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A selection of fine Syrahs, Malbecs and Merlots from Chile

11 January 2023 By Patrick Schmitt

Following our selection of Cabernets and Carmenères from Chile, we turn our attention to some of the country’s other strengths as we rate its Syrahs, Malbecs and Merlots – as well as one fine, pure Cabernet Franc.

Notably, as I wrote in the September edition of the drinks business after an extensive tasting of Chilean wines – which was the basis of the selection below – the rising star in Chile right now appears to be Syrah. This grape, although not as fashionable as any of the Bordeaux varieties, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, but also Cabernet Franc and Malbec, seems exceptionally well suited to Chile’s Mediterranean climates and granitic sites. And, if you look through the top-scoring samples from the following wines, the high-points were reached with single-varietal Syrah: Montes Folly, and Lapostolle’s new Clos du Lican.

How the wines below were chosen

The wines featured in this selection were taken from 28 leading producers in Chile. Wines of Chile asked them to submit no more than two wines for sampling. The wineries put forward commercially available samples that they were most proud of, representing new and exciting bottles, along with the latest vintages of established labels. All the samples were assessed blind in August 2022, with the full results of the tasting featuring in the September edition of the drinks business. Featured below are the Syrahs, Malbecs and Merlots from the tasting, along with the sole varietal Cabernet Franc.

ARESTI, TRISQUEL SERIES ALTITUD, 2020

Varieties: 100% Merlot
Region: Curicó
ABV: 14%
RRP: £17
Score: 92

This project by Aresti, comprising a vineyard at 1,245m altitude in a forested Andean mountainside in the Curicó, is an exciting one. It may not be the country’s highest vineyard, but one can be sure there isn’t a Merlot vine in a more extreme location – at least in Chile. And, judging by this year ’s tasting of the 2020 vintage, the wine from this isolated and elevated spot is getting really good. While earlier vintages had notable pyrazines, this expression has masses of ripe red berry fruit, although it is still a fairly light wine in terms of mouthfeel, with delicate leafy notes. Along with these characters are some background chocolate-like flavours, and some slightly chewy tannins. In short, it’s a refreshing, structured and complex red that highlights a daring side to the Chilean wine scene.

SANTA EMA, AMPLUS MERLOT, 2019

Varieties: 100% Merlot
Region: Maipo Alto
ABV: 14%
RRP: £22
Score: 92.

This pure Maipo Alto Merlot, sourced from some of the highest vineyards in this area, is a lovely, fresh and aromatic expression, with lots of strawberry fruit, a touch of black cherry, along with subtle notes of vanilla, pepper and nettle. Texturally, this is quite a delicate wine, being fairly pale in appearance, and quite light in body, but there is chewy tannin to provide a dry grip to the finish, which is impressively persistent, ensuring the layers of flavour linger for some time after the wine has been swallowed.

VIU MANENT, SINGLE VINEYARD SAN CARLOS, 2020

Varieties: 100% Malbec
Region: Colchagua
ABV: 13.5%
RRP: £22
Score: 93

A brilliant example of Chilean Malbec from a specialist in the variety – Viu Manent – hailing from a vineyard planted more than a century ago at the San Carlos estate. There’s plenty of pure, ripe, red and black berry fruit, a hint of refreshing redcurrant, along with a touch of violets, and cracked pepper, as well as some subtle toast and dark chocolate characters. Unlike most Argentine Malbec – which is deeply coloured and richly textured – this Viu Manent example has a ruby appearance and a medium-weight body, which, when combined with its moderate alcohol (13.5%) and floral notes, makes it almost Pinot-esque. That is, until one senses the tannins, which are, true to Malbec, dense, dry and mouth-coating, making this wine a great partner for red meat – the most famous pairing for this variety.

