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The medallists from the Champagne Masters 2022
The year’s Champagne Masters saw a record number of Golds and Masters awarded, with vintage expressions proving the high point in terms of price-quality ratio.
Now in its 11th year, The Champagne Masters has a long track record of identifying not only the best in the category, but also this fine sparkling’s strengths and weakness. In terms of unearthing the stars of Champagne in 2022, our experienced judges picked out more than 40 exceptional bottles (which are reviewed in full in our annual Champagne Report, out in a couple of week’s time). It may have been the biggest competition we’ve ever hosted, but that’s still an impressive number of truly great wines, and shows that the standard of Champagne is getting better.
But, having sampled so many bottles, what are the overriding trends? Dealing with each Champagne style in turn, let’s consider what the producers are getting right, as well as those areas where there appears to be some room for improvement. Starting with the entry-point, Brut NV, it should initially be noted that although this tends to represent the cheapest type of Champagne – and by far the largest sub-category by volume – it is still priced higher than the upper end of most rival sparkling wines. So, with fine Brut NV now costing over £40, it should be a seriously good glass of fizz.
For the most part, the standard of Brut NV being made today is excellent. A product of better viticulture and pressing, cleaner juices and more reserve wines, not forgetting longer times spent ageing on and off the lees, and improved bottling procedures, along with lower dosages, Brut NV today tends to mix depth and complexity with precision. At their best, these are layered wines, with honeyed notes, along with fresh fruit, and nutty, bready interest, along with dry and bright edge, ensuring that they serve that aperitif moment – for which they are crafted – brilliantly.
A benchmark in the competitive Brut NV sector is Piper-Heidsieck, especially its drier ‘Essential’, with a 5g/l dosage, although Lanson (both for its ‘Le Black and Le Green’ labels) is proving hard to beat, with its nutty and citric style. Also, Moët & Chandon garnered a Gold for its Brut Impérial, and, as the best-selling Champagne in the world, this fizz proves that it’s possible to be big and fine with sparkling wine. Indeed, scale may be preferable, giving one access to a wide range of wines for blending – a key for not just complexity and balance, but stylistic consistency too.
Commenting on this sector of the market, Champagne Masters judge, Jonathan Pedley MW described it as a “mixed bag with a handful of delicious wines mixed in with plenty of basic stuff.” Continuing he said, “The latter were often young, raw and lacking complexity. The better wines had maturity and complexity – doubtless derived from the judicious use of reserve wines and extended lees ageing.”
Agreeing, fellow judges Patricia Stefanowicz MW observed that “Champagne will never be inexpensive, and finding a number of exciting wines at the lower end of the £30-50 bracket with appealing fruit and fresh croissant or brioche accents, was a delight. Above £50 the Brut NV wines are excellent, and so they should be.”
It was with the move to the vintage category that our first Masters were awarded – an accolade reserved for those wines that are exceptional – with producers Joseph Perrier, Piper-Heidsieck and Henriot the sources of “wow-factor” fizz, to use Stefanowicz’s description for the best samples. Taking in harvests from 2014 back to 2006, it was notable how good the 2012s are, while the 2014s are showing their quality potential too. Recording the presence of “gems”; “A cluster of wines showed evidence of having been vinified from top quality fruit and then aged to add complexity and harmony,” Pedley said that this part of the Champagne offer is where the quality-to-price ratio seems to be highest. By way of explanation for this, he said, “With many houses focusing on Prestige Cuvées and other trendy things like Blanc de Blancs, standard Vintage seems to have become a quiet bye water where the consumer can pick up some excellent wines for sensible prices.”
Dealing next with the top-end expressions, Prestige Cuvée Champagne, there were more outstanding wines from the 2012 harvest, but also the first rate 2008, and, for a younger fizz, the relatively underrated 2013 vintage. Master-level quality was tasted from Deutz, Perrier-Jouët and Rare, as well as the multi-vintage flagship from Laurent-Perrier, called Grand Siecle, now carrying an edition number so one can find out the base wines and gauge the age of the fizz. Other delicious wines – if not quite Masters – hailed from some grower-cooperative producers, with Nicolas Feuillatte, Palmer and Castelnau picking up Golds, the latter for an exciting late-release from 2000 in magnum. Underrated names for greatness in this upmarket sphere included GH Mumm – it’s Lalou 2006 is delicious – and Pommery, whose Cuvée Louise is certainly a connoisseur’s prestige cuvée. Speaking generally about this category, Pedley recorded “glorious honeyed aromas and great length on the palate,” and “angina inducing prices to match.”
