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The best of the Global Malbec Masters 2023
Malbec is changing, and for the better – as the judges at this year’s Global Masters blind tasting of the grape were delighted to discover. Here, db rounds up some of the best bottles from the competition with tasting notes from Patrick Schmitt MW.
DOÑA PAULA ESTATE MALBEC 2022
Producer: Bodega Doña Paula
Region: Gualtallary, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 13.5%
Vintage: 2022
Approx. retail price: £11.99
From Gualtallary, a very high altitude (up to 1,470m) sub-region within Tupungato in the northern part of Mendoza, Bodega Doña Paula produces this excellent Malbec. Warm days and cool nights allow the grapes to achieve good ripeness. This estate wine shows a deep ruby-purple colour, with plums, blackberry and tobacco, and just a hint of leafiness, indicating its high-altitude vineyards. Dry and mid-weight, the palate has crisp acidity and linen-textured tannins. With nicely integrated oak and a warming finish, the wine will match steak-and-kidney pie, or grilled steaks at an autumn barbecue.
TRAPICHE TESORO MALBEC 2021
Producer: Trapiche
Region: La Consulta y Los Chacayes, Valle de Uco, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14%
Vintage: 2021
Approx. retail price: £12
Established in 1883 when Tiburcio
Benegas bought the farm and its then small vineyard, Trapiche is now one of the largest producers in Argentina, with a worldwide reputation for quality. Trapiche produces a wide range of Malbecs. Tesoro comes from La Consulta, with its sandy loam soils, and Los Chacayes, from a small river valley at the foot of the Andes. The wine – really good value – has a deep ruby-purple colour, with bramble, Victoria plum and raspberry fruit, highlighted with vanilla pod and cigarbox from ageing in French and American oak. Sweet-fruited, there is plenty of interest on the palate, which shows lively acidity and abundant, velvet-textured tannins. A fine choice to pair with a spicy Moroccan-style venison tagine.
BREAD AND BUTTER MALBEC 2022
Producer: Bread and Butter
Region: Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%
Vintage: 2022
Approx. retail price: £16
From grapes grown in the high-altitude vineyards of the Uco Valley in Mendoza comes this distinctive Malbec. Deep purple in hue, the wine has brambles, Victoria plums and strawberry, with meringue and cigar-box nuances. Dry and full-bodied, the palate flavours are framed by crisp acidity and abundant, velvet-textured tannins. A well-defined wine with excellent length and depth of flavour, this would work well with rump steak, roast potatoes and grilled sweetcorn.
MASCOTA VINEYARDS LA MASCOTA MALBEC 2021
Producer: Mascota Vineyards
Region: La Maipú, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14%
Vintage: 2021
Approx. retail price: £16
Under the guidance of master winemaker Rodolfo ‘Opi’ Sadler, Mascota has reached great heights with Bordeaux varieties. In the eastern section of Mendoza, at the foot of the Andes with a deep aquifer to hold water, Mascota has vineyards giving this seductive Malbec. Deep ruby-purple in hue, the wine has vivid dark fruits, bramble and plums, accented by mocha and liquorice. Quite full-bodied, there is good flavour definition, supported by brisk acidity and grainy tannins. Mineral and spice notes add extra dimensions. Really rather delicious with lamb moussaka.
ALPAMANTA ESTATE MALBEC 2021
Producer: Alpamanta Estate
Region: Ugarteche, Luján de Cujo, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5% Vintage: 2021
Approx. retail price: £22
The vineyards are located at the southwestern edge of Luján de Cuyo, with an altitude of around 900m and sandier soils. Influenced by the Andes to the west, the local climate is continental, with warm days but much cooler nights. Alpamanta, meaning ‘Love for the Earth’, has vineyards tended using organic and biodynamic techniques. This wine, deep ruby-purple in colour, shows soft blueberry, bramble and dark plum fruit, with accents of tobacco and toast from ageing in French oak. Dry, the full-bodied palate is warming, but balanced by brisk acidity and grainy tannins. Kitchen spices and a gentle caramel note add interest. Rack of lamb – rare – with rosemary and redcurrant sauce would make a good pairing.
