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All the winners from the Bordeaux Masters 2023
The Bordeaux Masters competition looks not only at wines from the French region, but also those sold through La Place, as Patrick Schmitt MW outlines.
If one looks back to the start of this century, the fine wine market was dominated by Bordeaux. Today, its share of trade, according to Liv-ex, has fallen to below 40%, with the rest taken up by an expanding range of sources, but especially Burgundy, Champagne and Tuscany.
But Bordeaux’s declining proportion of secondary market trading is primarily a sign of the market broadening, rather than Bordeaux declining. Indeed, this single French wine region’s power in the fine wine market has been expanding, just not in terms of production volumes, but trading, as Bordeaux’s distribution system, La Place, has become the go-to tool for top-end labels, wherever they hail from.
Selling fine wines from outside Bordeaux, known among the French negociants as hors Bordeaux, is not new, but while it was once just a handful of labels – many of which were owned or backed by the Bordelais – now La Place handles an extraordinary array of bottles from single vineyard Champagne (Clos Lanson) to sweet wine from South Africa (Vin de Constance).
So, when it comes to our inaugural Bordeaux Masters, we decided to rate the wines that are sold through Bordeaux, as well as those made in Bordeaux. Why? As these wines are handled in the same manner, reaching similar clients, and competing with Bordeaux in the fine wine market, it made sense to us to compare them in style and quality with the best from the great benchmark region.
That means that the wines featured are a reflection of the wines that sell through La Place de Bordeaux, wherever they are from, rather than a strict tasting of Bordeaux. And with that in mind, what’s greatest? Well, Bordeaux is still home to extremely fine, long-lived wines, with, notably, bottlings that are surprisingly easy to drink in a youthful state – and much more so than they would have been a decade ago. Helped by warm, dry growing conditions in recent vintages, as well as improved viticulture and winemaking, the idea that fine Bordeaux can’t be drunk within a few years of bottling is no longer true.
Proof of this came in the delicious 2020 expression of Pessac-Leognan’s Château Malartic Lagravière, or the 2018 vintage of St Emilion’s Château La Grace Dieu des Prieurs. Both producers were also the makers of outstanding white wines too – the former a lesson in how to craft ageworthy, barrel-influenced Sauvignon Blanc. As for the latter, Château La Grace Dieu des Prieurs was the source of one of the competition’s most surprising and lovely wines. Made with Chardonnay planted on Saint-Emilion’s limestone soils, it tasted like a grand cru Bourgogne Blanc, but, despite its quality, qualified as Vin de France: Chardonnay falls outside the rules of the Bordeaux appellation. More affordable than both these wines was the dry white from famous Sauternes producer Château Suduiraut. Crammed with ripe citrus and a touch of tropical fruit, complemented by a subtle creaminess from partial barrel-ageing, it delivers a lot of refreshing wine for £20.
The same could be said of our sole sweet wine – a Sichel Sauternes 2020 with plenty of honey, dried apricot, candied orange and vanilla pod notes for a touch more than £15 for a half-bottle. In fact, if one looks at the Gold-medallists from the competition, it’s notable how much great Bordeaux is affordable – that is relative to fine wines from elsewhere in the world. We had delicious, age-worthy structured Merlot and Cabernet blends from across Bordeaux that were priced below £40, with two of them retailing for sub-£20.
