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Top 10 white wines from The Rueda Masters

30 March 2023 By Patrick Schmitt

We reveal the top 10 white wines from the inaugural Rueda Masters, which sees us judge a broad range of bottles from Spain’s most popular source of refreshing blancos.

Over the years, the drinks business has often said that the wines of Rueda are ripe for broader recognition. This region, which is located about two hours’ drive north of Madrid, is the source of Spain’s best-selling white wine, with more than 40% of the market. And yet, step outside the nation’s borders, and Rueda is a relative niche, including major markets for Spanish wine such as the UK and US. Importantly, this isn’t because the wines are esoteric. Rather, Rueda is perfect for lovers of crisp, light, white wines; the sort of people who order Sauvignon Blanc in bar, or buy a bottle of Chablis when they’re treating themselves for a night in.

Indeed, Rueda is successful in its home nation because it’s both refreshing and affordable. Almost entirely made from a grape called Verdejo, Rueda can be compared to Sauvignon Blanc, with flavours of lime and grapefruit. But rather than having the gooseberry, grassy character of Sauvignon, the whites of Rueda tend to have a refreshing herbal note, sometimes with a subtle taste of fennel.

Now, believing the wines to deliver a lot of appeal for a low price, we decided to assess the level of quality from Rueda right now by launching the Rueda Masters – which sees the wines tasted ‘blind’, according to price bands. Not only did this draw attention to the styles available from the region, but the top drops too. And you can see our top 10 wines from the tasting over the following pages.

In terms of general findings following the tasting, it highlighted a high base level of consistent quality for a surprisingly low price – we had a raft of clean, crisp, characterful wines sub-£10. These were wines with a refreshing mix of peach, pear and citrus flavours, but without being hard, tart, nor green. As for the few Sauvignon Blancs, these tended to be more like white Bordeaux in terms of ripeness level, with passionfruit and lemon characters, but not the pyrazines one can find in cooler climates.

We didn’t notice a big step up in quality at higher prices, which suggested that Rueda is able to supply a good level of flavour intensity and balance without a big investment from the producer, or consumer. Having said that, we unearthed some delicious sightlier pricier Ruedas that had seen some oak influence. In such cases, brief ageing in barriques had brought a complementary creamy and toasty element to the citrus fruits, which in one case, yield a Rueda not unlike a fine bottle of white Graves.

Finally, our sole Master-quality bottle was a unique and outstanding drop. Made traditionally in an oxidative style to produce a wine called Dorado, it was complex and memorable.

As one of the judges, Patricia Stefanowicz MW remarked after the tasting, “Rueda has too much interest to be hidden away or consigned to the domestic market.”

Montespina Verdejo Sobre Lias

Producer: Avelino Vegas, S.A.
Region: Rueda
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2022
Grape varieties: 100% Verdejo
ABV: 13%
Residual sugar: 3.5g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £8
Medal: Gold

A lovely, light white wine with notes of apple and pear, a touch of banana, then a cleansing lime zest finish. An excellent example of clean, bright and fruity wine for under a tenner.

Palacio de Bornos Verdejo 2022

Producer: Palacio de Bornos
Region: Rueda
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2022
Grape varieties:100% Verdejo
ABV: 13%
Residual sugar: 1.9g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £8
Medal: Gold

A benchmark for affordable Rueda, Palacio de Bornos strikes Gold for this inexpensive and vibrant white wine.

Analivia Verdejo Selección

Producer: Pagos Del Rey, S.L.
Region: Rueda
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2022
Grape varieties: 100% Verdejo
ABV: 13%
Residual sugar: 4g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £8
Medal: Gold

A lip-smacking citrus-dominant Rueda with hints of peach and pear, bitter lemon and fennel, that hails from the reliably-good range of wines under the Pagos del Rey umbrella.

Viña Garedo

Producer: Bodegas Grupo Yllera, S.L.
Region: Rueda
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2022
Grape varieties: 100% Verdejo
ABV: 13%
Residual sugar: 1.5g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £12
Medal: Gold

Our first Gold medalling winning Rueda that retails for over £10, this example from Grupo Yllera has some flavours of white-fleshed peach and ripe pear, a touch more viscosity than your more basic Verdejo, but finishes with the same bitter-fresh finish, featuring notes of citrus and fennel.

Erre de Herrero

Producer: Herrero Bodega
Region: Rueda
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2022
Grape varieties: 100% Verdejo
ABV: 12.5%
Residual sugar: 3.2g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £12
Medal: Gold

There’s some intensity and weight to this Rueda, with some juicy yellow fruit, along with the citrus and apple notes, and a persistent salty-fresh finish.