BODEGAS BIANCHI PARTICULAR MALBEC 2020
Producer: Bodegas Bianchi
Region: San Rafael, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5% Vintage: 2020
Approx. retail price: £22
Bodegas Bianchi’s winemaker Silvio Alberto produces this wine from grapes grown in Finca Asti, Las Paredes and San Rafael using sustainable growing practices and minimal intervention in the winery. Twelve months in French oak adds interest and depth to a wine destined for long ageing. The wine has a deep purpleblack colour, with intense, summer pudding fruits, and vanilla and cream oak. The palate is dry, full and rich, balanced by crisp acidity and dense, grainy-textured tannins. Plenty of allspice on the finish, warming and lengthy, the wine, although youthful, will make a good match now with venison, onions, prunes and pickled walnuts, accented with thyme.
CHÂTEAU DE HAUTE-SERRE GEORGES 2020
Producer: Château de Haute-Serre, Georges Vigouroux SAS
Region: AOP Cahors, Occitanie
Country: France
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 13% Vintage: 2020
Approx. retail price: £23
The site has had vineyards since medieval times, when the property was owned by the Abbey Lagarde de Dieu in the Tarn-et-Garonne. Georges Vigouroux and his team have cultivated the replanted vineyards on Kimmeridgian clay soils since 1973. The vines, on the hills overlooking the River Lot, absorb plenty of sunshine to ripen Malbec perfectly. Deep ruby-purple in colour, the wine exhibits red and black fruits, with undertones of tobacco and nutmeg from ageing in 400litre French oak casks. Beautifully balanced, with lively acidity and velvettextured tannins supporting the flavours, the wine is quite full-bodied with black pepper and spice on the finish. A wine suitable for duck cassoulet from the region, or another richly sauced meat dish.
DOMAINE BOUSQUET GRAN ORGANIC MALBEC 2021
Producer: Domaine Bousquet
Region: Gualtallary, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape varieties: 85% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 5% Syrah
ABV: 14.5%
Vintage: 2021
Approx. retail price: £25
The Bousquet family are fourth-generation winegrowers from Carcassonne. A trip to Argentina in 1990 convinced them to grow grapes in Gualtallary, an area with vines that locals thought to be too cold and high. This Malbec has a deep ruby-purple colour and blackberry fruit, accented by smoke and a hint of balsamic. Sweet-fruited, it has bracing acidity and abundant, velvet-textured tannins. The juicy mid-palate is nicely defined with a savoury finish. A perfect wine to pair with roast grouse and watercress salad with walnut oil and red wine vinegar.
ALPAMANTA RESPECT MALBEC 2021
Producer: Alpamanta Estate,
Region: Luján de Cuyo, Ugarteche, Mendoza
Country: Argentina,
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%,
Vintage: 2021
Approx. retail price: £30
The vineyards are located at the southwestern edge of Luján de Cuyo, with an altitude of around 900m on sandy alluvial soils. With the scenic backdrop of the Andes Mountains, there is no better place for peripatetic Dutch winemaker Andrej Razumovsky to practice biodynamic techniques. Deep ruby-hued, the wine exhibits blackberry, blueberry and strawberry fruit, with a cigar-box overlay. Juicy and mid-weight, the palate has lively acidity, linen-textured tannins and a balsamic note adding interest. With good definition and length, the wine would suit Cajun-style red beans and ham hocks on long-grained rice.
BODEGAS BIANCHI ENZO BIANCHI GRAN MALBEC 2020
Producer: Bodegas Bianchi
Region: Los Chacayes, Valle de Uco, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%
Vintage: 2020
Approx. retail price: £45
Bianchi produces a range of icon wines, including this, named after founder Enzo Bianchi and a wine destined for long cellaring. It has a deep ruby-purple colour, and lovely red and black plum fruit, accented by vanilla and cedarwood. The sweet-fruited, mid-weight palate is framed by crisp acidity and dense, silky-textured tannins. A beautifully balanced, graceful wine with excellent length. It will match poussin stuffed with wild rice, served with a red wine-redcurrant sauce.
