Patrick Schmitt MW: Does the wine industry lack innovation? I think not.

Wine’s agricultural origins may slow down product development, but the category is alive with invention, Patrick Schmitt MW argues.

I’d have an enviable collection of cru classé claret if someone had slipped me a first growth every time I came across the phrase ‘the wine industry lacks innovation’.

It’s such a common observation, or rather, criticism, that it’s become an accepted explanation for pretty much any failing in the wine business.

But is it true? I think not. Wine’s agricultural origins may slow down product development, but the category is alive with invention. That I can say with some authority after a few findings from this past month, which are featured in this edition. The first of these concerns a major tasting of new releases from Chile.

A country once unfairly branded as boring, there’s so much experimentation taking place in this skinny strip of land that it’s now the epitome of vinous excitement and creativity. Chile is currently the source of fine varietal Albariño and Cabernet Franc, among so much else that’s far removed from the country’s usual offer in white and red: Sauvignon Blanc or Bordeaux blends. And there are few other wine-producing places worldwide where you’ll find your vines inaccessible because a sea lion has sunk your boat. The novelties from extreme viticulture are myriad in Chile.

Orange wine

But I’m also keen to rebut the accusation of an uncreative wine industry having chaired our inaugural Global Orange Wine Masters. This is a fast-expanding and improving category that is rife with change, particularly from the Languedoc’s Gérard Bertrand. Indeed, he has crafted the world’s first amber-coloured icon: the almost-£200-a-bottle Villa Soleilla. It’s an absolutely delicious drink, with the beautiful hue of a perfect sunset and, he says, the only wine that goes with every type of cheese.

His now extensive range of orange wines, which include a couple of much more affordable options, is, Bertrand also records, bringing Generation Z into wine, along with bartenders who like to mix the brightly-coloured drink. So much for thinking this niche, ancient wine style is only being resurrected for somms and geeks.

Alcohol-free

And on the subject of innovation for younger consumers, let’s not overlook the alcohol-free wine sector. According to the man behind Kylie Minogue Wines, Paul Schaafsma, zero-ABV wine is a major growth area.

New and better products will bring about its expansion, he assures, as well as one “huge, huge celebrity”. When this person, who can’t be revealed just yet, does enter the sector, he promises that “they will change the business”.

So, the next time someone blames wine’s woes on a dearth of original developments, please mention the sector’s new frontiers, novel offerings, no-alcohol products and celebrity-backed brands. Then you can confidently say that the wine business doesn’t lack innovation. Or, you might want to go further, and tell them that it’s the most dynamic sector in drinks.

You can read all about Chile’s innovations in the latest issue of the drinks business here. 

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