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La Place’s hors Bordeaux campaign: the scores are in!
With the runners and riders of La Place’s hors Bordeaux campaign standing in the slips rearing to go, db’s Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay gives his evaluation of the red wines that make up this autumn’s international campaign.
Italian Reds
Italy brings a stunning and very consistent set of releases to La Place this year. The stars, for me, are the monocépage Merlot wines – Masseto, of course, but also Petrolo’s Galatrona, La Massa’s Giorgio Primo, Tenuta Sette Ponti’s Sette and Bibi Graetz’s Balocchi No. 9.
Solaia, Siepi (appropriately in its 30th anniversary release), Colore and the rest of the Balocchi series from Bibi Graetz are other standouts and there is great value to be found in Giovanni Rosso’s wines from both Sicily and Barolo, and in Petrolo’s Torrione and Bòggina A and C.
| Italian releases (red) | Vintage | Region | New? | Rating |
| Etna Rosso (Giovanni Rosso) | 2021 | Sicily | No | 93 |
| Barolo Cerretta (Giovanni Rosso) | 2020 | Piedmont | No | 95 |
| Barolo Bussia Riserva ‘Oro’ Vigne Munie (Parusso) | 2015 | Piedmont | No | 93 |
| Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga (Marchese di Grésy) | 2005 | Piedmont | No | NYT |
| Barbaresco Camp Gros Martinenga Riserva (Marchese di Grésy) | 2005 | Piedmont | No | NYT |
| Caiarossa | 2021 | Tuscany | No | 95+ |
| Concerto di Fonterutoli | 2022 | Tuscany | No | 94 |
| Passi di Orma | 2022 | Tuscany | No | 90 |
| Orma | 2022 | Toscana | No | 97 |
| Oreno (Tenuta Sette Ponti) | 2022 | Tuscany | No | 95 |
| Siepi (Castello di Fonterutoli) | 2022 | Tuscany | No | 98 |
| Sette (Tenuta Sette Ponti) | 2022 | Tuscany | No | 97+ |
| Torrione Petrolo | 2022 | Tuscany | No | 93 |
| Bòggina A Petrolo | 2022 | Tuscany | Yes | 95 |
| Bòggina C Riserva Petrolo | 2021 | Tuscany | No | 96 |
| Petrolo Galatrona | 2022 | Tuscany | No | 99 |
| Giorgio Primo (La Massa) | 2020 | Tuscany | No | 98+ |
| Solaia | 2021 | Tuscany | No | 98 |
| Massetino | 2022 | Tuscany | No | 96 |
| Masseto | 2021 | Tuscany | No | 99 |
| Testamatta (Bibi Graetz) | 2022 | Tuscany | No | 96 |
| Colore (Bibi Graetz) | 2022 | Tuscany | No | 98 |
| Balocchi No. 3 (Bibi Graetz) Colorino | 2021 | Tuscany | No | 95+ |
| Balocchi No. 7 (Bibi Graetz) Cabernet Franc* | 2021 | Tuscany | Yes | 98 |
| Balocchi No. 8 (Bibi Graetz) Canaiolo | 2021 | Tuscany | No | 96 |
| Balocchi No. 9 (Bibi Graetz) Merlot | 2021 | Tuscany | Yes | 98 |
| Balocchi No. 10 (Bibi Graetz) Cabernet Sauvignon | 2021 | Tuscany | Yes | 99 |
| [* – an exclusivity of Berry Bros. & Rudd] | ||||
For full tasting notes, see here.
Spanish Reds
Spain brings another very consistent set of releases to la place. Indeed, a case can be made for any of these wines. But the standouts for me are Yjar and Matallana (from Telmo Rodríguez), VivaltuS (the fruit of Jean-Claude Berrouet and Montxo Martínez’s partnership) and Marqués de Riscal’s Tapias.
| Spanish releases (red) | Vintage | Region | New? | Rating |
| La Fleur VivaltuS | 2019 | Ribera del Duero | No | 93 |
| VivaltuS | 2019 | Ribera del Duero | No | 97 |
| Dolio | 2020 | Ribeira Sacra | No | 94+ |
| Matallana | 2021 | Ribera del Duero | No | 97 |
| Yjar | 2020 | Rioja | No | 97 |
| Tapias de Marqués de Riscal | 2021 | Rioja | No | 97 |
| CVNE Real de Asùa Carromaza | 2021 | Rioja Alta | No | 95 |
For full tasting notes, see here.
