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Bartenders reflect on experiences at The House of Suntory’s DOJO

08 January 2024 By Michael Huband

The House of Suntory’s DOJO finalists explain how the 2023 programme has brought new perspectives to their bartending.

“I have always known that there exists a deep level of dedication central to Japanese culture,” says Taylor Brown, bar manager at Duck & Waffle in Edinburgh. “But meeting authentic masters of their craft and seeing how every movement, action and decision has a meaning behind it really helped me to understand that everything we do as bartenders exists for a reason.”

As one of the 12 finalists in The House of Suntory’s DOJO programme 2023, Brown has spent much of the year exploring Japanese craft and culture. The DOJO initiative, now in its fourth year, introduces bartenders to Japanese bar culture and craftsmanship, alongside The House of Suntory’s widely respected spirits. Comprising masterclasses, community events and a finale, it was conceived as an ‘immersive experience’ for the UK hospitality industry.

In 2023, The House of Suntory celebrated its 100th anniversary of whisky innovation. To mark the occasion, the DOJO programme expanded significantly. For the first time, the masterclasses toured three UK hospitality hubs: London, Manchester and Edinburgh. Across the summer, running four masterclasses in each city, the DOJO tour engaged with 100 bartenders from influential UK bars.

These masterclasses, the first component of the programme, were guided by The House of Suntory’s three pillars: wa (being in harmony with Japanese nature), omotenashi (experiences of Japanese hospitality and culture) and monozukuri (Japanese craftsmanship). At each event, an expert in a traditional Japanese craft explored their specialism, paired with a spirit from The House of Suntory.

“For me, learning about different approaches to hospitality from the other side of the world was truly eye-opening,” explains Sam McGuigan, another finalist, from Kelvingrove Cafe. Whilst the variety and depth of the masterclasses were widely praised by the finalists, McGuigan was particularly impressed by the “fascinating” tea ceremony masterclass – a masterclass in Japanese hospitality, explored via the traditional tea ceremony, including a tasting of Hibiki. The other events focused on sushi, dashi, and the ikebana tradition of flower arranging (paired with Haku vodka, Toki whisky and Roku gin respectively).

For the finalists, there were significant takeaways from the culturally immersive and educational programme. Blaise Bachelier, of Fox and Chance, says “the programme has reminded me of the strength in doing something simple, but doing it very well.” Meanwhile Amine Fechtal of Swift highlighted how seasonality had been pushed to the front of his thinking in the Roku gin and ikebana masterclass. There were even lessons to take beyond the bar: as Matthew Galloway of Three Sheets remarked, “it has really taught me to appreciate and enjoy each day to the fullest through the small and simple things.”

These masterclasses, however, were only half the story. The ‘Kaizen Challenge’ encouraged participants to apply their newfound knowledge to a classic cocktail. Finalists from each city were then invited to the DOJO finale, held in November. There, the twelve bartenders presented their creations to expert judges, including James Bowker, The House of Suntory’s Global Advocacy Manager; bar master Hidetsugu Ueno of Bar High Five in Tokyo; and award-winning drinks expert, Alice Lascelles.

The term ‘kaizen’ refers to a Japanese ethos of continual improvement, and this was the theme of the contest. The finalists had to take a classic cocktail and, with feedback from The House of Suntory’s team, finesse it into a winning expression. At stake was a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Japan in 2024.

For many of the finalists, the toughest element was working on an existing cocktail. “The biggest challenge I faced on the programme,” says Francesco Cercato of Scarfes Bar, “was accepting that the task was to improve the cocktail rather than changing it.” As one of the two winners, he was inspired by The House of Suntory’s blended whiskies to mix innovation and tradition in his revamped Negroni.

Fechtal of Swift, the other winner, won over the judges with his take on a Corpse Reviver #2. However, he believes the programme has given him far more than one top-tier recipe: “I learned so much throughout the programme, and have been inspired to approach my bartender craftsmanship and lifestyle with more patience and stronger attention to the smaller details.”

Raffaele Di Monaco, The House of Suntory’s UK Brand Ambassador, congratulated the winners, but was keen to emphasise the brilliant work of all involved. “The 12 finalists, guided by our Senpai, showcased remarkable dedication in refining their Kaizen classic cocktails,” he said, “harnessing the core pillars that set Japanese craftsmanship and The House of Suntory apart.” Much like the participants, he believes that the programme’s pillars can be brought into both bartending craft and daily life, a situation he said fills him with “immense pride”.

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