Is organic certification worth the hassle?

Organic viticulture may be widely practised, but is the pursuit of official certification worth the time and money? Sarah McCleery reports.

IF YOU’RE not already paying attention to organic wine, then you should be. According to a report entitled “Organic Wine Market Size” by Grand View Research, the global organic wine market will grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of +10.4% from 2024 to 2030, having had an estimated value of US$10.8 billion in 2023. The numbers are certainly bold enough to focus serious attention on the category, but the real elephant in the room? Is organic certification worth it?

For wineries considering organic certification, the lengthy and expensive process is well documented. There’s a fee to register, and producers commit to a three-year conversion process, rigorous audits and what some call “an intimidating mountain of paperwork”.

It’s not for the faint-hearted. “There are a lot of costs: the time to obtain certification, the paperwork and the heterogenous yields, depending on the weather conditions,” say Charline and Hugo Drappier of Champagne Drappier. “The certification is very strict, and we can understand why people choose not to go for certification, especially when just one treatment can save a harvest. We understand that sometimes there is a need for flexibility.”

This said, the Drappiers – along with many fellow winemakers – acknowledge that certification is the only way to demonstrate your commitment to consumers, as there’s no reliable way to monitor those who talk of adopting organic practices, but who don’t have the paperwork to prove it.

“It’s not enough for a winery to talk of adopting organic practices, while not obtaining certification. I like to say that it is like dating someone but not committing to marriage,” says Anne Bousquet, co-owner of Argentinian producer Domaine Bousquet. “Effectively, this gives wineries a loophole so they can pick and choose when to be organic. It doesn’t work like that. Working organically is a commitment; it can mean making tough decisions, but the outcome is absolutely worth the investment. Better soil health equals better grapes, equals better wines.”

DETERMINING FACTOR

The work to attain and retain accreditation is admirable, as is the honesty of some producers who openly admit that not all markets are particularly concerned as to whether wines come with a green leaf stamp of approval. “We ask the question a lot. Our customers in Scandinavia, and in bigger cities, where there’s greater awareness, people are more concerned about our organic status, but it’s not often the determining factor in whether or not they choose to buy,” says Charline Drappier.

For others, the clarity for consumers is key to their sales strategy, with trust an oft-repeated reason for pursuing certification. “The advantages of certification are several: the first is that you submit to a voluntary control that requires strict compliance with the regulations; another is that you risk your reputation in the case of not complying with the regulations; and, finally, you generate trust with your customers by having a document that certifies the organic status of your wines,” says Luis Manuel Cárcar, winemaker and owner of Bodegas Bagordi, with operations in Rioja.

“Consumers look for brands that can provide certification as it gives them confidence. We are a family winery that exports 70% of its production and, if it were not for the organic certification, we would just be another winery in Rioja. There are many Rioja wines, but there are very few certified organic Rioja wines. Some of the most reluctant to take this step are now championing the change towards organic, if only to occupy a less saturated niche than the more conventional one.”

Champagne Drappier, which only has one cuvée that has carried certification since its inaugural vintage, notes that sales have been strong, but the producer is reluctant to pin its success on its organic status. Equally, where sales are on the increase for those cuvées that have become organic, it is impossible to determine the precise factors behind the numbers. And, without the numbers, it’s challenging to make a compelling commercial case for certification.

Going the distance: Domaine Bousquet

Stefano Girelli at Italian producer The Wine People explains more. “We want to sell our wines because they are delicious in their own category and represent the variety and terroir. The fact they are organic is another tick in the box, so for this reason we don’t measure sales based on organic certification,” he says.

Anne Bousquet has a more bullish perspective, driven by her all-in ethos. “Certification is increasingly important to both the trade and consumers; both are actively seeking out [these] wines… especially in the last four or five years, with Covid-19 acting as a catalyst,” she says.

“We were awarded Regenerative Organic Certification (ROC) in 2022. Wines from these vintages are only just starting to enter the market, so while there is a lack of recognition now, this will grow quickly. Our first wine with ROC status is our Virgin Vineyards Organic Malbec 2023,which our distributor Vintage Roots is seeing strong sales for since its UK launch in March.”

The data supporting organic wine sales in the UK is patchy. IWSR tells db that organic wines enjoy the highest awareness levels among alternative wines (biodynamic, natural, orange, sustainable). The figures in the opening paragraph of this article show that the segment is projected to grow globally, with 60% of total volumes currently concentrated in France, Germany and the UK. In the UK, it’s Millennials who are the most responsive group to organic wines, and concerns about the environment mean producers are leaning against an open door.

So is organic certification increasingly becoming a commercial decision more than an environmental commitment?

“Organic production must first be due to a conviction for sustainable development, being friendly to the environment and the responsible use of natural resources. Without a doubt, this also allows us to develop a commercial advantage, especially in markets that value organic products, free of synthesised chemical inputs,” says Matías Ríos, winemaker for Chilean producer Cono Sur, which began organic wine production more than 20 years ago.

