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Ekstedt at the Yard to host volcanic wine masterclasses
Acclaimed restaurant Ekstedt at The Yard will be hosting a series of unique sommelier-guided masterclasses covering volcanic wines.
Given that Niklas Ekstedt, the Swedish chef-patron of Ekstedt at The Yard inside the Great Scotland Yard hotel, has made a name for himself for his wood-fired cookery, it makes sense that his restaurant promotes wines that have risen from the ashes.
Head sommelier Klearhos Kanellakis is a vocal champion of volcanic wines, though he says that this is more than just soil-deep: “It’s not just the volcanic soil, but all the unique parameters of each region that give characteristic flavours to the wine, such as proximity to the sea, altitude, latitude, local varieties and very old vineyards. If I try to just say about the soils, I think they give mineral-salty flavours for the whites, and more earthy and gamey notes on the reds.”
“If you see pictures of the volcanic regions, you will realise how different the vineyards are compared to the ones from some classic areas,” he argues. “They give you a sense of wilderness – something out of the ordinary.”
Kanellakis says that wines from these regions often offer a clearer, more precise sense of their particular terroir: “Each of the regions also holds a unique story that I’m so happy to share with guests. The wines reflect their environment in the glass. It’s not about skilful winemaking, but more about allowing the wine to show where it comes from. Once I describe the conditions to guests, they can appreciate the wines they have more.”
The masterclasses from Kanellakis will be looking at the diversity of volcanic wine regions, from Sicily to Hungary, with each of the featured wines being “equally unique”.
Among the wines he will be presenting, and which also feature in the volcanic wine pairing option for diners at Ekstedt at The Yard, is a Riesling from Wagner-Stempel in Rheinhessen, Germany. The next three wines are all from islands, though each with their own unique traditions and qualities as wine regions: a Vijariego Blanco cultivated on Tenerife, a wild-fermented Santorini Assyrtiko, and then an Etna Rosso made by Contrada Monte Serra. For a sweet, acidic and complex finish, the tasting then goes to Central Europe, with a 5 Puttonyos Royal Tokaji Aszú from a barrel selected by Kanellakis himself.
The volcanic wine pairing option is £85 per person if served alongside the five-course tasting menu, and £115 with the seven-course version. For Kanellakis, who has to find wines that complement Ekstedt’s cooking, with dishes on the menu like pine-smoked wild duck breast and seaweed-baked langoustine, collaboration is key: “We try the food with the chefs. Then I think about what kind of wine I need to find for this course (white, rosé, red, light, full, fruity or not), and then I think about which volcanic region has the required profile.
“It’s good fun, and I’m always learning something new.”
To find out more, visit: ekstedtattheyard.com
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