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Asti proves it is a region to watch through dozens of medal wins

03 July 2024 By Michael Huband

With an impressive haul at the Global Sparkling Masters, Asti demonstrates the versatility, accessibility and quality of its flagship Moscato.

The two giants of the sparkling wine world, Champagne and Prosecco, are powerhouses for good reason. Each can ship nine-figure quantities of bottles in a year. The two regions also have brands that have made a mark on the international stage, both in commercial prospects and in awards recognition. Both are recognised as UNESCO World Heritage cultural landscapes, protected for their complex heritage.

A third sparkling wine region, however, also fits all three of the above criteria. Asti DOCG, which produces Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti, may fly under the radar compared to these giants, but it is nonetheless a vital player on the global sparkling wine scene. Moreover, in a market with many copycat styles, the wines of Asti have a distinct identity to separate them from the crowd.

In 2022, Asti DOCG produced more than 100 million bottles of its characteristic wine. Although smaller than Champagne and Prosecco, which produce around 300m bottles and more than 600m bottles respectively, it is still a globally significant number. Even accounting for a fall last year to around 90m bottles, it still sits at around twice the sparkling wine production of Australia, or eight times that of England.

Again, like the more famous sparkling regions, Asti has international fame on its side. Alongside small family wineries, renowned producers such as Banfi produce the region’s characteristic wines. Indeed, given its proximity to Barolo and Barbaresco, several wineries making these rich, famously dry reds will also produce Asti’s delicate, sweet sparkling wines. Moreover, as the results (detailed overleaf) from this year’s Global Sparkling Masters demonstrate, Asti’s wines are held in high renown when tasted blind by expert judges. In fact, Asti is the only region to have achieved a Master medal in each of the last four competitions.

As the third point of comparison, since 2014 Asti has been registered as part of the Vineyard Landscape of Piedmont: Langhe-Roero and Monferrato UNESCO World Heritage Site. Nearly 2,000 hectares are protected under the Canelli and Asti Spumante sub-divisions. The designation celebrates “a territory where the vine undisputedly dominates and characterises the landscape thanks to its neat, geometric and well-cared rows disposed on the slopes of the hills”. Describing the natural landscape, managed agriculture and extensive winemaking facilities nicknamed “underground cathedrals”, it recognises an area of rich heritage.

Asti wines differ from their famous counterparts, however, when considering their style. The first Italian spumante was created in the region in 1865, using the traditional method popularised in Champagne. In 1898, however, Federico Martinotti created the Martinotti method, which employs fermentation in a pressurised tank, and which changed the fortunes of Asti.

The region’s characteristic wines, Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti, are the combination of this method and the Moscato grape. The pressurised fermentation in a tank that the wines undergo preserves the varietal aromas while partially fermenting the grape’s sugars and adding effervescence. For Asti Spumante, the resulting wines are 6%–9.5% ABV and more sparkling. They can be produced through the Martinotti method or, occasionally, through the traditional method. For Moscato d’Asti, the end product has less fizz and an ABV of less than 6%, resulting from a single fermentation that is stopped once the desired alcohol level is reached.

Defined by Moscato

Despite that difference, both are defined by Moscato. The grape, also known as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, gives characteristic fruity and floral notes to complement the residual sweetness. Its aromas include lime, acacia and, unusually for a wine, fresh grapes. Although The winemaking adds structure through alcohol and effervescence, much of the grape’s natural charm is preserved.

With a delicate, fresh flavour profile, natural sweetness and low alcohol levels, the wines of Asti DOCG are steadily earning a reputation as versatile options suitable for a variety of occasions. Being both sparkling and sweet, they lend themselves to many situations, and the crowd-pleasing flavours make them an easy choice for a group.

The fine mousse and lower alcohol levels can make them ideal as an aperitivo, opening an evening with lightness and approachability, rather than an austere, less fruity wine. Their natural sweetness also leaves them well-suited to the other end of the meal, being able to match the sugar found in many desserts.

Other occasions, less formal than a full meal, also match the wines. Their lightness, especially in Moscato d’Asti, matches well to events with less hearty foods, such as picnics. There are even some who match them to the fruits and pastries of a breakfast. Of course, with such slight alcohol levels, they are also well-suited to drinking without food, though the temptation to continue into the night may prove dangerous.

Among the many popular pairings for Asti sparkling, fresh fruit comes to the fore. Summer berries match well with the wines, as do the Piedmontese peaches from Canale. More ambitious desserts, such as fruit tarts, sorbets or polenta cake would also work well.

Yet it is not simply for dessert. A number of starters that combine sweet and savoury are also good matches, such as salami with figs. When considering main courses, many enjoy the contrast of spicy Thai curry and the sweet, aromatic wine. If drinking with breakfast, it can match salty bacon as well as buttery croissants.

