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Unfiltered: Emer Landgraf, The Clove Club
The head sommelier of The Clove Club speaks with Douglas Blyde about her fondness for boutique Champagnes, tasting wines by the sea, and enthusiasm for long-range hikes.
What has been a standout bottle from your birth year, and how did it perform?
I don’t have the best memories of bottles from my birth year of 1995. On my graduation, my dad bought a bottle of Penfolds Grange to help us celebrate. A combination of decanting too early and it not being the most prominent vintage meant it didn’t live up to the amount he paid for it! So the best would be Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires: a beautiful and pure wine.
How did your interest in wine develop?
It budded while I was working part-time at a local BYOB Italian restaurant while studying finance at university. The restaurant was in a wealthy part of Brisbane. Our regulars included barristers, lawyers, doctors, and surgeons, who had extensive wine collections and were generous in letting me taste their bottles.
How does your finance degree impact your role?
It helped me become more savvy when it comes to Excel spreadsheets.
What led you to join The Clove Club?
I had heard a lot about the restaurant when in Australia and even had some friends who used to work there. I was tossing up the options between a few different restaurants, but once I walked into the building, I knew it was the place for me.
How has the wine list evolved under your tenure?
As a proud Australian, I definitely expanded my selection of Australian whites, including exceptional producers like Ravensworth, Luke Lambert, William Downie, and Bass Phillip. I am also a big Champagne lover, so I’ve started exploring more growers. Some of my favourites are Frederic Savart, Cedric Bouchard, Les Freres Mignon, Adrien Renoir, Elise Bougy, Dhondt-Grellet, and Ruppert-Leroy.
What about English growers?
I’m a big fan of Sugrue, run by Anna and Dermot, a husband-and-wife team. Other notable sparkling options include Hundred Hills, while Danbury Ridge is producing England’s best still wines in my opinion. We’ve poured their Pinot Noir by the glass for some time.
What improvements are in the works?
I want to add more variety to the Portuguese section to complement the likes of Luis Seabra and Antonio Madeira.
What should diners explore more?
Indigenous grapes from the Canary Islands, such as Tameran, a collaboration between Jonathon Garcia and David Silva.
Is there a style or grape you could live without?
I struggle with high ABV Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, especially when it has been heavily oaked.
What are your finest pours available via Coravin?
Egon Müller “Scharzhofberger” Kabinett Riesling, and a flight of Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino from three different years which proved an extremely popular, special experience.
Do you have a favourite table in the house?
Table 24 in the front room of the restaurant, looking over the Old Shoreditch Courthouse, from which you can see the red double-deckers sweeping past. I always loved working in this room when I first started, as it just made me feel I was in London (a little surreal after first moving over).
Which ingredients do you love?
I love seafood, especially scallops, from the Orkneys. Since moving here, I’ve experienced a whole different array of seafood; the abundance of produce is impressive. I also love drinking wine by the ocean. It makes the experience even more relaxing and holistic.
Can you share a memorable wine and food pairing you created?
Les Freres Mignon L’Aventure Blanc de Blancs paired with veal sweetbreads, bay leaf, apple and sorrel. I love how the Champagne cuts through the richness of the dish and blends with its aromas.
What does head chef-patron Isaac McHale prefer to drink?
He loves lighter reds, preferably Pinot Noir from Burgundy – good taste!
How do you incorporate your love for tea into a gastronomic experience?
Chef Isaac created a unique ambient tea pairing option. Tea has key textures and flavours that are missed when brewed hot. I love our mixed pairing, which highlights wine and tea, so you get the best of both worlds.
What qualities do you look for when hiring sommeliers?
A love and passion for wine, but more importantly for food! I don’t think you can become a good sommelier if you have no interest in the food side.
What is a key lesson you’ve learned in hospitality?
Never allocate your time at the table based on spend per head, nor change your service style accordingly. On most occasions, I get more joy speaking to a young couple and introducing them to a bottle from a region/grape they have never tried before.
What’s something surprising about you?
I love hiking. I visited Annapurna Base Camp a few years ago on a family holiday and completed 500km on the Camino del Norte just before moving to London. I plan to complete the remaining 365km for my next birthday.
If you could have any superpower, what would it be?
To be able to fly. What a cool way to see new places.
Who from history would you like to have lunch with?
Frank Sinatra at The Clove Club, choosing Taittinger Comtes de Champagne. I believe Frank would love The Clove Club, given that his acquaintances, the Kray brothers, used to attend boxing matches and host card games in that very space…
The Clove Club – 380 Old Street, London, EC1V 9LT; 020 7729 6496; hello@thecloveclub.com; thecloveclub.com
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