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Unfiltered: Maxim Kassir, The Aubrey
The head of beverage at The Aubrey, Hyde Park, talks to Douglas Blyde about getting an early taste of wine, sabrage gone wrong, and the importance of exceeding expectations…
What have you enjoyed from your birth year?
Sadly, 1992 was rainy and cold in most of Europe making it a challenging year for wine. However, I did have the pleasure of trying the exceptional Dom Pérignon 1992. Perhaps I should buy some more?
Where did you work before?
I was the head of beverage at Pantechnicon (RIP), a concept uniting Nordic and Japanese cultures in one iconic building.
Is it true you had a career in TV?
In high school, I was a stage and TV presenter. Later, during my university years in Turkey, I spent six years acting in a professional theatre, traveling the country and enjoying its rich cuisine. Afterwards, I worked as an international news reporter and TV presenter, creating a show sharing the stories of fellow foreigners.
Who was your mentor?
Anne McHale MW played a pivotal role in building my foundation and understanding of the wine trade, inspiring me to pursue wine studies.
How does The Aubrey in London differ from the original in Hong Kong?
Our sister venue in Hong Kong has a stellar cocktail programme which propelled them from 17th to 10th best bar in Asia’s 50 Best Bars this year. Meanwhile, The Aubrey London focuses more on wine and sake, boasting around 50 varieties from rich Junmai to ultra-premium Junmai Daiginjo, and lower ABV, with almost 20 available by the glass. We recently released our own label sake, The Tsuchida Aubrey Junmai, testament to our commitment to introducing this fantastic drink to as many consumers as possible.
What inspired the cocktail creations at The Aubrey?
Our menu, The Yellow Book, embodies the timeless elegance of the Japonisme movement, inspired by our namesake, Aubrey Beardsley, from the nineteenth century.
How are these discoverable in a private omakase experience?
The experience revolves around tailoring cocktails to each guest’s palate. Throughout the evening, we share the story of Japanese drinking culture, weaving in customised cocktails. The private omakase experience in The Ukiyo Room allows us to showcase our ingredients, especially shochu. Though still niche, shochu has immense potential to become a beloved spirit in London’s cocktail scene.
What are the highlights of the wine list?
Our 500-bin selection focuses heavily on grower champagnes, while still wines feature classics from Burgundy, Bordeaux, and California.
What has been a particularly memorable pairing?
One truly amazing pairing was our Scotch egg with Junmai sake. A complete revelation, the protein of the egg yolk and the amino acids in the sake harmonised beautifully. We also frequently organise sake supper clubs, where we collaborate with a brewery to pair their wares with a menu by our chefs. Last year, head sushi chef, Miho Sato created a highlight – fresh lobster and Kobuzime hotate ceviche paired with HeavenSake Junmai Ginjo.
What has been an embarrassing service mistake in your career?
I usually erase these from memory, but this one stays. I love to sabre champagne. Once, I was opening a magnum of Franck Pascal Quint Essence 2010. To avoid damaging the ceiling, I attached a napkin to catch the cork. Everything went smoothly until the bartender handed me a massive Soba Kiri knife meant for chopping ice. It slid along the bottle’s neck, but when it hit the lip, the bottle exploded, spilling half the contents along with my pride. Fortunately, the guests found it entertaining, and the second magnum was sabred successfully.
What has been a standout producer event at The Aubrey?
Last year, we hosted the launch of Bruno Paillard Blanc de Noirs. I have a deep respect for Alice Paillard, and it was an honour to host her. I firmly believe that champagne and Japanese food are meant for each other.
How do you see the gastronomy scene in London evolving?
Over the past two years, we’ve observed that consumers are dining out less frequently while seeking higher-quality experiences when they do. The Aubrey is well-positioned to cater to guests who are knowledgeable in fine dining and drinks. We are committed to providing the best possible izakaya experience in London, continually elevating our offerings to exceed expectations.
Where else do you enjoy having a drink?
My latest cocktail discovery is the speakeasy bar, Scales opposite Selfridges. Opened by two talented mixologists, Din Jusufi and Engji Shala, this fantastic bar features a lineup of delicious cocktails, each crafted around a single ingredient or flavour.
Tell us something surprising about yourself.
I accidentally got into wine when I was just five years old by smuggling some fermenting must from the back of the cupboard in my grandparents’ house and drinking it with my sister. My grandmother was particularly surprised when I could no longer walk in a straight line…
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