SALENTEIN SINGLE VINEYARD LOS CEREZOS MALBEC 2019
Producer: Bodegas Salentein
Region: Valle de Uco, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%
Vintage: 2019
Approx. retail price: £45
The vineyards and winery are located in the Uco Valley, where the three vineyards are at altitudes of 1,050m to 1,700m. At San Pablo Ranch (1,700m) are some of the highest vineyards in the world. This single vineyard Malbec, Los Cerezos, is deep ruby-purple in hue, showing blueberry, blackberry and dark plum fruit, accented by toasty oak and hints of earth and violets. On the palate, the wine’s flavours are supported by brisk acidity and grippy tannins, and plenty of kitchen spices. A fine pairing would be oxtail with vegetables, bay and thyme, slow-cooked in beef stock and red wine.
FINCA FLICHMAN DEDICADO MICROTERROIR GRAVEL AND STONE 2019
Producer: Finca Flichman
Region: Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%
Vintage: 2019
Approx. retail price: £55
Finca Flichman’s Dedicado label honours the importance Don Flichman attached to friendship. The wine is deep purple-coloured, aromatic, with blackberry and cranberry enhanced by toast and butter notes, and a floral lift. The palate is fullbodied, with crisp acidity and dense silky tannins. Ripe and round with a lingering finish, it would match gourmet chilli burgers with lean beef spiced with a little soy sauce and Worcestershire sauce, parsley and a seeded red chilli pepper, served in crusty brioche buns with feta cheese, lettuce and juicy beef tomatoes.
CHÂTEAU DE MERCUÈS 6666 AOP CAHORS 2020
Producer: Château de Mercuès, Georges Vigouroux SAS
Region: Cahors, Occitanie,.
Country: France,
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%,
Vintage: 2020,
Approx. retail price: £55
Georges Vigouroux’s top priority when he purchased the château in 1983 was to restructure the vineyards on the largely gravel hillocks surrounding it. Overlooking the River Lot, they have 6,666 vines per hectare – hence the cuvée’s name. The resulting wine is a revelation. Deep purple in colour, it exhibits intense blackberry and blueberry fruit, with vanilla and cigar-box from 15 months in oak. Beautifully balanced and well-integrated, with fresh acidity and velvet tannins supporting the full flavours. Stylish wine, another one for roasted silverside beef, but because of the freshness will also work nicely with strong French cheeses or dark chocolate mousse.
BEMBERG ESTATE WINES LA INTERNA MALBEC FINCA EL TOMILLO, PARCELA #5 2016
Producer: Bemberg Estate Wines
Region: Gualtallary, Valle de Uco, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%
Vintage: 2016,
Approx. retail price: £75
At 1,210m on sand over limestone soils in Gualtallary comes this wine from Finca El Tomillo. It is deep ruby-purple in colour, showing crunchy black fruits with liquorice, cloves and wild herbs, dried grass and white truffle accents. Dry and quite full-bodied, it is nonetheless elegant, with racy acidity and linen-textured tannins. Hints of wild game and leather add complexity and depth. With its savoury palate and finish, this would be a good pairing for rabbit paella with broad beans, garlic, onions and smoky-sweet paprika.
TERRAZAS DEL LOS ANDES PARCEL LICÁN MALBEC 2020
Producer: Terrazas de los Andes
Region: Los Chacayes, Valle de Uco, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.8%
Vintage: 2020
Approx. retail price: £75
Parcel Licán is at 1,200m altitude in the relatively new GI of Los Chacayes in the Uco Valley, in the foothills of the Andes in the Tunuyán region. First planted by the Lurtons in 1996, the sub-region has exploded, with 1,800ha of vines throughout the area, and is recognised as producing some of the best Malbecs in Argentina. This wine, deep ruby-purple in hue, has bramble fruit and dark chocolate in a brooding style. Dry, concentrated, the flavours are well supported by lively acidity and dense, velvet-textured tannins with herbes de Provence notes coming through. Savoury and long, the wine seems a good pairing for succulent roast lamb with a mint sauce.
