iDealwine update: Billecart-Salmon

MAISON BILLECART-SALMON was born from the union of two great family owners of vineyards in Champagne, when Nicolas-François Billecart married Elisabeth Salmon in 1818. The maison would grow to be very prosperous at the end of the 19th century – its wines were then known and enjoyed as far as the US and Russia.

Despite some setbacks of fortune in the early 20th century, the Billecart family retained ownership of the estate, and now produces some of the region’s most celebrated wines.

Today, the house is run by seventh generation Mathieu Roland-Billecart, who succeeded François and Antoine Roland-Billecart in 2018; grandfather Jean Roland-Billecart continues to keep a watchful eye over proceedings at the estate. In 2004 Jean-Jacques Frey (owner of Jaboulet & Aîné, and Château La Lagune) became a minority shareholder.

Located in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Maison Billecart-Salmon farms 100 hectares of vines, and sources grapes around the Marne Valley and Montagne de Reims from only the best terroirs, almost exclusively grand and premier cru.

Meticulous production techniques ensure that the family has 100% control of production. Each parcel is vinified separately, and the family uses a distinctive technique when it comes to fermenting the wine. The must is settled and clarified twice, before being chilled to about 5°C. The gross lees are then removed, the temperature is slowly raised to allow the yeasts to get to work on juice that is free of any oxidation. Fermentations are long, generally taking around three weeks, at relatively cool temperatures.

The house has High Environmental Value certification, meaning it farms its vineyards sustainably. Some of the parcels are tilled by horses, and sheep graze on the vineyards, improving the porosity and biodiversity of the soils. The roots thus dig deeper into the soils, extracting minerals and producing small, concentrated grapes, which best express the terroir.

Billecart-Salmon’s crowning jewel is the Clos Saint-Hilaire cuvée, produced solely from one hectare of Pinot Noir grapes

The Billecart-Salmon portfolio is as interesting as it is wide-ranging: from its renowned, delicate rosé and Brut Réserve, to the selection of rarer, haute-couture cuvées, these Champagnes are united by their finesse and impressive ageing ability. They have become a staple of iDealwine auctions, and we have noted price increases for almost every cuvée, with old vintages particularly coveted.

Billecart-Salmon’s crowning jewel is the Clos Saint-Hilaire cuvée, produced solely from one hectare of Pinot Noir grapes planted in the former park of the mansion at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Vinified entirely in casks, it is aged on its lees for 14 years before being bottled with low dosage. It is a monumental Champagne, with seldomseen concentration, redolent with hazelnut, violet and hawthorn aromas. The 1996 currently sells for €520 (£450), while the 2002 and 2003 vintages go for just under €400.

HOMAGE TO THE FOUNDER

The Cuvée Nicolas-François Billecart was created in homage to Billecart-Salmon’s founder. It is produced from a blend of the Grands Crus of the Côte des Blancs and the Montagne de Reims, and is made up of around 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, depending on the vintage. A legend in its own right, in 1999, the 1959 vintage triumphed in a blind tasting of 150 vintage Champagnes, winning first place as Champagne of the Millenium. Although the 1959 vintage is yet to be sold in an iDealwine auction, other more recent vintages are making their presence felt. The 1985 vintage is currently priced at €550, while the 1982 often sells for around €450. The 1990 reached €300 this summer, and all vintages from 2000 onwards sell for between €150 and €200.

In 1988 the Elisabeth Salmon cuvée was created in tribute to the house’s cofounder. Also a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it delivers a complex bouquet of figs, peaches, red fruit and rose petals with harmonious balance. The 2002 and 2006 Elisabeth Salmon sold last year for €350 and €220 respectively; the 1995 achieved an impressive €530. The Billecart-Salmon Grande Cuvée has been produced ever since 1982. It spends 10 years improving in the maison’s cellars before release onto the market; vintages spanning from the mid-1980s to 1998 are currently priced at €350-€600, but are rarely seen at auction.

Finally, the Louis Salmon cuvée is a homage to Louis, Elisabeth Salmon’s brother. This Brut Blanc de Blancs comes from some of the finest Côte des Blancs parcels, including three grands crus in Chouilly, Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Cramant.

It is half vinified in oak barrel, then matured on lees for nine to 10 months. All vintages currently sell for at least €150. In addition to its rich and unbroken history, throughout the years, Billecart-Salmon has continually sought to improve production methods, and has experimented with its range of hautecouture cuvées, never resting on its laurels. A testament to the lasting pull of the finest Champagne houses’ luxury vintage cuvées, Billecart-Salmon’s success at auction looks poised to continue well into the future.