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All the winners from the Bordeaux Masters 2023

The Bordeaux Masters competition looks not only at wines from the French region, but also those sold through La Place, as Patrick Schmitt MW outlines.

If one looks back to the start of this century, the fine wine market was dominated by Bordeaux. Today, its share of trade, according to Liv-ex, has fallen to below 40%, with the rest taken up by an expanding range of sources, but especially Burgundy, Champagne and Tuscany.

But Bordeaux’s declining proportion of secondary market trading is primarily a sign of the market broadening, rather than Bordeaux declining. Indeed, this single French wine region’s power in the fine wine market has been expanding, just not in terms of production volumes, but trading, as Bordeaux’s distribution system, La Place, has become the go-to tool for top-end labels, wherever they hail from.

Selling fine wines from outside Bordeaux, known among the French negociants as hors Bordeaux, is not new, but while it was once just a handful of labels – many of which were owned or backed by the Bordelais – now La Place handles an extraordinary array of bottles from single vineyard Champagne (Clos Lanson) to sweet wine from South Africa (Vin de Constance).

So, when it comes to our inaugural Bordeaux Masters, we decided to rate the wines that are sold through Bordeaux, as well as those made in Bordeaux. Why? As these wines are handled in the same manner, reaching similar clients, and competing with Bordeaux in the fine wine market, it made sense to us to compare them in style and quality with the best from the great benchmark region.

That means that the wines featured are a reflection of the wines that sell through La Place de Bordeaux, wherever they are from, rather than a strict tasting of Bordeaux. And with that in mind, what’s greatest? Well, Bordeaux is still home to extremely fine, long-lived wines, with, notably, bottlings that are surprisingly easy to drink in a youthful state – and much more so than they would have been a decade ago. Helped by warm, dry growing conditions in recent vintages, as well as improved viticulture and winemaking, the idea that fine Bordeaux can’t be drunk within a few years of bottling is no longer true.

Proof of this came in the delicious 2020 expression of Pessac-Leognan’s Château Malartic Lagravière, or the 2018 vintage of St Emilion’s Château La Grace Dieu des Prieurs. Both producers were also the makers of outstanding white wines too – the former a lesson in how to craft ageworthy, barrel-influenced Sauvignon Blanc. As for the latter, Château La Grace Dieu des Prieurs was the source of one of the competition’s most surprising and lovely wines. Made with Chardonnay planted on Saint-Emilion’s limestone soils, it tasted like a grand cru Bourgogne Blanc, but, despite its quality, qualified as Vin de France: Chardonnay falls outside the rules of the Bordeaux appellation. More affordable than both these wines was the dry white from famous Sauternes producer Château Suduiraut. Crammed with ripe citrus and a touch of tropical fruit, complemented by a subtle creaminess from partial barrel-ageing, it delivers a lot of refreshing wine for £20.

The same could be said of our sole sweet wine – a Sichel Sauternes 2020 with plenty of honey, dried apricot, candied orange and vanilla pod notes for a touch more than £15 for a half-bottle. In fact, if one looks at the Gold-medallists from the competition, it’s notable how much great Bordeaux is affordable – that is relative to fine wines from elsewhere in the world. We had delicious, age-worthy structured Merlot and Cabernet blends from across Bordeaux that were priced below £40, with two of them retailing for sub-£20.

Still White – Unoaked

Winery Name of wine Vint. Medal
Under £10
Dourthe N°1 de Dourthe 2022 Silver
£10-£15
Château Argadens Château Argadens AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2022 Silver
Mouton Cadet Blanc 2022 Silver

 

Still White – Oaked

Winery Name of wine Vint. Medal
£10-£15
Château Suduiraut Lions de Suduiraut Blanc Sec 2022 Gold
£50-£70
Château Malartic-Lagravière Grand Cru Classé 2018 Gold
£100+
Château La Grace Dieu des Prieurs Elena 2021 Master

Still Red – Unoaked

Winery Name of wine Vint. Medal
£10-£15
Maison Sichel 1883 AOC Bordeaux Red 2022 Bronze