Testament to the increasing demand for Blanc de Blancs, this was one of the biggest sectors of this year’s Champagne Masters, and home to some fantastic wines, notably those from Henriot and Telmont, but also Mumm and Perrier-Jouët, Deutz and Delamotte, along with Piper-Heidsieck and Ayala, and Besserat de Bellefon with its grand cru bottling. Clearly impressed, Stefanowicz described the Champagnes as “pristine”, with “racy acidity”. Pedley recorded a more variable standard, and while excited by “butter cream” notes in one sample, said that some others seemed “simple”, with “an absence of leesy complexity and maturity.”
Such wines were, however, better than the blanc de noirs, which was “a small but slightly disappointing flight, marked by a couple of wines that were rather vegetal,” said Pedley, with the judges agreeing that Champagne does undoubtedly benefit from the addition of Chardonnay to the blend.
Finishing with rosé, it was agreed upon by the tasters that, with a few exceptions – such as the excellent samples from Laurent-Perrier, Perrier-Jouët, Pommery, Joseph Perrier and Besserat de Bellefon – to quote Pedley, “this was the biggest disappointment of the day”. Commenting that “Clearly making good Rosé Champagne is not as easy as a lot of people think,” he then recorded two types of poorer-scoring pink fizz: “At one end of the scale there were wines that were raw and simple, at the other end wines that were tired and lacking freshness.”
Stefanowicz felt similarly, commenting, “Whilst the range of colours was visual enchantment, many of the wines simply do not deliver on the nose and palate. And, of course, they are mostly expensive. That said, there were a few hidden gems. But, particularly at more than £30, I’d have expected much more definition and refinement than some of the wines delivered.”
Concluding on this category in the context of the overall competition, Pedley stated, “It is a bold thing to say, but if we steered consumers away from Rosé Champagne and towards standard Vintage we would be doing them a huge favour.”
The failure of some of the pink Champagnes to meet expectations aside, the overall standard of samples in this year’s competition was not only high, but higher than ever before. And with that in mind, please read on to see where the quality lies, as we reveal all the medallists from the Champagne Masters 2022.
Non Vintage | ||||
Name of Wine | Winery | Vintage | Dosage | Medal |
£10-£15 | ||||
Veuve Monsigny Champagne Brut | Aldi | NV | Brut | Bronze |
£20-£30 | ||||
Brut Prestige | GH Martel & CIE | NV | Brut | Silver |
Champagne Montaudon Brut Tradition | Champagne Montaudon | NV | Brut | Silver |
Grande Reserve | Chateau de Bligny | NV | Brut | Silver |
Brut Tradition | Charles de Cazanove | NV | Brut | Bronze |
Premier Cru Prestige | GH Martel & CIE | NV | Brut | Bronze |
Heidsieck & Co Monopole Blue Top Brut | Heidsieck & Co Monopole | NV | Brut | Bronze |
Réserve | 36 Mois | NV | Brut | Bronze |
£30-£50 | ||||
Le Black Label Brut | Champagne Lanson | NV | Brut | Master |
Piper-Heidsieck Essentiel | Piper-Heidsieck | NV | Extra-brut | Gold |
Champagne Brimoncourt Brut Regence | Champagne Brimoncourt | NV | Brut | Gold |
Pommery Apanage Brut | Pommery | NV | Brut | Gold |
Réserve Brut | Telmont | NV | Brut | Gold |
Besserat de Bellefon Bleu Brut | Champagne Besserat de Bellefon depuis 1843 | NV | Brut | Gold |