TERRAZAS DE LOS ANDES PARCEL LOS CASTAÑOS MALBEC 2020
Producer: Terrazas de los Andes
Region: Paraje Altamira, Valle de Uco, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.2%
Vintage: 2020
Approx. retail price: £80
Parcel Los Castaños is in the Paraje Altamira on loamy, alluvial soils of sand, clay and silt. Deep ruby purple in colour, the wine shows blackberry, blueberry and Morello cherry fruit, with milk chocolate and smoke overtones. Sweet-fruited, the palate has brisk acidity and dense, silky-textured tannins. Well-balanced and integrated with layers of flavours in an enticing style, this superb wine seems a good match for venison haunch, marinated in red wine.
BODEGA NORTON LOTE SINGLE VINEYARD LA COLONIA MALBEC 2022
Producer: Bodega Norton
Region: Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%
Vintage: 2022
Approx. retail price: £40
With vines that have an average age of 30 years old, with some up to 80 years old, and set in five different sub-zones of Mendoza, Bodega Norton is iconic. La Colonia comes from the highaltitude sub-region of Luján de Cuyo and is made using indigenous yeasts. Deep ruby-purple in colour, the wine shows dark berries and plums, with vanilla and cedarwood accents. Dry, ripe and full-bodied, the palate is framed by lively acidity and linentextured tannins. An intriguing herbal note adds interest and lifts the finish. A good pairing might be pheasant pot-au-feu or rôtisserie chicken.
SALENTEIN SINGLE VINEYARD LA PAMPA MALBEC 2019
Producer: Bodegas Salentein
Region: Valle de Uco, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Vintage: 2019
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%
Approx. retail price: £37.50
A dense, generous Malbec with sweet oak flavours of coconut and chocolate, married to characters of fleshy ripe cherry and juicy plums, with some violets and spice, then plenty of dry, fine tannins. Persistent and delicious.
ENRIQUE FOSTER FIRMADO
Producer: Bodega Foster Lorca
Region: Uco Valley, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Vintage: 2019
Grape Variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%
Approximate retail price: £90
The deep violet colour points to the depth and complexity of this lovely wine. The nose is intense and many-layered, with violets, lavender and mulberry, and hints of black cherry, overlaid with spicy notes of almonds and a touch of clove. The fruit core is dense, with marked yet fine-grained tannins, warming alcohol and a refreshing acidity. The oak is very well-integrated, and the finish harmonious, long and deep. Delicious now, but this wine will benefit from a further three to five years of patience.
MAURICIO LORCA GRANDES VARIETALES MALBEC
Producer: Bodega Foster Lorca
Region: Uco Valley
Country: Argentina
Grape Variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%
Vintage: 2019
Approximate retail price: £75
The second Master from this clearly classy bodega has a cherry-edged rim and a deep violet core. On the nose, it is complex, with mulberry, rosemary and bayleaf, with a hint of fragrant tea roses and crushed morello cherries. The palate is really lovely – deep, harmonious and perfectly balanced, with firm tannins and bright, high acid. This is a wine that has a lot and holds it very well. It would benefit from a bit of time – perhaps three years – to soften the tannic grip, but if you really cannot wait to drink it, a rare steak would be a delicious accompaniment.
TAYLOR MADE MALBEC
Producer: Wakefield/Taylors Wines
Region: Clare Valley
Country: Australia,
Grape Variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 13.5%
Vintage: 2022
Approximate retail price: £20
A rare Australian Malbec in our tasting flight, this wine shows that Argentina – while still world-leading – cannot rest on its laurels. From the Clare Valley, this wine has a freshness and precision true to its origins. It is a very young wine, and has a delicious fruit core, with attractive dark berry fruit, especially mulberry and blackberry, with hints of bayleaf and mint, and some black cherry and plum notes. Crunchy and refreshing, with a bit of tannic tension to balance the juiciness on the palate.
AMERI SINGLE VINEYARD ORGANIC MALBEC
Producer: Domaine Bousquet
Region: Alto Gualtallary
Country: Argentina
Grape Variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%
Vintage: 2021
Approximate retail price: £28
A gorgeous nose of mulberry, blackberry and white currant, with some garrigue herbs and lavender, and a little vanilla and clove spice. Although high, the alcohol is very well-balanced and beautifully integrated. Both intense and fresh on the palate, with a good textural weave. A perfect pairing would be lamb, slow-cooked over a fire scented with rosemary, but lamb stuffed with garlic roasted in in your oven would do almost as well – as long as you eschew the mint sauce.