US reds
Given the iconic status of many of these wines – established icons like Opus One, Vérité and Inglenook and icons in the process of becoming established, like Favia, Morlet, Peter Michael and Pym Rae – it is perhaps unsurprising that many of the superstars of the autumn collection come from the US.
And given the sheer number and diversity of the wines on offer here – from Ernst Loosen’s sublime Oregon Pinot Noir (Appassionata Fortissimo) to L’Aventure’s Pasa Robles ‘Rhone’ blend (Côte à Côte) – it is difficult and probably unfair to pick out highlights. But if I force myself to do so it is difficult to look past the two wines that, by their scores alone, place them above all of the September releases – Morlet’s exceptional Coeur de Vallée and Paul Hobbs’ beguiling Cristina’s Signature.
Peter Michael’s Les Pavots and Vérité’s Le Désir (which I really need to re-taste from better stemware) both come very close to perfection too. I was also deeply impressed by all that I tasted from Inglenook and Favia and I have never tasted better from Pym Rae or Beaulieu.
| Oregon releases | Vintage | Region | 1st release? | Rating |
| *Appassionata Fortissimo (Ernst Loosen) | 2013 | Oregon | No | 97+ |
| Californian releases | Vintage | Region | 1st release? | Rating |
| Morlet Coeur de Vallée | 2021 | Napa | No | 100 |
| Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon | 2021 | Napa | No | 97 |
| Inglenook Rubicon | 2021 | Napa | No | 98 |
| Chappellet Signature Cabernet Sauvignon | 2021 | Napa | No | 96 |
| Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon | 2021 | Napa | No | 98 |
| Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour | 2021 | Napa | No | 97+ |
| Paul Hobbs Cristina’s Signature | 2021 | Napa | No | 100 |
| Quintessa | 2021 | Napa | No | 97 |
| Cardinale Estate Wine | 2021 | Napa | No | NYT |
| Favia Coombsville | 2021 | Napa | No | 98 |
| Favia Cerro Sur | 2021 | Napa | No | 97+ |
| Favia Oakville | 2021 | Napa | No | 97 |
| Overture | 2021 | Napa | No | NYT |
| Opus One | 2021 | Napa | No | NYT |
| Maya (Dalla Valle) | 2021 | Napa | No | 98 |
| Pym Rae (Tesseron Estate) | 2021 | Napa | No | 98 |
| Au Paradis (Peter Michael) | 2021 | Napa | No | 98 |
| Les Pavots (Peter Michael) | 2021 | Sonoma | No | 99 |
| Vérité La Joie | 2021 | Sonoma | No | 98 |
| Vérité La Muse | 2021 | Sonoma | No | 98 |
| Vérité Le Désir | 2021 | Sonoma | No | 99 |
| L’Aventure Optimus | 2021 | Pasa Robles | No | 95 |
| L’Aventure Côte à Côte | 2021 | Pasa Robles | No | 96+ |
| L’Aventure Estate Cuvée | 2021 | Pasa Robles | No | 97 |
For full tasting notes, see here.
Chile
This is a staggering set of releases – wines of great personality and individuality which speak so eloquently of their terroirs. It seems almost invidious to single out individual wines, but if I force myself to do so, I was perhaps most impressed by Clos Apalta and Viñedo Chadwick, very closely followed by Vigna Maquis (above all the new Franco release), Almaviva, Seña and VIK. But I’d happily make space in my cellar for any of these.
| Chilean releases | Vintage | Region | 1st release? | Rating |
| Rocas de Seña | 2022 | Aconcagua Valley | No | 93 |
| Seña | 2022 | Aconcagua Valley | No | 97 |
| Viñedo Chadwick | 2022 | Maipo Valley | No | 98 |
| EPU (Almaviva) | 2022 | Maipo Valley | No | 92 |
| Almaviva | 2022 | Maipo Valley | No | 97 |
| Santa Rita Casa Real | 2021 | Maipo Valley | No | 95+ |
| Montes Muse | 2021 | Maipo Valley | No | 96 |
| Clos Apalta Prélude | 2022 | Colchagua Valley | Yes | 93 |
| Le Petit Clos | 2021 | Colchagua Valley | No | 96 |
| Clos Apalta | 2021 | Colchagua Valley | No | 98 |
| Vigna Maquis Viola | 2020 | Colchagua Valley | No | 96 |
| Vigna Maquis Viola | 2014 | Colchagua Valley | No | 96+ |
| Vigna Maquis Franco | 2020 | Colchagua Valley | No | 97+ |
| Vigna Maquis Franco | 2014 | Colchagua Valley | No | 96 |
| VIK | 2021 | Cachapoal Valley | No | 97 |
For full tasting notes, see here.
