10 wines from the Global Chenin Blanc Masters 2024

Chenin Blanc is remarkably versatile with the variety producing some of the finest and most age-worthy sweet and dry white wines, as well as sparkling expressions. Here are 10 wines from this year’s Global Chenin Blanc Masters competition to savour.

Tasting notes and food matching are provided by Patricia Stefanowicz MW.

NEDERBURG HERITAGE HEROES THE ANCHORMAN OLD VINE CHENIN BLANC 2023

Producer: Nederburg Wines

Region: Western Cape

Country: South Africa

Grape variety: 100% Chenin Blanc

ABV: 14.38%,

Approx. retail price: £15

Medal: Gold

Certified as a South African Old Vine Project wine, this wine from Nederburg is sourced from vines that are close to 50 years old, and the grapes come from Swartland and Agter-Paarl. The wine, pale lemon-gold in colour, shows lemon custard, golden apple and apricot fruit, with a honey note and cinnamon and clove spices from well-judged use of oak.

Dry, midweight, the palate flavours are balanced by lively acidity and well-integrated, creamy oak. Nicely focused and having good length, this wine will be an excellent pairing for braised chicken breasts with a Thai-inspired sweet red pepper, chilli-accented sauce.

BIG HEAD WINES RAW CHENIN BLANC 2022

Producer: Big Head Wines

Region: Niagara Lakeshore

Country: Canada

Grape variety: 100% Chenin Blanc

ABV: 13.9%

Approx. retail price: £29

Medal: Gold

Hand-crafted, this is a ‘take-a-stepback’ style of wine. The RAW grapes from the vineyards are hand-picked and gently handled, then fermented with indigenous yeasts. Aged in concrete vats, the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation, but not much movement and no filtration before bottling. The resultant RAW Chenin Blanc is a textural and delicious wine, nearly dry, rounded, with hints of positive botrytis in the honey, apricot and orange marmalade aromatics. Searing acidity balances the palate flavours of melon, pink grapefruit and lemon custard.

This wine, with some development now, will work with grilled salmon from the barbecue.

KOELENHOF WINERY STELLENBOSCH 1679 BUSH VINE CHENIN BLANC 2022

Producer: Koelenhof Winery

Region: Stellenbosch

Country: South Africa

Grape variety: 100% Chenin Blanc

ABV: 13.5%

Approx. retail price: £16

Medal: Master

Started when a group of Stellenbosch growers formed a cooperative in 1941, Koelenhof prospered under the direction of Pieter Hugo de Vries, a talented grower and winemaker. The 1679 wine range is named after the year when the town of Stellenbosch was established and some of the first Chenin Blanc grapes were planted in the Cape growing area by Dutch settlers.

This wine, pale gold in colour, shows concentrated pineapple, galia melon and tangerine fruit, accented by creamy oak and a touch of wet wool. The ripe flavours on the palate are beautifully integrated and balanced by bracing acidity. Complex and lingering, the wine is a good pairing for a summer salad of artichoke hearts, pink grapefruit slices and black olives served on watercress, with parsley and thyme.

STELLENRUST BARREL-FERMENTED 59 CHENIN BLANC 2023

Producer: Stellenrust Wines

Region: Stellenbosch

Country: South Africa

Grape variety: 100% Chenin Blanc

ABV: 13.5%

Approx. retail price: £25

Medal: Gold

From a 17th-century family property, the vines for this Stellenrust wine are now 59 years old, hence the number on the label. Pale gold-coloured, the wine has tropical fruit – melon, quince and pineapple – overlaid with notes of honey, lemon zest and smoky oak. Dry, the midweight palate has zesty acidity framing the rich flavours.

Sappy and savoury, the wine shows layers of flavour and a lingering finish. The wine will make a delightful pairing for poached sea bass fillets with white wine, cream and chervil sauce.

LIPINSKI FAMILY CHENIN BLANC 2022

Producer: Big Head Wines

Region: Niagara Lakeshore

Country: Canada

Grape variety: 100% Chenin Blanc

ABV: 13.7%

Approx. retail price: £39

Medal: Gold

The Lipinski family are quietly making a rather big name for their top-quality Canadian wines from underrated grape varieties. This Chenin Blanc is an exceptional example. Quite deep straw-yellow-gold in colour, the wine has typical Chenin Blanc characteristics: tangerine, pineapple, peach and apricot, with hazelnut and honey nuances on the nose.

The midweight palate echoes the aromatics. The flavours are balanced by very crisp acidity and a bit of tannic grip adding texture and strength. The nutty finish suggests pairing with roasted chicken, accompanied by new potatoes and tarragon carrots.

SPIER 21 GABLES CHENIN BLANC 2022

Producer: Spier Wine Farm

Region: Coastal Region

Country: South Africa

Grape variety: 100% Chenin Blanc

ABV: 14.5%

Approx. retail price: £25

Medal: Master

The 37-year-old, dry-farmed, bush-trained vines used for this wine are nicknamed the ‘Lazarus vines’ because Johann Jordaan, the Spier cellarmaster, rescued them from obscurity and uprooting. Pale gold-hued, the wine displays golden apple, guava and peach flavours, with smoky wood and honey notes.

Dry, midweight, the rich palate is balanced by zesty acidity and a hint of astringency, giving a little added grip and leading to a savoury finish. The wine would be a good match for seared swordfish steaks.

HERZOG SPECIAL RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 2023

Producer: Herzog Wine Cellars

Region: Clarksburg, California

Country: USA

Grape variety: 100% Chenin Blanc

ABV: 14.5%

Approx. retail price: £45

Medal: Master

Herzog make wines from numerous California wine regions. This lovely example comes from the southern part of Sacramento, where cooling breezes from San Francisco Bay keep the acidity.

Deep clay-loam soils with good water-holding capacity allow the Chenin Blanc grapes to ripen slowly and carefully. Mid-gold in colour, with yellow peaches and mirabelle plums overlaid with toasty oak and hints of orange zest and acacia honey, the wine is midweight and has racy acidity, suggesting a good match for a range of Chinese dishes.

VONDELING BOWWOOD CHENIN BLANC 2022

Producer: Vondeling

Region: Western Cape

Country: South Africa

Grape variety: 100% Chenin Blanc

ABV: 13.9%

Approx. retail price: £38

Medal: Gold

This wine is from a single vineyard, the highest altitude on Vondeling overlooking the Voor Paardeberg sub-region, offering a south-facing, cool meso-climate to ensure a long growing season and gentle ripening. The wine is mid-gold in colour and exhibits focused pineapple and yellow plum fruit, with vanilla bean and honey notes.

Just dry and medium-bodied, the palate shows zippy acidity and succulent texture, which carries through to the lingering finish. A good food pairing would be roasted aubergine stuffed with prawns and breadcrumbs.

DOMAINE DU CLOSEL SAVENNIÈRES CLOS DU PAPILLON 2022

Producer: Domaine du Closel

Region: Loire Valley

Country: France

Grape variety: 100% Chenin Blanc

ABV: 15.5%

Approx. retail price: £69

Medal: Master

Managed by Evelyne de Pontbriand, who is also president of the appellation, this 15-hectare domaine is a star in Savennières. The vineyard is biodynamically cultivated, and the quality of the wine is exceptional and expensive – but worth every cent. Quite deep gold in hue, the wine is aromatic with golden apples, mirabelles and apricots, surrounded by creamy oak and lifted by acacia honey and floral notes.

Dry, the midweight and intense palate is framed by racy acidity. Incredible length, beautifully integrated and textural. Great with turbot and sweet red pepper on potato-chive rosti.

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