“In our experience, we can assure that organic certifications give us a competitive and credible edge. Commercial development is important since it allows expansion and growth in these types of projects. Without demand, this development is not possible. But the conviction and decision to take the certified organic path will always come first as it has to be the philosophy of the company and its people.”

On a more cautionary note, anecdotal feedback and the IWSR research is clear: quality is key, and increasingly so in economically challenging times. Green credentials matter, but if consumers don’t enjoy the experience, being organic won’t be enough.

SUPPORTING ACT

The plethora of global certifying bodies might be seen as a barrier for effective communication with consumers. Despite this, producers and importers are generally positive about the role that certifying bodies play, while acknowledging their limitations. Some argue that spot checks throughout the year would allow for greater rigour, while others suggest the administrative burden could be reduced.

“The number of certifiers could confuse the rigour of their evaluation and certification processes,” says Ríos. “That is why having the certifier be internationally recognised is very important, since it gives security and confidence in the work being done. The certifier must also have the support of the different markets.”

When it comes to commercial support, the view is mixed. “I really don’t think the certifying body needs to make changes,” says The Wine People’s Girelli. “They are certifying the authenticity of the organic practice and should not get involved in commercial issues for producers.” If there is anything bodies could do, he adds, “it would be great if they could promote how important organic wine is to consumers and what it means to them”.

At the other end of the spectrum, Anne Bousquet feels that certifying bodies “could help by collecting and sharing information about organic trends. By informing consumers about the number of hectares converted into new organic vineyards each year, the increase in organic wine volume and sales, and so on, they could help build stronger market demand for organic products”.

It’s hard to argue with Bousquet when you see the results of a global survey of just under 20,000 wine drinkers, undertaken by IWSR in October 2022. In the survey, 22% of respondents agreed that organic wine was of “higher quality” than conventionally-made wine. This percentage was even higher for natural wines, with 23% assuming that a natural approach implies quality.

According to IWSR, “a wine bottle label that is focused on natural wine continues to be among the claims that influence wine consumers the most. Consumers – and particularly Millennials in the UK perceive natural wines to be better for human health, as well as having a reduced environmental impact.”

The reason for mentioning natural wines isn’t to pit them against organics, but it’s important in the context of certification.

The story around formal accreditation for natural wines is muddled, with supporters arguing that rules and regulations go against the spirit of the movement. Regardless, self-assessing websites are appearing, and Vin Méthode Nature (VMN) was launched in 2020 and is recognised by the French Ministry for Agriculture. However, to be VMN the wine must be made from certified organic vines. The results of the IWSR research should be on the radar of organic certifiers, with consideration given to how they maintain the quality narrative for organic wines and their producers.

SUSTAINABLE SWAY

“Organic is only part of the sustainable story, and we should be talking about both things because they are absolutely complementary” says Hugo Drappier.

Returning to the 2022 IWSR research, 38% of survey respondents considered sustainable wines to be “more environmentally friendly”, compared to 30% for organic wines.

The percentages support the view of Berry Bros. & Rudd’s (BBR) content officer, Barbara Drew MW, who says: “While organic is certainly part of the broader conversation around sustainability, it’s not the only ‘sustainable’ way of producing wine. At times, a producer that takes a generally sustainable approach wouldn’t be labelled as organic, but may deliver greater environmental benefits.”

Through BBR’s partnership with the Regenerative Viticulture Foundation, Drew says the company has embraced a philosophy of “anyone can help fix the soil”.

She explains: “It is not just about organics or biodynamics, but something that everyone can do. We also aim to consider the full life cycle of the wines we stock – how they get to us at Berry Bros. & Rudd, what they are bottled in, the weight of the bottle, the closure used, etc.

This sits far beyond organics, but is an important conversation in our current climate of emergency.”

When asked by customers about BBR’s organic wine, “we try and give a full view of sustainability, including organic – we advise all customers to look at sustainability in a more holistic way,” says Drew.

If the number of organisations – both state and private – involved in the business of certifying organics today can feel intimidating, sustainability accreditation is, frankly, nuts – and so vast that it would make a terrifying specialist subject for a Mastermind contestant. However, Drew and Drappier are right to put sustainability front and centre of the broader organic narrative. There are myriad excellent wine examples showing the importance of considering them together.

Take González Byass’ Rioja property, Beronia. They have some certified organic vineyards in La Rioja, but it could be argued that their overall environmental impact is more impressive than other estates where all the wines have organic accreditation. Beronia’s winery in La Rioja has been built with the goal to “leave the lightest possible footprint”, and geothermal energy, integrated waste management, efficient use of rain water and reduced noise pollution are all in play. It is the first winery in Europe to be awarded LEED (Leader in Energy Efficiency and Sustainable Design) and is also WfCP (Wineries for Climate Protection) approved. This level of detail needs to be shared with the end consumer, and the more this can be simplified, the better it will be for sales.

Is organic certification worth it? Yes. For those who do it, the trust, clarity and confidence that it gives to consumers is invaluable. Also, among all the producers that db spoke to for this article, there is the intangible desire to maintain the environment for generations to come, which everyone agrees is a priceless legacy.