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Unfiltered: Lorenzo Tili, The Goring

03 September 2024 By Douglas Blyde

The head sommelier of The Goring talks to Douglas Blyde about his early olfactory talents, the wine he could live without, and an ambition to write for Michelin.

What has been a highlight from your vintage?

The standout bottle from 1983 would be Château Mouton Rothschild, which we are fortunate to have on our list. It truly represents an extraordinary exception to the more ordinary trends of that vintage, even among other prestigious wines from the region.

From where does your interest in wine stem?

My fascination with wine began while working in Italy as a chef de rang. I was always intrigued by what the sommelier was doing, eager to see which bottle he would open next. When he moved on, I gradually took over the wine service, sparking my studies on the subject. From that moment, I was captivated, and my journey into the world of wine never stopped.

How did you discover The Goring?

Quite serendipitously, I happened upon this “small” hotel – a true architectural gem, proudly flying the Union Jack, with its bright windows overlooking Victoria Square. I was job hunting at the time, so, in a good old-fashioned way, I stepped inside and asked if they needed a sommelier. As luck had it, they did, and three years on, I’m still here.

What makes the venue so special?

What sets this hotel apart is its quintessentially British character and the fact that it remains family-owned. Additionally, the warmth and camaraderie of the people who work here create a welcoming and supportive atmosphere.

What should diners drink more of?

Considering the array of flavours they can develop and their huge ageing capability, German Rieslings still haven’t reached the level of recognition they deserve.

And which wine could you happily live without?

Malbec. I know it’s one of the best-sellers in the UK, but it’s not my cup of tea. That said, maybe I could make an exception for Cheval des Andes.

How is the hotel investing in the future, wine-wise?

We have a dedicated en primeur programme which focuses on acquiring the latest vintages of some of the world’s finest wines. These are carefully stored in our cellars, where they can age undisturbed until we deem them ready to be enjoyed and added to our list. This approach not only allows us to offer these exceptional wines at more accessible prices compared to other high-end London restaurants, but it also serves as a lasting legacy for the hotel and future generations of guests.

What has been an embarrassing service mistake?

Before I became a sommelier, I attempted my first decantation after having only seen it done once. Unfortunately, I ended up pouring a bit more sediment than I had anticipated.

What are your finest pours via Coravin?

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2012 from Domaine Rollin-Père et Fils, as a white, and Hermitage “Les Miaux” 2021 from Ferraton Père & Fils, as a red.

What does head chef, Graham Squire, enjoy drinking?

Chef Graham is usually quite easy going when it comes to wine, though I’ve never seen him as delighted as when sipping a red Burgundy.

What is the finest table in the house?

The chef’s counter certainly has its allure, providing a front-row seat to the action in our newly refurbished kitchen. However, for me, the best table will always be the one by the fireplace – it’s simply unmatched.

Who has been your mentor?

While I consider myself largely self-taught, if I had to name someone, it would be Sandro Camilli, the President of AIS – the Italian Sommelier Association. He was always available to support and guide me during my wine studies in Italy.

What has been a recent standout vineyard visit?

Right in the heart of the Stonor Valley, where the peace of the English countryside meets growing conditions similar to the celebrated Champagne, I found Chardonnay and Pinot Noir thriving at Hundred Hills’ deep chalk amphitheatre. The quality of the wines was only exceeded by the hospitality of the team which provided thoughtful explanations of the winemaking process, a fine tasting, and a delicious lunch based on local produce. If you consider that the refined umbrellas used to shelter us from the inevitable drizzle were the result of a collaboration with the side business of a famous champagne house, you would understand that nothing was left to chance.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

When I was in primary school, I had a knack for identifying what my grandmother had prepared for lunch just by catching a whiff of the aromas from the kitchen. Remarkably, I could do this from the bottom of the stairs on the ground floor, while the kitchen was all the way up on the second floor. Looking back, it seems like it was destined that I would use my nose in my career!

What are your ambitions when it comes to writing?

As a qualified “Degustatore” AIS (Wine Taster for the Italian Sommelier Association), I aspire to review wines for magazines and wine guides, as well as write about the rich oenological heritage of various regions and their wineries. Another dream of mine is to review restaurants for the Michelin Guide.

If you could have a superpower, what would it be?

I’d love to bring back that bottle of Granato Foradori 1996 which my parents “accidentally” drank from my collection – or so they claim! It was a special gift from someone dear to me, and an exceptional Teroldego.