Still White – Unoaked
Winery | Name of wine | Vint. | Medal |
Under £10 | |||
Dourthe | N°1 de Dourthe | 2022 | Silver |
£10-£15 | |||
Château Argadens | Château Argadens AOC Bordeaux Blanc | 2022 | Silver |
Mouton Cadet | Blanc | 2022 | Silver |
Still White – Oaked
Winery | Name of wine | Vint. | Medal |
£10-£15 | |||
Château Suduiraut | Lions de Suduiraut Blanc Sec | 2022 | Gold |
£50-£70 | |||
Château Malartic-Lagravière | Grand Cru Classé | 2018 | Gold |
£100+ | |||
Château La Grace Dieu des Prieurs | Elena | 2021 | Master |
Still Red – Unoaked
Winery | Name of wine | Vint. | Medal |
£10-£15 | |||
Maison Sichel | 1883 AOC Bordeaux Red | 2022 | Bronze |
Still Red – Oaked
Winery | Name of wine | Vint. | Medal |
£10-£15 | |||
Dourthe | La Grande Cuvée | 2020 | Gold |
Château Argadens | Château Argadens AOC Bordeaux Supérieur Red | 2019 | Silver |
Mouton Cadet | Mouton Cadet Rouge Bio | 2022 | Silver |
Maison Sichel | Bordeaux Sichel AOC Bordeaux Red | 2019 | Silver |
Mouton Cadet | Mouton Cadet Rouge | 2021 | Silver |
Producta Vignobles | Roc de Lussac | 2020 | Silver |
Château Siran | Saint Jacques de Siran | 2019 | Bronze |
Vignerons de Puisseguin Lussac Saint-Emilion | Les Vieux Chênes | 2019 | Bronze |
Château Recougne | Château Recougne | 2020 | Bronze |
Dourthe | Château Pey la Tour | 2021 | Bronze |
£15-£20 | |||
Château Tour Bayard | Château Tour Bayard | 2020 | Gold |
Vignerons de Puisseguin Lussac Saint-Emilion | La Pruladière | 2019 | Silver |
Mouton Cadet | Sélection Côtes de Bordeaux | 2020 | Silver |
Mouton Cadet | Cuvée Héritage | 2020 | Silver |
Winery | Name of wine | Vint. | Medal |
£20-£30 | |||
Château Doyac | Château Doyac | 2020 | Gold |
Exploitation Vinicole Benjamin de Rothschild | Château des Laurets | 2018 | Gold |
Cos d’Estournel | G d’Estournel | 2019 | Silver |
Les Vignobles André Lurton | Château de Cruzeau | 2019 | Silver |
Exploitation Vinicole Benjamin de Rothschild | Château de Malengin Eve | 2020 | Silver |
Vignerons de Puisseguin Lussac Saint-Emilion | Peraclos | 2019 | Silver |
Vignerons de Puisseguin Lussac Saint-Emilion | Les Caillonnes | 2019 | Silver |
Les Vignobles André Lurton | Château de Rochemorin | 2017 | Silver |
Vignobles Jade | Fontfleurie | 2019 | Silver |
Château Malartic-Lagravière | Le Comte de Malartic Pessac Leognan | 2019 | Silver |
£30-£50 | |||
Château Malartic-Lagravière | Grand Cru Classé | 2020 | Master |
Château Mazeyres | Château Mazeyres | 2018 | Gold |
Château Boutisse | Château Boutisse | 2019 | Gold |
Château Malartic-Lagravière | Grand Cru Classé | 2018 | Gold |
Jean-Noël Boidron | Château Corbin Michotte | 2020 | Silver |
£50-£70 | |||
Château Malartic-Lagravière | Grand Cru Classé | 2016 | Gold |
£100+ | |||
Château La Grace Dieu des Prieurs | Saint-Emilion Grand Cru | 2018 | Master |
Still White – Sweet
Winery | Name of wine | Vint. | Medal |
£15-£20 | |||
Maison Sichel | Sichel Sauternes AOC Sauternes | 2020 | Gold |
International wines sold on La Place
Winery | Name of wine | Country | Region | Vint. | Medal |
£50-£70 | |||||
Caiarossa | Rosso di Toscana IGT | Italy | Tuscany | 2020 | Gold |
£70-£100 | |||||
Viña Maquis | Maquis Franco | Chile | Colchagua | 2012 | Master |
Viña Maquis | Maquis Viola | Chile | Colchagua | 2010 | Gold |
Viña Maquis | Maquis Franco | Chile | Colchagua | 2016 | Gold |
Viña Maquis | Maquis Viola | Chile | Colchagua | 2015 | Gold |
£100+ | |||||
VIK | VIK | Chile | Cachapoal | 2019 | Master |
Morlet Family Vineyards | Coeur de Vallée | USA | Napa Valley | 2019 | Master |
Morlet Family Vineyards | Coeur de Vallée | USA | Napa Valley | 2020 | Gold |
Morlet Family Vineyards | Coeur de Vallée | USA | Napa Valley | 2018 | Gold |
Morlet Family Vineyards | Coeur de Vallée | USA | Napa Valley | 2013 | Gold |
Morlet Family Vineyards | Coeur de Vallée | USA | Napa Valley | 2007 | Gold |
About the competition
With high-quality judges and a unique sampling process, The Bordeaux Masters provides a chance for your wines to star. The 2023 competition was judged on 14 April at COMO The Halkin, London, employing experienced judges. The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver, or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Bordeaux Master. This report features the medal winners only.
Please visit the Global Masters website for more information, or, to enter future competitions – giving you the chance to feature online and in print – please call: +44 (0) 20 7803 2420 or email Sophie Raichura at: sophie@thedrinksbusiness.com
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