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Château de Pommard embraces biodynamics in Clos Marey-Monge

13 October 2023 By Michael Huband

Clos Marey-Monge, Burgundy’s largest privately owned vineyard has converted to biodynamic viticulture, aiming to enhance the unique terroir.

Rows of old vines protected by walls, a centuries old mansion and a village clock tower in the distance: Clos Marey-Monge is as close to stereotypical Burgundy as you could imagine. Yet, in a region that values each plot for its unique identity, owner Château de Pommard is using biodynamics to promote the vineyard’s identity even further.

Established in 1726, Château de Pommard has a reputation of nearly three centuries to protect. Likewise, the star vineyard has a long-established prestige. “The name Marey-Monge has reverberations all over the region,” explains head winemaker Paul Negrerie. “In this way we have a duty to that pedigree, those traditions, that we have to work hard to live up to.”

The vineyard’s biodynamic conversion, started in 2017, is this duty to traditions and terroir in action. Château de Pommard took the decision intending to reconnect with the natural environment and maximise its natural resources.

Château de Pommard is in a privileged position. Sitting just east of the town of Pommard, only a country road separates Clos Marey-Monge from renowned premier crus. Unlike many famous Burgundy sites, however, the vineyard team can operate with autonomy. The vineyard is the region’s largest privately owned clos, amounting to 20 hectares of Pinot Noir across seven sub-plots. With this independence comes opportunity, guiding the team to a flagship monopole cuvée that can express the entire vineyard.

Extensive geological research in 2009 highlighted the site’s unusually high clay content, a cooling influence that keeps Pinot Noir elegant and lively. Negrerie is proud to declare the terroir very special, even by Burgundy’s standards. “For a winemaker,” he says, “this is a heavenly playground!”

The vineyard is now farmed entirely according to biodynamic principles. The process, carefully controlled preparations and treatments tied to seasonal and lunar rhythms, has significantly changed the team’s working practices. Although a natural progression from organic viticulture, the team had to learn to stick to specific schedules, necessitating greater organisation and a larger workforce. They also took on additional jobs, for instance in growing their own materials for biodynamic preparations.

Still, their enthusiasm is stronger than ever. “I would never accept a position in a conventional domain,” declares tractor driver Mado. “I need to be in harmony with nature.”

The process, like many in Burgundy, is not quick. The team began organic conversion in 2016 and started the biodynamic journey one year later. After a three year certification process and two years of ageing, the first certified organic wines reached drinkers in 2021. The first biodynamic certified vintage, from the 2021 harvest, launched earlier this year.

The changes, however, have been obvious, even early on the Château’s biodynamic path. “The changes can be seen on the ground,” says vineyard manager Jean-Rémi Fray. “More living creatures, more weeds, a more vibrant colour and better texture to the soil.” They are also seeing new energy in the resulting wines.

Even with much work to do in continuing the biodynamic project, there is a spirit of dynamism in the vineyard. They see themselves as trailblazers in the region, and advocates for biodynamics to consumers. The graft is hard, but Fray hopes the message to drinkers is simple: “you can be kind to your environment and still make a world class product.”

Three vintages of the monopole cuvée, covering the period of biodynamic conversion, won Gold medals at the drinks business Autumn Tasting 2023. Below are tasting notes from Patricia Stefanowicz MW.

Château de Pommard Clos Marey-Monge Monopole 2017

Grape variety : 100% Pinot Noir
Abv: 13.0%
Vintage: 2017
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £100.00
Medal: Gold – Autumn Tasting 2023

This wine, still ruby in colour, has subtle red cherry, cranberry, and wild strawberry fruit with accents of hedgerow and smoky oak. Dry, rather linear, reflecting the vintage conditions, the wine shows very fresh acidity with a citrus nuance, grippy tannins and decent strength of flavour in the mid-palate. As yet unknit, the wine might be a bit like 1962 as it matures further. A young-tasting wine, it requires a supple-textured dish, such as a house-made steak and kidney pie with perfectly done soft-crust pastry, or perhaps just steak-tartare (and its condiments) with toasted granary bread.

Château de Pommard Clos Marey-Monge Monopole 2019

Grape variety : 100% Pinot Noir
Abv: 13.0%
Vintage: 2019
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £100.00
Medal: Gold – Autumn Tasting 2023

A worthy example of the 2019 vintage, this wine is aromatic, showing crushed rose petals, gentle vanilla and toast overlying cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruit. The mid-weight palate has excellent balance with supporting structure of bracing acidity, satin-textured tannins and moderate alcohol followed by a lovely, lingering finish. A very fine wine that will match veal cutlets, simply prepared, or pork loin with apricots and cream.

Château de Pommard Clos Marey-Monge Monopole 2020

Grape variety : 100% Pinot Noir
Abv: 14.0%
Vintage: 2020
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £100.00
Medal: Gold – Autumn Tasting 2023

The Château’s seven plots in the Clos comprise a total of 20 hectares, enclosed by a traditional 2m high limestone wall (hence, Clos), and have a range of soils, dominated by red marl-clay over the limestone base. These soils with southeast exposure provide the perfect environment for Pinot Noir. And, the 2020, a low-yielding vintage, is exceptional. Deep ruby in colour, the wine exhibits black fruits, Morello cherries, dark chocolate and roasted nuts on the nose. The palate is full, rich and warm framed by fresh lemony acidity and abundant grainy-textured tannins with good length. A winter wine that will suit venison or grouse.

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