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Unfiltered: Callum McCann

27 March 2024 By Douglas Blyde

The head sommelier of Edinburgh’s Number One at The Balmoral talks to Douglas Blyde about his connection to T.E. Lawrence, the joy of Trimbach, and how trimming the cellar highlighted areas for improvement.

Where does your interest in wine stem from?

When I started in hospitality, I wanted to learn everything about every aspect. It wasn’t until a few years into my career that I truly fell in love with wine on a professional level, and it’s all thanks to a Fino Sherry. A supplier was in for lunch and asked me if I had the chance to taste it. Still being fairly young and naive, I told him I didn’t like Sherry, to which he calmly replied: “You just haven’t tried one you like.” Since then, I have taken that mantra into every tasting.

When did you join Number One at The Balmoral?

1 June 2023.

What did it mean to you to see the hotel recognised as No.2 in the UK at the Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Choice Awards (the top slot in Scotland)?

It was a great achievement for the whole team here at the hotel. Everyone takes pride in what they do, and we all work towards the same goal: to provide world-class Scottish hospitality.

How does Edinburgh differ from Glasgow, where you previously worked with Graeme Cheevers at UNALOME?

Edinburgh benefits more from international tourism, so we get a bit more variety in our dinner guests, but we also still have a great local client base which comes time and time again. I like to think that I bring some West Coast charm and banter to the East with my style of service, but I don’t think I could ever live in Edinburgh. I’ll stick to the commute!

How do guests react to the glass-fronted cellar in the restaurant?

It is a great focal point as you enter the restaurant, even for those who aren’t necessarily wine geeks. We use the cellar for intimate wine and Champagne tastings, which can be tailored to a guest’s wine preferences or selected blind. Plus, chef Mathew Sherry provides some canapés to enjoy while we explore the wines. We also recently added a new private dining room opposite the cellar, so you can enjoy Mathew’s menu with a direct view of the cellar.

How have you bolstered the wine list since taking over?

To start with I actually decreased the listings in order to refine some of the offerings and scale back on some regions which were probably a little bit too dense. We have since started to add some great names and vintages to the list, including Mouton-Rothschild 2008, Sassicaia 2008, and Abadía Retuerta 2015. But I have also been looking to add some signature wines. It has yet to land in the UK, but I was very happy to get my hands on some Dobogó Tokaji Eszencia directly from the winery, which will be going on by the glass or as an optional drizzle over our honey pre-dessert.

What grape deserves to be in the spotlight?

Every grape deserves its spotlight! But I absolutely love Cabernet Franc.

And what could you happily live without?

That’s easy: Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc!

Do you deploy Coravin?

We do, both still and sparkling. It allows us to pour one of my favourite wines, Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling from Trimbach, and Meursault 1er Cru from Domaine Tawse. Things get even more exciting when it comes to red: Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from Silver Oak, and a 2011 Brunello di Montalcino from Biondi-Santi.

What is your favourite table in the house?

In my view, they are all as good as each other. The wine and the food taste the same regardless! However, I am sure others will comment on our lovely upholstered booths.

What ingredients do you love and abhor?

Mathew currently has two of my favourite ingredients on the menu: sweetbreads and rhubarb. Artichokes are a nightmare to match wine to. Personally, I cannot stand bananas!

What is it like working with Mathew Sherry?

It’s been fantastic so far. He plans the dishes for the menu months in advance, which allows me to find the best match possible. But he also takes a real interest in wine pairings and has a palate that is very similar to mine, which helps a lot.

What does he like to drink?

Much like me, he loves anything Trimbach!

Do you prefer an aperitif or digestif?

I would always have both!

Where else in Scotland do you love to eat and drink at?

We are spoiled for choice now with so many fantastic places, so I rarely go to the same restaurant twice in quick succession. I plan to visit Edinbane Lodge on Skye soon.

Are you involved with the spirits selection?

I am responsible for all beverage listings within Number One. I enjoy the spirit side of the list; again, there is so much to learn and taste. Since joining, I have tried to elevate some of our bar listings, but it is definitely an ongoing project.

If you could have a superpower, what would it be?

Not needing to sleep. Being a new parent, you need all the energy you can get!

Who, from history, would you like to sit down to lunch with?

It would be a member of my own family. I would have loved to meet my great-grandfather, Samuel H. Brodie. He served in World War One with Lawrence of Arabia, and is mentioned in his book, Seven Pillars of Wisdom. My wife and I named Samantha, our daughter, after him. As for what we would drink, he would often join T.E. Lawrence, a British archaeologist, army officer, diplomat, and writer, for tea with the local tribes, so I guess some Arabic tea.