Fells Vinothèque will ‘challenge perceptions’ on peak maturity

UK distributor Fells is targeting restaurants with the Fells Vinothèque release programme – a new initiative dedicated to releasing mature vintages from the company’s global roster of wine producers.

Fells Vinothèque launches next week (w/c 29 July) with an initial tranche of four wines: a 2018 Meursault premier cru from Bouchard Père & Fils; a 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione from Barone Ricasoli; and two single-vineyard wines from Tyrrell’s – a 2018 Shiraz and a 2015 Chardonnay (further details below).

The company has spent the past few years laying down stocks of wines that typically sell through on release, with the aim of tackling two main problems: the inability of most restaurants to store wines for long periods; and the frustration of seeing entire new vintages sold and consumed before they reach peak maturity.

“A lot of people are not doing museum releases,” explained Richard Girling, Fells fine wine director. “Someone like Virginia Willcock at Vasse Felix would love her Chardonnays to be held back for four or five years, but due to cash flow demands they have to let them go, and they don’t have a library reserve. That set us thinking about how wonderfully expressive the wine would be after four or five years.”

To date, Fells has laid down a significant number of cases covering more than 70 wines from 30 wineries, focusing on producers from whom the company is typically unable to source older stocks.

Convincing

Girling said: “It took some convincing with the [Fells] finance team. But, if producers can’t do it, we decided it’s the right thing to do.

“Producers love the on-trade, and they’d love to have those listings. And to help Fells to be relevant in the on-trade, we have to find new ways of delivering service.”

Vinothèque is not primarily aimed at the most expensive or age-worthy wines in the Fells portfolio.

“This is not necessarily about putting grand cru Burgundies into the ageing programme,” Girling continued,“it’s more for the wines that sit at £20-£40 retail, restaurant-friendly wines that are entering their drinking window after three to five years.”

Examples might include Vasse Felix Chardonnay (the 2021 vintage is part of the programme), Symington’s sought-after Alentejo white from Quinta da Fonte Souto, Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Semillons and Chardonnays, and Post Scriptum – the Prats and Symington Douro red that is the second wine to Chryseia.

Extending

Some wines – Girling referenced Marc Brédif’s Vouvray Classic and Pewsey Vale Riesling – might have an extended period of ageing beyond only a few years “just to generate a little bit more interest”.

Although the initiative may be extended to independent specialist retailers – stocks permitting – the primary aim is the on-trade, and relatively swift rotation. “We want this to be sold and drunk,” said Girling.

“By-the-glass would be our first preference, but we will be learning on our feet a little bit with it. We’re also taking on new wineries on an annual basis, so it’s a question of seeing how those wineries will fit into the programme.”

He cited as an example Contacto, Anselmo Mendes’ cult Alvarinho acquired by Symington Family Estates in 2023.

Rolling schedule

Fells is aiming to plan a two-year rolling schedule of quarterly releases, subject to tasting (wines are assessed at least every two years), with tranches possibly assembled according to a theme or seasonality.

Girling said: “It gives people the chance of seeing a Chardonnay from Western Australia, for example, up against a Chardonnay from the Côte d’Or.”

The programme will also include occasional ‘museum’ or ‘ex-château’ releases of wines cellared at the wineries themselves – many of them aged in bottle for up to 10 years or more.

Pricing will reflect the costs of storage and other expenses, but Girling insisted that the company will not be “putting a ridiculous premium” on the wines. “In the end,” he said, “we are trying to challenge perceptions, in terms of what people think about these wines and when they should be drunk.”

Fells Vinothèque first release, with notes from Richard Girling, Fells fine wine director

Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Domaine 2018

“Bouchard Père & Fils is one of the largest owners of vineyards in Meursault: they own 19.72 hectares, of which 5.05ha are premer cru (Perrières, Genevrières, Charmes, Le Porusot, Les Bouchères, Les Gouttes d’Or). This is a blend of wines coming from Les Bouchères and Le Porusot.

“The 2018 vintage was a very warm year – the wines are ripe but controlled. They are very elegant and fragrant, with medium to full body. The 1er Cru Domaine 2018 is muscular and structured, with good mineral depth in the core, and has a lively saline finish. Drinking perfectly now with four years of bottle age – the perfect time to drink a premier cru Meursault.”

Tyrrell’s ‘Sacred Sites’ HVD Single Vineyard Old Vine Chardonnay 2015

“The HVD (Hunter Valley Distillery) vineyard was planted in 1908 and is believed to be the oldest Chardonnay vineyard in the world. This wine has amazing depth and complexity: nuances of struck match, cooked apple, lemon, peaches and pear notes, with a flinty core and racy acidity. It will continue to evolve over many years; however, it is in a very good place at the moment. A perfect accompaniment to roast chicken.”

Barone Ricasoli Colledilà Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2016

“From an exceptional vintage, Colledilà comes exclusively from the Monte Morello soil (alberese limestone with calcareous clay rock), giving it wonderful freshness and focus. The wine is in a perfect place at the moment, showing beautifully expressive, developing Sangiovese character. While still in its youth, the mid-palate has fleshed out and it is perfect for drinking now.”

Tyrrell’s Single Vineyard Old Hillside Shiraz 2018

“This is an exceptional Shiraz from the Hunter Valley – 2018 was a stellar vintage with perfect conditions, giving the wine incredible concentration while maintaining medium-bodied elegance and charm. It is in a real sweet spot right now: while still youthful, it is an incredibly elegant Shiraz, perfect for summer drinking.”