Auction update: Beaujolais Bonanza

If Beaujolais is considered the birthplace of natural wine, Marcel Lapierre is one of its forefathers – as more and more wine lovers are discovering.

KNOWN FOR its unique focus on Gamay, fantastic value for money and environmentally-friendly practices, the Beaujolais region of France should capture the attention of every wine enthusiast. In recent years, Beaujolais has increasingly placed quality over quantity, and prices have already begun to reflect this. For example, in 2022 iDealwine auctions, the total value of Beaujolais sales increased by nearly 20%, while volume only increased by 1%.

The region is often cited as the “birthplace of natural winemaking”. Well, if Beaujolais is the birthplace of the natural wine movement, then surely one of its forefathers is Marcel Lapierre.

The Lapierre family has been involved in Beaujolais wine production since 1909, when Michel Lapierre began work as a cellarmaster for Domaine les Chênes. Located in Villié-Morgon, the domaine would eventually become home to the Lapierre winery itself. Following Michel, each successive generation worked for the winery, eventually resulting in the business’s namesake, Marcel, taking over the reins in 1973.

Marcel worked hand-in-hand with renowned chemist Jules Chauvet, deciding in 1981 to vinify Lapierre wines without the use of any added sulphur. Although there are differing opinions on how much added sulphur constitutes “non-natural” winemaking, it is the practice of limiting this additive that forms the basis for natural winemaking today. While natural wines have recently seen an explosion in popularity, Domaine Lapierre has been adhering to the practice for more than four decades.

In addition to the brand’s natural winemaking prowess, Lapierre is also organic and Triple A certified (Agricoltori, Artigiani e Artisti). For those who are unaware of the Triple A certification, it is an emerging label created by Luca Gargano, which is becoming more popular among natural winemakers. Gargano is a renowned collector and importer of wine and spirits based in Italy. The label includes requirements such as massal selection by hand, no chemical additives during vinification, and no synthetic products in the vineyard. Interested wine enthusiasts can find a large selection of Triple A-certified wines on iDealwine.com by applying a filter for the label.

MOST PRESTIGIOUS

Domaine Lapierre’s vineyards stretch across 18 hectares in total, primarily in the Morgon appellation. The classification system in Beaujolais includes: Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages and cru Beaujolais. The cru Beaujolais appellations are considered the most prestigious in the region, and include: St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly. Each of the crus have distinct character traits and microclimates, with those of Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent typically producing the boldest and most concentrated styles. Domaine Lapierre’s highest-quality vines are found in the Côte de Py area of Morgon, which is often considered the most sought-after part of the appellation.

The Côte du Py is unique in that it is the only hill in Morgon. Its stony, granite based soil results in a particularly concentrated wine when compared to its peers in the rest of Morgon.

On iDealwine, prices for Domaine Lapierre can range from €15 to €180 per 750ml bottle at auction. The estate produces six cuvées in total, including a Beaujolais, a Morgon and special editions such as the Cuvée Camille and Cuvée Marcel Lapierre. The highest-priced bottle in 2023 iDealwine auctions was a 1998 Morgon, which sold for €180 in January. This particular lot was a great example of the wonderful potential for the best Beaujolais producers, such as Domaine Lapierre.

However, while Lapierre’s Morgon cuvée may have worn the crown for highest-priced bottle last year, this result was clearly influenced by the vintage, as the highest price tag on average goes to the Cuvée Marcel Lapierre. The starting price for this wine is typically around €32, while older vintages will fetch between €70 and €140. The cuvée is only produced in vintages deemed exceptional, with the grapes being sourced exclusively from the producer’s oldest vines in Côte du Py.

One of the clear takeaways from the prices of Domaine Lapierre is the incredible value that consumers can readily find in Beaujolais. Wines of this quality and ageing potential are extremely difficult to find in France outside this unique region, which has only recently begun appearing more frequently at auction. Therefore, any wine enthusiast looking for renowned, age-worthy natural wines at a great price should place Domaine Lapierre near the top of their list.

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