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What to drink at Lolo
Louis Thomas looks into the drinks offering at acclaimed Spanish chef José Pizarro’s newly-launched all-day dining concept on Bermondsey Street.
Opened on 12 August, Lolo on Bermondsey Street promises to offer a homelier, more communal feel than Pizarro’s other restaurants.
One of the signature features of Lolo is its all-day breakfast menu, available from 8am until 5pm – booze is served from 10am.
Regarding what to drink alongside your eggs and pastries, Pizarro said: “When it comes to pairing drinks with the all-day breakfast menu, I would suggest sticking to the classics. Early in the morning, I’d always say start with a classic Bloody Mary [£12 for a glass or £34 for a carafe] – it’s refreshing and has a kick that awakens the palate. As we move later through the day a Negroni Sbagliato would be the number one choice. It’s sophisticated, slightly bitter yet quite simply delightful.”
Though at present there is just one Bloody Mary on the menu, a classic combination of tomato juice, vodka, spices, tabasco and, of course, the stick of celery for garnish, he revealed that the options “will be diversifying” come the autumn.
Glancing at the all-day breakfast offering, one thing which leaps out is the use Pedro Ximénez Sherry as a cure for salmon.
Pizarro explained why he opted to incorporate the dark, sweet fortified wine into this dish: “It’s rich, intensely sweet and makes for
a wonderful cure. PX’s sweetness balances the natural brininess of the fish whilst maintaining its moisture and adding texture to the salmon. I would actually suggest pairing the cured salmon dish with an ice cold glass of Albariño – a firm Spanish staple wine.”
Moving onto the all-important selection of wines, Pizarro shared his view that it is “diverse” and offers wines “for all occasions of the day”: “A few crowd pleasers are the classic Frenchs, like the Beaujolais Blanc and Burgundy, and of course, a firm favourite of mine, the lovely Marques de Vargas Rioja [£67.50 for a bottle].”
The Classic Cuvée from Sussex sparkling producer Rathfinny Estate [£77 for a bottle] also appears on the menu, and is perhaps the only wine on the list that might be considered ‘New World’.
“The most unusual wine on the list is the Suelo Vivo [£45 for a bottle] – a light orange wine. Suelo Vivo’ means ‘living soil,’ the name of which reflects their commitment to natural farming,” he continued. “This light orange wine is an ideal introduction to the style and perfect for everyday enjoyment. Garnacha Blanca adds texture and spice, while Moscatel brings a bright, aromatic, and fruity note.”
He is also enthusiastic about the “wonderful” by-the-glass selection: “Most of the wines are available and the focus is European – Italian, French, Spanish, among others. This differs from our other sites, as we have shifted the focus from just Spanish to more European.”
Posed with the question of what the most challenging dish to find a wine pairing for is, Pizarro plumped for a sandwich with a name that might make some diners do a double take.
“The most challenging dish to pair with wine would be the Bikini Sandwich. At Lolo we’re serving up a twist on the Spanish classic. It’s literally named after a swimsuit – the Bikini is a lightly toasted, pressed sandwich filled with salty 5J Jamón Ibérico, gooey soft cheese and a hint of decadent black truffle. We would ideally say to pair it with a Fino Sherry!”
If it’s beer that takes your fancy, Lolo has Victoria Malaga on draught, at £4 for a 237ml pour.
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