That versatility is testament to the length and complexity often found in Asti DOCG wines. With a variety of fresh aromas, as well as a range of alcohol levels and effervescence, they can offer lingering, fresh options for a great many occasions. As evidenced by the judges’ comments at our Global Sparkling Masters, they warrant just as much attention as the world’s most famous sparkling wine regions. If the wines continue their winning streak, they may not fly under the radar much longer.

Our expert judges gave medals to more than 40 wines from Asti at The Global Sparkling Masters 2024. A selection of Gold and Master medal-winning bottles is presented here.

Arione Asti Spumante DOCG NV

Producer: Arione
ABV: 7.5%
Residual sugar: 85g/l
Approx. retail price: £7
Medal: Gold

A great example of the inexpensive appeal that can be found with well-made Asti Spumante, this sub-£10 fizz is bursting with grapey-floral aromatics, while in the mouth it combines sweet raisined flavours with a fine, refreshing fizz and a cleansing, zesty edge.

Emilio Vada Camp Bianc Moscato d’Asti 2023

Producer: Emilio Vada
ABV: 5%
Residual sugar: 130g/l
Approx. retail price: £27
Medal: Master

A delicious, sweet, refreshing and low-alcohol sip, rich in flavour and body, with notes of raisins and dried apricots, candied lemon and orange blossom, with a lovely finish, featuring fine bubbles, fresh citrus and a lingering note of ripe, juicy peaches.

Bava Bass Tuba Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2023

Producer: Bava Winery
ABV: 4.5%
Residual sugar: 140g/l
Approx. retail price: £20
Medal: Gold

An intense, richly sweet and finely fizzy drink, with powerful notes of dried fruit, from raisins to figs and prunes, followed by uplifting notes of orange zest and fresh grapes, along with a touch of chalk dust. Delicious, creamy-sweet, but also
bitter-fresh.

Ca’ d’Gal Vite Vecchia Moscato d’Asti 2016

Producer: Ca’ d’Gal
ABV: 5%
Residual sugar: 140g/l
Approx. retail price: £45
Medal: Gold

A fascinating, mature, sweet Moscato, with notes of old furniture, stewed ripe fruit, beeswax and a touch of honey, mixed with overripe tangerine, dried apricot, blood orange and lime zest. Mouth-filling and unctuous, there’s a chalky-textured freshness to the finish, with fine bubbles and some cleansing citrus notes too.

Terrabianca Vignot Moscato d’Asti 2023

Producer: Terrabianca
ABV: 5%
Residual sugar: 135g/l
Approx. retail price: £15
Medal: Gold

A wonderful example of just how enjoyable a good Moscato d’Asti can be: light, ethereal almost, despite the sweetness. The nose is a lovely, ripe, elegant blend of jasmine, grapes and elderflower. On the palate it is intense and focused, with the fresh acidity beautifully balancing its sweetness – it feels fresh, never cloying. The finish is long and vibrant – a palate reviver. Perfect aperitif for a warm summer’s evening, but would also be perfect poured over and accompanying a bowl of fresh, ripe, red berries for dessert.

Vincho Vaglio Valamasca Moscato d’Asti 2023

Producer: Vinchio Vaglio
ABV: 5%
Residual sugar: 135g/l
Approx. retail price: £7.50
Medal: Gold

Fresh and attractive grapey fruit, with jasmine notes and hints of ripe, sweet peaches. Relatively simple, but all its components are in balance and it is a true bargain, with plenty of creamy bubbles and an appealing vibrancy on the palate.

Carlin de Paolo Fiulin Moscato d’Asti 2023

Producer: Carlin de Paolo
ABV: 5.5%
Residual sugar: 127g/l
Approx. retail price: £12
Medal: Gold

Fresh and appealing aromas of grapes, peaches, freshly-cut bananas and honeysuckle. The palate is attractive, with a good balance of sweetness and delicacy. An excellent aperitif wine, with the low alcohol ideal for summer garden parties, and wonderful with a dessert of fresh peaches or a simple pear sorbet.

Ca’du Silé Moscato d’Asti 2023

Producer: Cantina la Torre di Castel Rocchero
ABV: 5%
Residual sugar: 127g/l
Approx. retail price: £10
Medal: Gold

Really attractive nose of honeysuckle, blossom and fresh grapes, with a hint of guava and mango giving a tropical twist. On the palate it is lovely, with its intense sweetness and light alcohol beautifully balanced by fresh acidity. Both delicate and delicious.

Gozzelino Bruna Moscato d’Asti 2023

Producer: Gozzelino Sergio
ABV: 6%
Residual sugar: 134g/l
Approx. retail price: £10
Medal: Gold

A surprisingly complex nose of pure nectarine with a hint of ripe watermelon and white peaches. The palate is intensely luscious and decadent. This is, of course, a wonderful aperitif wine, but I might be tempted to take advantage of that fine sweetness-and-acid balance, and serve it with a rocket and feta salad dressed with pomegranate seeds, olive oil and a dash or two of high-quality balsamic vinegar.