Does Texas have fine wine potential?

One local group is going all out to raise the profile of fine wine from this southern state, writes LM Archer.

Back in 2014, a burgeoning Texas wine industry struggled to define itself. However, four scrappy Texas Hill Country wineries viewed their futures clearly.

Together, Bending Branch Winery, Duchman Family Winery, Pedernales Cellars, and Spicewood Vineyards formed Texas Fine Wine, a small group with a big goal: elevating Texas terroir worldwide.

“Texas Fine Wine is a critical component of the Texas wine industry, as it helps spread consumer and trade education and knowledge,” says Tommy Wellford, Duchman Family Winery general manager. Drs. Lisa and Stan Duchman founded the winery in 2004 in Driftwood, Tex., near Austin.

“Our mission statement declares our support for Texas agriculture and our grape growers, which is unquestionably so important to our ability to make best-in-class, award-winning wines,” says Wellford. “We are able to promote the top tiers of the Texas wine industries, our AVA’s, and what distinguishes our wines.”

Promotions typically include national and international trade tastings, winemaker dinners, and educational seminars.

“Texas Fine Wine is important because it allows four of the highest quality wine producers in the state to join together in marketing, to generate awareness of the quality that can be achieved in Texas,” adds veteran winemaker Dave Reilly of Duchman Family Winery. The winery produces about 20,000 cases annually, distributed to retailers like HEB and Whole Foods.

Smaller members benefit, too. “For a smaller winery like Spicewood Vineyards that is not in distribution, Texas Fine Wine has been a critical part of our marketing efforts to tell our story, and reach those channels of influence,” says seventh-generation Texan Ron Yates, who purchased Spicewood Vineyards in 2007.

While a cohesive bunch, members do vary on grape variety preferences. For example, Duchman Family Winery focuses on Italian varieties. Conversely, Spicewood Vineyards prefers Spanish varieties like Tempranillo.

Tannat rules the roost at Bending Branch Winery, earning it the moniker “The Tannat House of Texas.” Founded in 2009 by Dr. Bob and Brenda Young in Comfort, Tex., Bending Branch also claims fame for technological advances like cryo-maceration and flash détente.

Meanwhile, Pedernales Cellars in Stonewall, Tex. concentrates on Spanish and Rhone varietals. Co-founded by CEO Julie Kuhlken and brother David in 2006, ‘Pedernales’ nods to the Spanish word for flint, and to the Pedernales River winding throughout Texas Hill Country. (Their pioneering parents Larry and Jeanine Kuhlken planted Kuhlken Vineyards near Fredericksburg in the early 1990’s.)

Sustainability

In their quest for quality, Texas Fine Wine members adopted sustainability long before current wine industry efforts. “From the very beginning, Pedernales Cellars has been a champion of maximising the sustainability of our operations, starting with the geothermal cooling system that we installed when we first built the production facility,” says sixth-generation Kuhlken.

“As our operation has matured, we have been able to integrate more and more environmental considerations into our way of doing things, because sustainability is all about continuous improvement.”

Concerned about packaging, Duchman Family Wines offers wines in reusable containers. “In terms of sustainability, we focus on recycling and minimum discharge,” says Wellford. “By simply using reusable growlers and our keg programme, we can ensure waste is at its bare bones.”

Spicewood Vineyards cites vineyard practices. “In terms of sustainability, we have been dealing with freak frosts, late spring freezes and summer heat domes for years,” says Yates. “At Spicewood Vineyards, we employ vineyard practices to help protect and nourish our vines through these conditions – from netting the vineyard to prevent hail damage to wider vine spacing, leaf pulling and higher fruiting zones to encourage more air flow, reduce sun reflection off the ground and support cooler nighttime temperatures.”

Climate change weather variables also informs future vineyard acquisition and planting goals.

“Given these unforgiving climate challenges, we continue to look for and invest in vineyards in different locations throughout the state – many of which are at higher elevations (3,000-4,000 feet), with significant diurnal shifts or protected from cold air by mountain ranges,” says Yates.

Lifting a Community

In 2020, Bending Branch Winery received the Grand Champion award in the Texas Sustainable Winegrowing Competition at Fort Worth Stock Show & Rodeo/BRIT for their extensive sustainability initiatives.

“Sustainability has been part of Bending Branch since its beginning, and plans for further progress continue,” says Dr. Bob Young, Bending Branch Winery co-owner and executive winemaker.

President Alison Young, a LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Accredited Professional with a masters degree in environmental management, advises on the winery’s social, economic, and environmental efforts.

Socially, Bending Branch invests in generous employee benefits like health insurance, pension plans, professional education, and ongoing sustainability, winemaking, vineyard management, finance, marketing, and sales training.

Furthermore, Dr. Bob and wife Brenda donate to the local community, and host charitable events benefitting Parkinson’s Research and other causes.

The pair also created an endowment through Texas A&M University, the Phillip Young Foundation Excellence Award, honouring their son. The annual scholarships target  underserved and culturally diverse students wishing to work in the Texas wine industry by pursuing degrees in viticulture or oenology.

Lifting an Industry

After ten years, Texas Fine Wine’s camaraderie, can-do spirit, and commitment to sustainability prove a formidable combination, benefitting not just the wineries, but the entire Texas wine industry.

“The 10 years of collaboration have included a significant investment in public relations strategy and marketing,” concludes Jennifer Cernosek, general manager at Bending Branch Winery. “This investment has lifted the entire industry, bringing heightened national recognition to Texas wine.”

 

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