Excellens Sauvignon Blanc

Producer: Marques de Cáceres
Region: Rueda
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2021
Grape varieties:100% Sauvignon Blanc
ABV: 13.5%
Residual sugar: 2.1g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £13
Medal: Gold

A really good example of Sauvignon Blanc, with a core of creamy pear, complemented by lively characters of orange blossom, nettle and tangy grapefruit too.

Viore Verdejo Sobre Lias

Producer: Bodegas Viore, S.L.
Region: Rueda
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2021
Grape varieties: 100% Verdejo
ABV: 13%
Residual sugar: <2.5g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £13
Medal: Gold

An oak influenced Rueda with subtle notes of coconut and white chocolate, followed by crisp characters of salt-covered lemon, white pepper, and a hint of pear. The finish is dry, with a fine chalky-textured tannic grip to make one salivate.

Rodriguez & Sanzo Bajo Velo Verdejo

Producer: Rodríguez Y Sanzo S.L.
Region: Rueda
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2021
Grape varieties: 100% Verdejo
ABV: 13%
Residual sugar: 2g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £17
Medal: Gold

A complex Verdejo with plenty of apple and pear fruit, some zesty grapefruit too, married to notes of salted nuts and caramel, along with a finely-woody grip, presumably from the 10 months this Rueda spends maturing in ex-Sherry casks.

La Capilla Blanco

Producer: Marques de Cáceres
Region: Rueda
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2021
Grape varieties: 50% Verdejo, 50% Sauvignon Blanc
ABV: 13%
Residual sugar: 1.8g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £13
Medal: Gold

An outstanding example of Rueda – and our top-scoring dry wine from the competition – with notes of toast and vanilla from ageing in barriques, mixed with pineapple and pear fruit, along with a touch of fennel and a juicy, lemony finish. An exciting find that mimics fine white Bordeaux in style and quality, but for a significantly lower price.

De Alberto Dorado Dulce

Producer: Bodega De Alberto
Region: Rueda
Country: Spain
Vintage: n/a
Grape varieties: 100% Verdejo
ABV: 16%
Residual sugar: 63g/l
Closure: Glass Stopper
Approx. retail price: £15 (50cl)
Medal: Master

A vinous revelation, this gently sweet, fortified Verdejo mixes an incredible array of flavours, from hazelnuts to burn sugar, baked apple, dried fruit, salt crystals and sourdough. In terms of texture, it’s gently viscous, with a noticeable sweetness, but it finishes with a dry, almond-like character, and a subtle warming sensation from the elevated alcohol. In short, this is a delicious, oxidative, amber-coloured wine that would be lovely served chilled as an aperitif, or ideal as a partner for strong cheeses.

Judge’s comment: Patricia Stefanowicz MW

“The pure Verdejo wines are ‘correct’, showing custard cream and lemon zest characters with green or yellow fruit flavours and sufficiently crisp, though not assertive, acidity balancing the creamy texture… Oaked wines are rather delightful. Judicious use of oak adds extra dimension to the flavour profile of Verdejo. The wines we judged are well-balanced with fresh acidity and medium alcohol supporting the yellow fruit flavours and gentle oak accenting the wine profile. These wines are worthy of a place in the drinking repertoire of any discerning drinker.

Our single Master is unique. Sweet, though not plush, the wine is a traditional and welcome reminder of how well oxidatively-aged Verdejo behaves. Perfect with apricot tart, crème brulée or almost any Spanish cheese.

In general, Rueda has too much interest to be hidden away or consigned to the domestic market.”

Judge’s comment: Jonathan Pedley MW

“Straight unoaked Verdejo from Rueda can deliver deliciously fresh and fruity wines for under £10. This alone is a cause for celebration. The large unoaked £10-15 bracket did not deliver an appreciable step up in quality, although we did manage to award a Gold.

A pair of Sauvignon Blancs deservedly got golds, but my worry is that in a marketlike the UK, Rueda is going to struggle to gain traction with Sauvignon Blanc given that we have many well-established sources of this grape, particularly in the New World.

A couple of the oaked wines were rightfully awarded golds. However, attractive as these wines were, I am not convinced that the creamy vanilla notes of the oak seamlessly meld in with the ripe peachy notes of the Verdejo.

I think that Rueda’s best option is to focus on the unadorned expression of its native Verdejo.”

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