Argentina
The number of Argentinian releases on la place may be limited, but the quality is exceptional. Cheval des Andes and Adrianna Vineyard’s Mundus Bacillus Terrae are both staggeringly impressive, but it is Viña Cobos’s Cobos Malbec that wowed me the most. I hope to taste La Violeta in the days to come and will update my tasting notes when I do.
| Argentine releases | Vintage | Region | 1st release? | Rating |
| Caro | 2022 | Mendoza | No | 95 |
| Nicolas Catena Zapata | 2021 | Mendoza | No | 95 |
| Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae | 2021 | Mendoza | No | 97 |
| Cheval des Andes | 2022 | Mendoza | No | 97 |
| Finca Canal Uco (Zuccardi) | 2021 | Mendoza | No | 96 |
| La Violeta (Bodegas Monteviejo) | 2015 | Mendoza | No | NYT |
| Cobos (Viña Cobos) | 2021 | Mendoza | No | 99 |
For full tasting notes see here.
French reds
It is good to see the enticing diversity of French wines now offered through la place. The stars are, of course, Domaine de la Chapelle’s Hermitage La Chapelle and Beaucastel’s legendary Hommage à Jacques Perrin, joined for the first time by Georges Vigouroux’s Château de Haute-Serre’s Grand Malbec from Cahors. But there is fabulous value to be had in the releases from Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s Domaine de Baronarques, Bouche du Roi, Odysée and Domaine Chapuis (whether at village, 1er cru or grand cru level).
| French releases (red) | Vintage | Region | New? | Rating |
| Domaine Chapuis Aloxe-Corton | 2022 | Burgundy | No | 90 |
| Domaine Chapuis Aloxe Corton 1er Cru | 2022 | Burgundy | No | 92 |
| Domaine Chapuis Savigny-Lès-Beaune | 2022 | Burgundy | No | 91 |
| Domaine Chapuis Corton-Languettes Grand Cru | 2022 | Burgundy | No | 94 |
| Domaine Chapuis Corton-Chaumes Grand Cru | 2022 | Burgundy | No | 95 |
| Domaine Chapuis Corton-Perrières Grand Cru | 2022 | Burgundy | No | 95+ |
| La Bouche du Roi Abondance | 2023 | île de France | No | 92+ |
| La Capitelle de Baronarques | 2022 | Occitanie* | No | 91 |
| Domaine de Baronarques | 2022 | Occitanie* | No | 94 |
| Chateau d’Aussières | 2020 | Occitanie* | No | 90 |
| Château de Haute-Serre Grand Malbec | 2022 | Occitanie* | Yes | 96 |
| Domaine de Terrebrune | 2021 | Provence | No | 91 |
| Odysée | 2021 | Rhone | No | 91 |
| Hermitage La Chapelle | 2022 | Rhone | No | 97 |
| CNDP Beaucastel Hommage à Jacques Perrin | 2022 | Rhone | No | 97 |
For full tasting notes, see here.
Australian reds
A brilliant and very consistent set of releases from some of Australia’s most iconic producers.
| Australian releases (red) | Vintage | Region | 1st release? | Rating |
| Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz | 2021 | Clare Valley | No | 96 |
| Cloudburst Cabernet Sauvignon | 2021 | Margaret River | No | 98 |
| Cloudburst Malbec | 2021 | Margaret River | No | 97 |
| Penfolds St Henri Shiraz | 2021 | S. Australia | No | 95 |
| Penfolds Bin 169 Cabernet Sauvignon | 2022 | Connawarra | No | 96 |
| Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon | 2022 | S. Australia | No | 96 |
| Penfolds Red Wine Trial Bin 798 Shiraz | 2022 | Barossa Valley | No | 96 |
| Penfolds Grange Shiraz | 2020 | S. Australia | No | 98+ |
| Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz | 2019 | Barossa Valley | No | 96 |
| Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz | 2009 | Barossa Valley | No | 96 |
| Wynns John Riddoch | 2021 | Coonawarra | No | 97 |
For full tasting notes, see here.
New Zealand
| New Zealand releases | Vintage | Region | 1st release? | Rating |
| Craggy Range Aroha Te Muna | 2022 | Martinsborough | No | 95 |
| Craggy Range Le Sol Gimblett Gravels | 2022 | Hawke’s Bay | No | 97 |
| Destiny Bay Magna Praemia | 2021 | Waiheke Island | Yes | 95 |
For full tasting notes, see here.
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