TERRAZAS DE LOS ANDES ORIGEN LAS COMPUERTAS
Producer: Terrazas de los Andes
Region: Las Compuertas
Country: Argentina
Grape Variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.4%
Vintage: 2021
Approximate retail price: £20
A very prettily fruited wine, this has bright blackberry and blueberry aromatics, with hints of sweet spice and vanilla. On the palate, it is fullbodied and intense, the black fruit concentrated and charming. Warming alcohol, but well-balanced with well-resolved tannins, excellent freshness, a plush mid-palate and a long, quite juicy, finish.
LOS HELECHOS RESERVA MALBEC
Producer: Fecovita
Region: Uco Valley, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Vintage: 2022
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.3%,
Approx. retail price: £10
An excellent-value, crowd-pleasing Malbec, delivering masses of red and black berry fruit, peppery spice, and vanilla pod and coconut husk notes too, with plenty of chunky, dry tannins to bring a mouth-watering edge to this generous red.
EL ENEMIGO MALBEC 2020
Producer: El Enemigo Wines
Region: Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Vintage: 2020,
Grape varieties: 90% Malbec, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
ABV: 13.5%
Approx. retail price: £19
A rich and ripe red, with some dark cherry and ripe raspberry fruit, combined with flavours of sweet oak, from caramel to chocolate, and a subtle note of cracked black pepper. The finish is dry, with plenty of grippy tannins to coat the mouth.
SALENTEIN NUMINA MALBEC 2021
Producer: Bodegas Salentein
Region: Uco Valley, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Vintage: 2021
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%
Approx. retail price: £30
A fine and fleshy Malbec, with black cherry and juicy red berry notes, allied to chilli pepper spice, then chocolate-tasting barrel-sourced characters, with plenty of fine, dry tannins, as well as some plum-like brighter notes to refresh.
GRAN MASCOTA
Producer: Mascota Vineyards
Region: Maipú, Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Vintage: 2020
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%,
Approx. retail price: £23
An intense and complex Mendozan Malbec, with layers of flavour from Morello cherry to purple plum, chocolate and roasted coffee, cedar and pepper, and then plenty of firm, dry tannins that linger and make the mouth water.
DOÑA PAULA SELECCIÓN DE BODEGA MALBEC
Producer: Bodega Doña Paula,
Region: Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Country: Argentina,
Vintage: 2020,
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%,
Approx. retail price: £45
This top expression from Doña Paula is crammed with appealing flavours, from cherry and blackberry to violets and plums, along with dark chocolate, creamy coffee and cracked black pepper, with a long, fresh finish, featuring plenty of ripe, mouth-coating tannins. malbec masters
CATENA ZAPATA MALBEC ARGENTINO
Producer: Catena Zapata
Region: Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Vintage: 2021
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 13.9%
Approx. retail price: £80
A really fine, age-worthy and powerful Malbec, with a complex mix of complementary flavours, including plums and cherry, rose petals and milk chocolate, with a touch of caramel and vanilla pod too. Fleshy, concentrated, but not overdone, the wine finishes with a fresh fruit lift and a mouth-coating hit of dry, fine tannin.
LA ROCHE MÈRE
Producer: Crocus
Region: Occitanie
Country: France
Vintage: 2020
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14%
Approx. retail price: £85
An outstanding expression of Malbec from south-west France, this wine made in partnership with US consultant Paul Hobbs is floral, fruity and delicious. There are notes of dark chocolate and cedar, matched to ripe fruit characters of black cherry and blueberry, framed by lots of grippy tannins and some peppery spice. A youthful wine that’s lovely now, but has the potential to age and develop more complexity over time.
PYROS LIMESTONE HILL MALBEC 2019
Producer: Pyros
Region: Valle de Pedernal
Country: Argentina
Vintage: 2019
Grape variety: 100% Malbec
ABV: 14.5%
Approx. retail price: £85
A delicious, generous, warming, but refreshing Malbec with concentrated red and dark berry fruit, plums and cherries, with notes of cracked black pepper, cedarwood, dried herbs, and a mouth-watering mix of dry, fine, dense tannins and fresh acidity.
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