that subtle green tea note again. Lovely acidity and lift. Lemon sorbet, too, and hint of fleur d’oranger as the freshness re-establishes itself on the finish. A Kracher of a wine (the first time you taste it, it’s a revelation). 96.

Weingut Gunther Steinmetz Piesporter Treppchen Grosses Gewächs 2023 (Mosel; 100% Riesling; 12.5% alcohol). From an incredibly steep sloping terraced vineyard of old vines (now 90 years in age) on a silvery grey slate soil. Creamier and richer at first than the Wintricher Geierslay Kabinett but that make the tension even more remarkable. Apples and crab apples, quince and pear, with the same crystalline purity; flint and a hint of lemon balm, fennel fronds, but also a fascinating note of salted butter melting on popcorn. Rhubarb! Hyper-mineral. Hyper-pure and incredibly zesty on the palate. Crushed slate. Very fresh, almost strict but with incredible purity and pixilation, with the acidity playing a role equivalent to the tannins in a crumbly-textured limestone-terroir young St Emilion for instance. Like the Kabinett, very long on the finish. Fabulous in its potential but needing plenty of patience. 97.