Still Red – Oaked

Winery Name of wine Vint. Medal
£10-£15
Dourthe La Grande Cuvée 2020 Gold
Château Argadens Château Argadens AOC Bordeaux Supérieur Red 2019 Silver
Mouton Cadet Mouton Cadet Rouge Bio 2022 Silver
Maison Sichel Bordeaux Sichel AOC Bordeaux Red 2019 Silver
Mouton Cadet Mouton Cadet Rouge 2021 Silver
Producta Vignobles Roc de Lussac 2020 Silver
Château Siran Saint Jacques de Siran 2019 Bronze
Vignerons de Puisseguin Lussac Saint-Emilion Les Vieux Chênes 2019 Bronze
Château Recougne Château Recougne 2020 Bronze
Dourthe Château Pey la Tour 2021 Bronze
£15-£20
Château Tour Bayard Château Tour Bayard 2020 Gold
Vignerons de Puisseguin Lussac Saint-Emilion La Pruladière 2019 Silver
Mouton Cadet Sélection Côtes de Bordeaux 2020 Silver
Mouton Cadet Cuvée Héritage 2020 Silver

Winery Name of wine Vint. Medal
£20-£30
Château Doyac Château Doyac 2020 Gold
Exploitation Vinicole Benjamin de Rothschild Château des Laurets 2018 Gold
Cos d’Estournel G d’Estournel 2019 Silver
Les Vignobles André Lurton Château de Cruzeau 2019 Silver
Exploitation Vinicole Benjamin de Rothschild Château de Malengin Eve 2020 Silver
Vignerons de Puisseguin Lussac Saint-Emilion Peraclos 2019 Silver
Vignerons de Puisseguin Lussac Saint-Emilion Les Caillonnes 2019 Silver
Les Vignobles André Lurton Château de Rochemorin 2017 Silver
Vignobles Jade Fontfleurie 2019 Silver
Château Malartic-Lagravière Le Comte de Malartic Pessac Leognan 2019 Silver
£30-£50
Château Malartic-Lagravière Grand Cru Classé 2020 Master
Château Mazeyres Château Mazeyres 2018 Gold
Château Boutisse Château Boutisse 2019 Gold
Château Malartic-Lagravière Grand Cru Classé 2018 Gold
Jean-Noël Boidron Château Corbin Michotte 2020 Silver
£50-£70
Château Malartic-Lagravière Grand Cru Classé 2016 Gold
£100+
Château La Grace Dieu des Prieurs Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2018 Master

 

Still White – Sweet

Winery Name of wine Vint. Medal
£15-£20
Maison Sichel Sichel Sauternes AOC Sauternes 2020 Gold

 

International wines sold on La Place

Winery Name of wine Country Region Vint. Medal
£50-£70
Caiarossa Rosso di Toscana IGT Italy Tuscany 2020 Gold
£70-£100
Viña Maquis Maquis Franco Chile Colchagua 2012 Master
Viña Maquis Maquis Viola Chile Colchagua 2010 Gold
Viña Maquis Maquis Franco Chile Colchagua 2016 Gold
Viña Maquis Maquis Viola Chile Colchagua 2015 Gold
£100+
VIK VIK Chile Cachapoal 2019 Master
Morlet Family Vineyards Coeur de Vallée USA Napa Valley 2019 Master
Morlet Family Vineyards Coeur de Vallée USA Napa Valley 2020 Gold
Morlet Family Vineyards Coeur de Vallée USA Napa Valley 2018 Gold
Morlet Family Vineyards Coeur de Vallée USA Napa Valley 2013 Gold
Morlet Family Vineyards Coeur de Vallée USA Napa Valley 2007 Gold

About the competition

With high-quality judges and a unique sampling process, The Bordeaux Masters provides a chance for your wines to star. The 2023 competition was judged on 14 April at COMO The Halkin, London, employing experienced judges. The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver, or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Bordeaux Master. This report features the medal winners only.

Please visit the Global Masters website for more information, or, to enter future competitions – giving you the chance to feature online and in print – please call: +44 (0) 20 7803 2420 or email Sophie Raichura at: sophie@thedrinksbusiness.com

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