ALDIVIESO, CABALLO LOCO GRAND CRU CURICÓ, 2020

Varieties: 70% Malbec, 30% Syrah
Region: Curicó
ABV: 14%
RRP: Approx £30
Score: 93

This new ‘grand cru’ expression from Valdivieso’s Caballo Loco – meaning ‘crazy horse’ – label is made primarily with Malbec from a vineyard planted in the 1920s in the coastal mountains around the village of Sagrada Familia within the Curicó Valley. It’s an exciting addition to Chile’s increasingly good Malbec-based blends, with masses of colour and dark berry fruit, mixed with spicy notes, and a pretty floral edge. There’s also a touch of nettle, tobacco leaf, and a finish with cedar and a hint of toast, along with plenty of firm, if fine, tannins to bring a dry sensation to the palate.

MAQUIS, GRAN RESERVA, 2019

Varieties: 100% Cabernet Franc
Region: Colchagua
ABV: 14%
RRP: Approx £20
Score: 93

There tends to be something pleasantly restrained about the Maquis style of wines – they never seem heavy nor sweet – and, impressively, this is achieved without including any greener notes from the fruit. This is certainly true of this pure Cabernet Franc, which mixes some just-ripe red berry flavours, from fresh raspberry to cherry, with notes of cedar, and a touch of cigar box too. Medium-weight in body, with lots of dry fine tannin, it has a more classic feel to its texture, making it somewhat shy, but lovely to sip – especially, I would imagine, with marbled red meat.

UNDURRAGA, T.H. SYRAH LEYDA, 2020

Varieties: 100% Syrah
Region: San Antonio, Leyda
ABV: 13.8%
RRP: Approx £19
Score: 94.

This deeply-coloured, smooth, peppery Syrah from Undurraga is a sign of the suitability of this grape to Chilean climes, including cooler coastal sites such as San Antonio – the source region for this sample. Enticingly aromatic, blackcurrant and black olive emerge from the glass, complemented by flavours of green pepper and cherry, then a subtle note of dark chocolate and toast. The characters persist on the finish, which features plenty of tannin too, bringing a firm dry edge to the soft fruit at this wine’s core.

CASAS DEL BOSQUE, PEQUEÑAS SYRAH, 2020

Varieties: 100% Syrah
Region: Casablanca
ABV: 15%
RRP: Approx £25
Score: 93

This firm but fine Syrah from Casas del Bosque comes from the cooler, most westerly part of Casablanca, where this grape appears to perform particularly well. There’s smoked meat, cracked black pepper, blackcurrant, olive, and chocolate all coming through in this layered, warming red, which successfully mixes plenty of dry tannins with sweet oak and ripe, spicy fruit flavours.

MONTES FOLLY, 2019

Varieties: 100% Syrah
Region: Apalta
ABV: 15%
RRP: Approx £50-£60
Score: 96

It’s slowly becoming clear that some of Chile’s best wines are made with Syrah – not just Cabernet. Proof of this comes with a wine such as this: Montes Folly. Using grapes grown on the granitic slopes at the Montes property in Apalta, Colchagua, this is a site producing Syrah of concentration, intensity, and complexity. Immediate and upfront flavours comprise ripe blackcurrant, dark cherry, and plums, then there’s pepper, black olive, chocolate, toast and a touch of coconut husk. It’s a strong wine in a youthful state, with masses of fruit, oak, and some alcohol warmth too, but the characters aren’t overripe or sweet – there’s a freshness here, and lots of dry tannin to make one salivate too.

LAPOSTOLLE, CLOS DU LICAN, 2019

Varieties: 100% Syrah
Region: Apalta
ABV: 15.5%
RRP: Approx £95
Score: 96

Joining the likes of Montes Folly and Pangea is this, the first release of the single-vineyard Clos du Lican from Lapostolle. Made from 18-year-old Syrah vines planted on the mountainsides of Apalta, this new entry to the icon Syrah scene is magnificent. The fruit is wonderful, but so is the structure – there’s plenty of tannin, but it’s fine and ripe, giving a creamy texture to the wine. While the Montes Folly is dominated by black fruit, this is all about red and blue berries, and is generally softer, and slightly sweeter. Complementing these traits is vanilla pod, caramel, and a touch of cracked black pepper. The only downside is a slightly spirity edge to the finish: there’s 15.5% ABV.

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