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What does Syrah taste like?
For International Syrah Day, db delves into some of the key flavour characteristics of this internationally popular dark-skinned grape variety.
Widely-planted in Southern France, where it is known as ‘Syrah’, and Australia, where it is given the name ‘Shiraz’, Syrah (as it shall be referred to in this piece for the purpose of consistency) is capable of producing wines with different flavour profiles, largely due to the climate where it is grown. Though strongly-associated with the winemaking of the Rhône Valley and Australia, Syrah is also flourishing across the world, from British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley to the Western Cape of South Africa, as the entries to last year’s Global Syrah Masters prove.
Generally speaking, in cooler climates, such as Yarra Valley, or in cooler vintages, Syrah will display a mixture of red fruits (such as red plum and red cherry) and black fruits (black plum, black cherry, blackberry), as well as a hint of violet. In hotter regions, like Barossa Valley, that profile will lean more into riper black fruits.
One characteristic which is generally consistent in Syrah from across the world is a very distinct note of black pepper. This particular ‘peppery’ quality is due to the presence of rotundone, a chemical compound that is found in black pepper, basil, marjoram and Grüner Veltliner. An aroma of black olive is also not uncommon.
As Syrah is a thick-skinned variety, hence why it does well in warmer climates, it tends to have quite high, firm tannins. Because it is typically planted in warmer climates, it also tends to have higher alcohol levels (13.5-15.5%), leading to wines with a fuller body. Cooler climate expressions will typically have slightly lower tannins and more noticeable acidity.
Syrah does respond well to time in oak, particularly that which has had quite a heavy toast and will lend some smokiness and roasted spice aromas that can work well with the pepper flavour.
However, though Syrah can be a forgiving variety in the vineyard, in the winery it is particularly prone to reduction, so needs some exposure to Oxygen otherwise it will start to develop sulphurous, ‘eggy’ flavours.
With ageing, Syrah can also display a ‘meaty’ quality that makes more mature examples a good fit for robust red meat dishes, such as chargrilled lamb or slow-cooked wild boar. Because of its peppery quality, it can also hold up to spiced dishes.
Of course, Syrah is not just found in single varietal expressions – it’s widely-used in blends too. ‘GSM’ (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre) blends are popular among the winemakers of the Rhône Valley, with the Syrah’s relatively high tannins and acidity adding structure to the wines, as well as its signature spice. It is also not unheard of in both Old and New World winemaking to co-ferment Syrah with a small proportion of Viognier (typically no more than 15%) partly in order to add some stone fruit aromas that can bring out the more perfumed characteristics of the Syrah. it will also lighten Syrah’s deep ruby/purple hue.
For a more in-depth examination of Syrah/Shiraz, check out db‘s top 22 Syrahs of 2022.
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