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Unfiltered: Matthew Davison
The restaurant director of the acclaimed Moor Hall transitioned from pulling pints to picking prime Black Hamburg grapes from the estate’s picturesque and functional kitchen garden. In an interview with Douglas Blyde, he discusses the qualities he values in team members, shares chef-patron Mark Birchall’s favourite drinks, and underscores the importance of patience in hospitality.
What is your vintage?
1990, from which my somm team gifted me a bottle of Henschke’s Mount Edelstone for my birthday. Reminiscent of a great Côte-Rôtie, it was smoky, still fruit driven, and balanced. Sadly for them, I rather selfishly shared it with my family and not them.
When did the wine bug bite?
My introduction to the world of beverages came at The Market Pub in Chesterfield. It was there, while I pulled pints, that landlord, Douglas Daniels, encouraged me to pursue my studies. I believe a certain amount of “palate maturation” ensued. After all, there’s only so much excitement you can derive from tuna pasta bake and cans of Carling – staples of many early noughties university lifestyles.
Does your history degree impact your appreciation of wine?
Understanding world history enriched my knowledge of winemaking, past and present. For instance, during my visit to Tokaji and Slovakia, I learnt how communism profoundly impacted winemaking in those regions and how they overcame its negative effects.
How did you join Moor Hall?
I first dined here during a “research and development lunch” while working in the Peak District. What a revelation! The seamless execution, front and back of house, left me awestruck. I wanted to be part of it. When I had the chance to relocate, I got in touch, and the timing proved serendipitous. I feel privileged to be part of this team and what we’ve achieved. I never take it for granted.
How has the list changed over your tenure?
Fortunately, I inherited an amazing list. I’ve since brought balance to it. As a result, I’m pleased with Austria, the USA, and our Champagne and sparkling wine sections. Championing smaller producers with a similar ethos to our restaurant is central to the list. We’ve also moved back to a printed copy, which has positively influenced the guest experience.
What is left to be done?
The development and evolution of a wine list never stops. While our selection is comprehensive, there are areas in South America and orange/skin contact which we are looking at.
What is it like to both manage Moor Hall’s restaurant, as well as being the head sommelier?
Taking on the restaurant director role was a big step and a lot of hard work, but one I felt ready for. I was deeply grateful for Mark Birchall’s confidence in me. Overseeing the beverage programme is close to my heart after a decade in wine. It’s fascinating to see how wine and food service intertwine from a different perspective.
What should diners discover?
It’s been encouraging to see a growing excitement for Greek wine, particularly Xinomavro, as well as the wines of New York State and the Balearics. Meanwhile, Austria remains underrated.
And what would you happily live without?
Unbalanced Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs and Gewurztraminer in general.
What ingredient do you loathe?
Go away, coriander!
What are your finest pours via Coravin?
Dominio Del Aguila’s 2019 Albillo is a firm favourite, alongside Trimbach’s 2007 Clos St Hune, and Sadie Family’s 2016 “Pofadder”.
What is your favourite table?
Table eight, tucked away towards a corner from which you can see the entire dining room as well the kitchen.
What has been a memorable wine and food match at your hands?
East Coast lobster with rosehip, Tarleton tomatoes from Brian at Croftpak Nurseries, and smoked bone marrow. While it typically pairs with rosé, I’m pleased to put it with Bendito Destino’s Clarete.
Where else do you enjoy wine?
Liverpool’s Ropes and Twines offers a great rotating list to drink in or take away, while Burnt Milk Hotel on the docks is perfect for the natural wine crowd. In Manchester, Climat boasts a wonderful list, and Flawd has a great setup with excellent beers.
What does head chef, Mark Birchall drink?
He enjoys Estrella Inedit, as well as aged Austrian Riesling and Grüner. He’s also a fan of bold Champagnes like Henri Giraud, and Rioja, especially from López de Heredia.
What do you look for when hiring?
The ideal team member genuinely believes in our mission. More important than experience is a willingness to learn and a love for hospitality. This role isn’t about sitting behind a laptop all day. I aim for warm, approachable service, built through meaningful interactions and strong guest relationships.
Will you plant a vineyard at Moor Hall?
As far as I’m aware there are no such plans. That said, we harvest some Muscat (Black Hamburg) from the garden for one of our desserts and cocktails.
What can we learn from the world of hospitality?
Everyone should experience a stint in hospitality or retail. You’ll see the best and worst in both colleagues and guests, make lifelong friends, and learn patience. This experience might make people reconsider shouting at bar staff after waiting four minutes for a pint of Guinness in a packed bar on Christmas Eve, for example.
Tell us something surprising about yourself?
I hate cheese!
Who, from history, would you like to dine with?
I’d love to have lunch with David Bowie, accompanied by the vibrant 2006 Selosse, which evokes Ziggy Stardust morphing into the Thin White Duke, though convincing this abstainer to enjoy a glass might be challenging. Alternatively, a Negroni with Mick Jagger.
Moor Hall – Prescot Rd, Aughton, Ormskirk, L39 6RT; 01695 572 511; moorhall.com
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