News

Wine List Confidential: The Unruly Pig

10 September 2024 By Douglas Blyde

Douglas Blyde heads out east to visit a famous Suffolk gastropub. Will it prove to be an East Anglian haven for wine lovers, or have they made a pig’s ear of the pairings?

True to its name, The Unruly Pig greets you with playful irreverence, starting with the bronze pig’s derrière behind the bar, as noted by the Good Food Guide. Meanwhile, Michelin points out that despite the cheeky name, the venue is “far from unruly, thanks to its former lawyer owner.” William Sitwell of The Telegraph hailed it as “a standard-bearer for the new normal,” applauding its “seriously good, unfussy food,” impeccable service, and a keen understanding of what modern hospitality should be. “This place,” he declared, “is why hospitality must be saved.”

Restaurant magazine took things even further, bestowing the title of “best gastropub in the UK” upon The Unruly Pig – twice. Even the usually reserved Good Food Guide couldn’t resist acknowledging the “notable” Europe-leaning wine list – a rare outpour from a publication typically as tight-lipped about drinks as a lawyer on the witness stand.

Design

Formerly The British Larder, where Jay Rayner infamously encountered a chocolate fudge cake which audaciously resembled “more of an overcooked fondant” with tasteless cubes of caramelised white-chocolate jelly, the sixteenth-century warren that is now The Unruly Pig, brims with character. Its gnawed-looking beams, which appear to have withstood centuries of revelry, frame spaces like the Wild Boar private dining room. These are adorned with a delightful miscellany of art chosen by owner, Brendan Padfield, who believes “the job of art is to provoke”. Among his collection are pieces from his Suffolk-based gallerist friend, Belinda Gray MBE, the unstoppable founder of the breast cancer research charity, Art for Cure.

Upon entering, you’re greeted by whimsical Lego portraits by local artist John Frith, including one of a chef, flanked by shelves of wine. Further in, a playful reimagining of The Last Supper starring The Sopranos, lit by an Anglepoise lamp, catches the eye, alongside a poignant painting of two weary commuters captured from the mezzanine at Liverpool Street Station. Padfield chose this piece as a “constant reminder” of the countless commutes from his previous legal career. But now, having traded legal briefs for beef briskets, he hasn’t looked back, proving that the leap from courtroom to kitchen can be as seamless as a well-aged Bordeaux.

Drinks

Handpicked by Padfield, whose zeal for wine leads him to sample prospective bottles with esteemed suppliers like Lay and Wheeler, and Adnam’s, the wine list spans a dozen countries – from Austria to New Zealand, with intriguing detours through Georgia, Greece, and Romania. The journey begins close to home with Dorset’s Langham estate, introducing the 60-strong by-the-glass selection with their rosé, priced at £15 for a 125ml pour. Still wines range from the unpretentious Colombard by the proud paysans of the Plaimont cooperative in Gascony (£7.50/175ml) to a mysterious (unnamed) 2017 Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico from Veneto (£27). Along the way, you’ll discover gems like Vachnadziani Winery’s Krakhuna from Georgia (£10), and the cult-favourite Domaine Rolly Gassmann Riesling 2021 from Alsace (£15.50), celebrated by Cambridge Wine Merchants as “small masterpieces with excellent definition.”

Only three bottles are reserved exclusively for those ready to commit to a full bottle, including Château Batailley 2016 at £118, and Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes at £125, both offered with a most equitable £40 mark-up. The priciest bottle on the latest list we were sent on request, the David Moret Puligny-Montrachet 2022 (£135), feels almost too modest for the venue’s ambience – raising the question of whether a few more extravagant options might tempt guests to indulge in something rarer and perhaps a touch older. Of course, this would also require upgrading the top-end glassware to match the experience.

In addition to a handful of sweet wines, including a Moscato d’Asti from an unnamed producer, guests can indulge in dessert cocktails, such as the “Bakewell Tart” – because who says you can’t have your cake and drink it too? And on draught, the local Aspall cyder offers a crisp, refreshing option. However, the whisky and brandy selection could use a bit of a glow-up.

Dishes

The 10-strong kitchen team is led by the self-billed “Dynamic Duo”, chefs Dave Wall (formerly of Boxwood Café, Claridge’s, and Le Talbooth) and Karl Green (Hintlesham Hall, The Crown, Stoke-by-Nayland, and Midsummer House). They source their ingredients from a who’s who of local suppliers, including Pinneys of Orford and Rick the Fish for seafood, and Rendlesham Forest for game. Even “Our Lin,” who lives down the road, deals in organic vegetables, tomatoes, and soft fruits. And let’s not forget “Buffy,” who contributes quinces from her garden.

Armed with Studio William cutlery, dinner began with a “snack” of fried Mersea Island oyster with dill emulsion, a surprisingly successful smoked cucumber, and a generous helping of n25 Heritage caviar – all for the modest price of £5.50. However, the crostino of whipped lardo di Colonnata with pickled walnut gel fell flat, tasting more like posh mayonnaise. These opening bites were paired with Langham’s Culver, a low-dosage sparkler with broad shoulders, nutty, oxidative, oaken notes – just one example of the close bond between The Unruly Pig and this Dorset producer, as evidenced by the coffee table book on the vineyard’s tales for guests to peruse.

Puerto Rican-born assistant manager, Bianca Bradley-Kidd (formerly of Coworth Park, and Marriott at Grosvenor Square) aptly described the dish as one that “messes with your mind,” featuring very firm, homemade black ink soppressini pasta cups, cleverly minced cuttlefish, rich shellfish stock, fresh gremolata, and shavings of three-year-old Parmesan.

Noting Padfield’s self-confessed addiction to risotto, we followed on with a rabbit risotto, prepared “osso bucco” style according to Bradley-Kidd, with sweetcorn kernels, purée, long-lasting shredded corn leaves, shards of pancetta, chive oil, thyme, and more of that glorious three-year-aged Parmesan, all framed by black garlic gel. The dish was a riot of flavours which even the accompanying Enzo Boglietti Piedmontese Nebbiolo struggled to conquer. Given its richness and generous portion, it was no surprise when Bradley-Kidd cheerfully described the kitchen as “a kitchen of feeders.” A side of cabbage, with its sharp vinegar kick and hint of chilli, provided the perfect counterbalance.

We ended on a high note with the dish of the evening: a Madagascan vanilla-scented strawberry semifreddo, accompanied by white chocolate (with delightful Aero-like fragments) and elderflower. The only regret? The accompanying wine wasn’t introduced – a minor slip.

Last word

On this warm summer evening, the savoury dishes often leant a bit too heavily on richness, with seasoning teetering on the brink of thirst-inducing boldness. It seems the tightrope walk of pleasing locals who’ve grumbled about small portions on review sites, while still holding onto the crown of the UK’s Best Gastropub, might have led the culinary team to try harder than a method actor in a pantomime. Allowing the top-quality ingredients to shine, with a lighter touch on the butter, salt, and gels, would elevate The Unruly Pig to an irresistible repeat destination.

And while the food suppliers all receive their due mention, it’s curious that not every wine producer has made it onto the wine list.

Meeting the ever-charming restaurateur and raconteur Padfield was an absolute pleasure, nevertheless. His stories alone could fill a book. And now that planning permission is in hand, we eagerly await the much-needed on-site bedrooms, which would not only provide more space for guests, but more walls to showcase his entertaining art collection, too.