All the medallists from the Global Chenin Blanc Masters 2024

Chenin Blanc’s huge versatility and ability to age well make it a grape variety that deserves more of the limelight, reports Patricia Stefanowicz MW.

Chenin Blanc is remarkably versatile, as the judges found in this year’s Global Chenin Blanc Masters competition. The variety produces some of the finest and most age-worthy sweet and dry white wines, with or without oak, as well as sparkling expressions.

The Loire Valley is Chenin Blanc’s historic territory and probably its birthplace. Here it makes elegant Crémant de Loire, sparkling Saumur and sparkling Vouvray. But Chenin’s most renowned wines are the late-picked sweet wines of Coteaux du Layon and the botrytisinfluenced Vouvray, Montlouis, Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume. These wines have high sugar levels balanced by bracing acidity that allows the wines to evolve for decades.

But one must certainly not ignore the dry, medium-dry and medium-sweet Chenin wines. The best examples show delicious flavours of honey, lemon, custard and yellow fruits with a chalky, mineral backbone. This year, the French wines we judged validate exactly what connoisseurs love about the variety, displaying concentrated flavours and intriguing texture, as well as being good value for money.

The sparkling wines from Bouvet Ladubay, and Maison Ackerman’s sparkling Saumur, are pristine. The dry, still wines from organic and biodynamic Domaine Bonnigal-Bodet are a revelation and, although expensive, Domaine du Closel’s Savennières Clos du Papillon is well worth searching out for its great intensity and length. This is a wine with which to celebrate a special occasion. Because Loire Valley Chenin Blanc was loved by the Dutch, Chenin grapes were brought to South Africa in the 17th century and planted by the colonists there. Today, it’s the most planted variety in the country, with more than 18,000 hectares, nearly twice as much as France. Unoaked South African Chenin makes a sensational, easy-drinking aperitif, while oaked styles are beautifully balanced, with hazelnut and toast accenting creamy custard and lemon flavours.

The best examples show extra ripeness, with passionfruit, guava and pineapple shining through rapier acidity. There is great value at every price point, with wines at £10–£15 and £15–£20 showing particularly well, especially from Nederburg, Durbanville Hills and Koelenhof. Old vines can be certified in South Africa if 35-plus years old, and wines from Dalkeith, Stellenrust, Vondeling and Spier won over the judges. Elsewhere, Big Head Winery in eastern Canada produces concentrated, stylish wines with consistency across vintages, indicating the region’s capability for serious Chenin. Okanagan in western Canada and neighbouring Washington State also seem to be successful. Herzog in California gave us a couple of intriguing wines – and Fratelli from Maharastra in India is producing awardwinning examples too.

With balance, texture, lively acidity and, often, carefully handled oak, the judges agreed that more attention should be paid to Chenin by today’s wine consumers.

Sparkling 100% Chenin Blanc

Still Unoaked 100% Chenin Blanc

Still Oaked 100% Chenin Blanc

Fortified 100% Chenin Blanc

Sparkling Blend

Still Unoaked Blend

Still Oaked Blend

About the competition

With high-quality judges and a unique sampling process, The Global Chenin Blanc Masters provides a chance for your wines to shine. The 2024 competition was judged on 4 July at COMO The Halkin in London, employing experienced judges. The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Chenin Blanc Master. This report features the medal winners only. Please visit the Global Masters website for more information or, to enter future competitions – giving you the chance to feature online and in print – please call: +44 (0) 20 7803 2420 or email Sophie Raichura at: sophie@thedrinksbusiness.com