Gold standard wines from the db Asia Chardonnay Masters 2024

Cecilia Wong gives her breakdown of the best Chardonnay expressions from the drinks business Asia Chardonnay Masters 2024.

Apart from being one of the most widely planted grape varieties in the world, Chardonnay is also one of the most versatile, producing lean and chalky styles like the wines of Chablis, to rich and creamy styles common in California.

Not only is Chardonnay important for still wine, it’s also a big component of many sparkling wines. The words ‘blanc de blancs’ on a Champagne label refer often to a 100%-Chardonnay wine.

It is also a winemaker’s grape, and gives them creativity and freedom to make their wines light and elegant, or full-bodied and complex.

For the drinks business Asia Chardonnay Masters 2024, 22 wines from all over the world, including Italy, Chile, South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand, were tasted blind by a panel of expert judges. Four Master awards were given out, along with seven Gold awards, 10 Silver awards, and one Bronze.

This year’s Chardonnay Masters 2024 panel included: Cecilia Wong, the co-chair of the drinks business Asia Masters; Harnil Mathur, head sommelier, The Magistracy, Black Sheep Restaurants in Hong Kong; and Billy Yeung, head sommelier of One Harbour Road, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong.

The 22 wines were categorised under unoaked or oaked variants, and were judged depending on price range, showcasing the true diversity of expressions. All of the Master medals were given to oaked expressions.

One went to De Bortoli Deen Vat 7 Chardonnay 2022, from Riverina, Australia (price range HK$100–HK$150). Aged in oak for 12 months, it is well balanced with good structure, said the judges. It has a pale gold colour, rounded and aromatic, with white floral, citrus, white peach, brioche and mineral notes. “It has good structure with some new oak touch. It’s a Burgundy-style wine with a sharp and clean finish. It’s good value for money,” said Yeung.

Another Master went to Wakefield Taylors Family Wines St. Andrews Chardonnay 2022, from Clare Valley, Australia (price range HK$201–HK$250). All three judges found it expressive, with refreshing acidity. It was aged in American oak barrels for 18 months, and has a pale gold colour, good acidity, with white floral, citrus, lemon, white peach, creamy and mineral notes. Wong said: “It’s well balanced, aromatic, and with delicate fruit flavours. I like its fresh acidity and clean finish. It’s a lovely wine.”

Church Road 1 Chardonnay 2022, from Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, also won a Master award. Priced between HK$450 and HK$500, the wine was aged in French oak barrels for 11 months. The judges found it aromatic and well structured. Pale gold in colour, the wine is aromatic, and with good acidity, with flint stone, citrus, stone fruit, buttery, mineral, and spice notes. “It has a fresh and complex palate with a long length. It’s creamy and buttery, and the oak is not overpowering. It’s one of the wines that I’ll drink a second glass of,” said Yeung.

The final Master award was given to Hoosegg Seven Heaven Chardonnay 2018, from Orange, Australia (price range HK$700–HK$750). The judges gave it one of the highest marks of the day. Complex, well integrated and with great structure, it is aromatic and complex, with creamy, floral, yeasty, tropical fruit, stone, cinnamon, and mineral notes. Mathur said: “It’s well balanced, with a nice combination of fruit, mineral, spices and fresh acidity. It’s a beautiful wine. It’s like a Meursault wine to me.”

Among the seven Gold awards there was one oaked wine that came in below HK$100. That was Wakefield Taylors Family Wines Special Release Chardonnay 2022, from Adelaide Hills/Clare Valley, Australia, thanks to its “bright and crispy aromas of lemon, lime, and tropical fruit notes”.

Three Golds were awarded in the oaked section between HK$100 and HK$150, including Wakefield Taylors Family Wines Estate Chardonnay 2022, from Adelaide Hills/Limestone Coast, Australia, with “floral, tropical fruit, citrus, mineral and vanilla notes”; De Bortoli Winemaker’s Selection Chardonnay 2022, from Riverina, Australia, with “apricot, honey, pear and well-integrated oak notes”; and Wakefield Taylors Family Wines Jaraman Chardonnay 2023, from Clare Valley/Adelaide Hills, Australia, with “aromatic with tropical fruit, mineral, white peach and yeasty notes”.

In the HK$150-HK$200 range there was one Gold award for an oaked wine. That went to Los Vascos Cromas Chardonnay Gran Reserva 2022, from Colchagua Valley, Chile, with “floral, tropical fruit, lemon zest and mineral notes”.

Another Gold award went to De Bortoli Estate Vineyard Chardonnay 2019, from Yarra Valley, Australia (price range HK$201–HK$250), again oaked, both “crispy and approachable” with “lemon, stone fruit and creamy notes”.

The judges gave the final Gold award to Maso Toresella Chardonnay Trentino Superiore DOC Riserva 2022, from Trentino, Italy. The wine was “expressive and balanced with citrus, lemon zest, stone fruit, and toasty notes”.

Unoaked Still Chardonnay

Oaked Still Chardonnay