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Monastrell España takes its moment in the sun

30 July 2024 By Michael Huband

Monastrell España, an association of five DOs, is making the case for the sunshine-loving grape’s diversity and quality.

It is not just British tourists who love soaking in the sun on Spain’s Mediterranean coast. Although the beaches of the Costa Blanca or Costa Cálida are well known for their sun-soaked vistas, head just a little inland and you will find another sun-seeker. Monastrell, the fourth most planted black grape variety in Spain, has made this sun-soaked corner of the country a true stronghold.

That is, in part, why the Monastrell España association has nicknamed it ‘the sunshine grape’. The group brings together five denominacións de origen across the regions of Murcia, Comunidad Valenciana and Castilla-La Mancha. Although each has its own identity, DO Alicante, DO Almansa, DO Bullas, DO Jumilla and DO Yecla are united in aspects of their geography and their mission to promote the indigenous grape.

Each benefits from a high-temperature, sunny and broadly continental climate. These are ideal conditions for the indigenous grape. As a late budding and late ripening variety, it needs high temperatures consistently, but especially towards the end of the growing season. With routinely bright and warm days, the wines can achieve high potential alcohol levels matched by rich colours and powerful aromas.

Without sunshine, quite simply, the grape cannot thrive. While many varieties become too alcoholic or lose any elegance in sunny climes, the rich profile of typical Monastrell relies on extended, sun-kissed ripening. It also responds well to the region’s winds, often rolling in from the Mediterranean, as these help maintain healthy growth.

Monastrell is likewise well-adapted to dry climates. The deep calcareous soils found across the different DOs are a perfect match for Monastrell vines. They encourage roots to penetrate deep into the earth, where there is a consistent, if relatively small water supply.

Of course, the DOs that make up the Monastrell Association are not homogenous. They have variations in climate, such as added humidity when close to the sea or high diurnal variation on inland plateaus. They also represent different scales, from just over 1,000 hectares of vineyards to more than 21,500ha.

Even within each DO there can be significant differences. The hills that dot the landscape provide high altitude sites, affect sun exposure and direct winds so that no two Monastrell vineyards are identical.

Nonetheless, Monastrell from this corner of Spain has a particular identity. Here, the red and black berry inflected wines show the possibilities of fully ripe Monastrell. Whether bright and fruit forward or deep and serious, Monastrell wines are a testament to the winemaking skill, complex terroir and, of course, glorious sun that defines this part of Spain.

Patrick Schmitt MW surveys a selection of Monastrell wines, both summer-ready rosados and richer reds, from the five DOs below.

Cañada Del Soto

Producer: Bodegas Cano
Region: Alamansa
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2023
Grape varieties: 100% Monastrell
ABV: 13%
Approx. retail price: £9

A bright, quite deeply coloured salmon pink wine with appealing notes of white peach and strawberry jam. While there’s plenty of ripe fruit and a touch of sweetness too, this rosé finishes with a crisp apple bit and a dry, fine, chalky tannin texture.

Vergel Rosado

Producer: Bodegas Pinoso
Region: Alicante
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2023
Grape varieties: 100% Monastrell
ABV: 12.5%
Approx. retail price: £9.90

A pale salmon pink wine with delicate notes of sweet peach and ripe apple followed by a bright, fresh finish featuring flavours of citrus zest and pear drops.

Alceño Rosado

Producer: Bodegas Alceño
Region: Jumilla
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2023
Grape varieties: 100% Monastrell
ABV: 13%
Approx. retail price: £15

A deeply-coloured rose that’s intense and appealing, with flavours of strawberry jam, even a touch of pink bubblegum, complemented by a dusting of fine dry tannin and some zesty acidity, ensuring there’s a refreshing finish to what is quite a powerful rosé.

Señorío de Bullas

Producer: Bodegas Del Rosario
Region: Bullas
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2015
Grape varieties: 80% Monastrell, 20% Syrah
ABV: 15%
Approx. retail price: £9

A rather lovely, affordable, fully ripe and gently evolved red with notes of cherry jam, prunes and blackberry, then liquorice and black pepper, followed by an appealing note of cigar box. While it’s already almost 10 years old, it still has plenty of fruit and freshness, with lingering chewy tannins, warming alcohol and a persistent note of plums, stewed dark fruit and cedar wood.

Old Hands

Producer: Bodegas La Purísma
Region: Yecla
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2022
Grape varieties: 100% Monastrell
ABV: 14%
Approx. retail price: £9.95

A lovely easy-drinking organic red with a Garnacha-like medium-weight feel and plenty of ripe juicy strawberry fruit complemented by a touch of white peppery spice. In terms of structure, while fleshy, it’s also dry and slightly chewy, with a palate-cleansing mix of firm tannins and fresh acidity.

La Tremenda

Producer: Bodegas Enrique Mendoza
Region: Alicante
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2022
Grape varieties: 100% Monastrell
ABV: 13.5%
Approx. retail price: £14

A red with plenty of old-school appeal, this Monastrell is lively and chewy, with notes of blood orange, stewed cherry and fresh plums. Along with this is a note of cedar, then tangerine, and crushed chalk, and while there is plenty of sweet fruit, the mouth-feel is quite light and the finish is deliciously refreshing.

Finca CQ

Producer: Bodegas Viña Elena
Region: Jumilla
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2022
Grape varieties: 100% Monastrell
ABV: 14.5%
Approx. retail price: £20

A lovely find from an acclaimed producer of Monastrell in Jumilla, this expression from Vina Elena is packed with deliciously ripe red berry fruit along with notes of plums and a hint of sour cherry to make you salivate. Lively, pure and refreshing in style, there’s nothing heavy nor baked about this energetic if juicy red, with plenty of dense, dry tannins too.