Moët & Chandon | Brut Impérial NV | NV | Brut | Gold |
Cuvée Royale Brut Nature | Champagne Joseph Perrier | NV | Brut nature | Silver |
NV Extra Brut Grand Cru | Champagne Collery | NV | Extra-brut | Silver |
Abelé 1757 Brut | Champagne Abelé 1757 | NV | Extra-brut | Silver |
Extra Brut NV Premier Cru | Champagne Frèrejean Frères | NV | Extra-brut | Silver |
Brut Réserve | Champagne Vollereaux | NV | Brut | Silver |
NV Brut Grand Cru | Champagne Collery | NV | Brut | Silver |
Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut | Piper-Heidsieck | NV | Brut | Silver |
Champagne Castelnau Brut Reserve | Champagne Castelnau | NV | Brut | Silver |
Mumm RSRV 4.5 | G. H. Mumm | NV | Brut | Silver |
Brut Réserve | Champagne Palmer & Co | NV | Brut | Silver |
Mumm Grand Cordon | G. H. Mumm | NV | Brut | Silver |
Champagne Delamotte Brut | Delamotte | NV | Brut | Silver |
Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur | Champagne Ayala | NV | Brut | Silver |
Terroir Premier Cru | Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte | NV | Brut | Silver |
Pommery Brut Royal | Pommery | NV | Brut | Silver |
Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label | Veuve Clicquot | NV | Brut | Silver |
Vranken Diamant Brut | Vranken | NV | Brut | Silver |
Réserve Exclusive Brut | Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte | NV | Brut | Silver |
Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée | Champagne Laurent-Perrier | NV | Brut | Bronze |
Cuvée Royale Brut | Champagne Joseph Perrier | NV | Brut | Bronze |
Brut Classic | Champagne Deutz | NV | Brut | Bronze |
Brut Extra Intense Grand Cru | Champagne Haton | NV | Brut | Bronze |
£50+ | ||||
Grande Reserve | Champagne Gosset | NV | Brut | Gold |
Le Green Label Organic | Champagne Lanson | NV | Brut | Gold |
Célébration Premier Cru | Champagne Vollereaux | NV | Brut | Gold |
Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Sublime | Piper-Heidsieck | NV | Demi-sec | Silver |
Name of Wine | Winery | Vintage | Dosage | Medal |
Vintage | ||||
£20-£30 | ||||
Brut Millesime | GH Martel & CIE | 2012 | Brut | Silver |
Collection Terroir – Premier Cru | Albert Lebrun | 2012 | Brut | Silver |
£30-£50 | ||||
Millesime 2008 Tradition | Charles de Cazanove | 2008 | Brut | Gold |
Noble Vintage | Champagne Haton | 2016 | Brut | Gold |
£50+ | ||||
Cuvée Royale Brut Millésimé 2012 | Champagne Joseph Perrier | 2012 | Brut | Master |
Piper-Heidsieck Vintage 2014 | Piper-Heidsieck | 2014 | Brut | Master |
Champagne Henriot Millésime 2012 | Champagne Henriot | 2012 | Brut | Master |
Brut Millesime 2015 | Champagne Deutz | 2015 | Brut | Gold |
Mumm Millésime 2015 | G. H. Mumm | 2015 | Brut | Gold |
Vinothèque 2012 | Telmont | 2012 | Brut | Gold |
Cuvée des Hussards 2012 Premier Cru | Champagne Frèrejean Frères | 2012 | Extra-brut | Gold |
Millésime 2009 | Champagne Brimoncourt | 2009 | Brut | Gold |
Pommery Grand Cru | Pommery | 2008 | Brut | Gold |
Piper-Heidsieck Vintage 2014 Magnum | Piper-Heidsieck | 2014 | Brut | Gold |
Grande Sendrée 2010 | Champagne Drappier | 2010 | Brut | Gold |
Empyreumatic 2014 Grand Cru | Champagne Collery | 2014 | Brut | Gold |
Le Vintage 2009 | Champagne Lanson | 2009 | Brut | Silver |
Name of Wine | Winery | Vintage | Dosage | Medal |
Prestige Cuvee | ||||
£50+ | ||||
William Deutz 2013 | Champagne Deutz | 2013 | Brut | Master |
Grand Siècle Iteration No.25 by Laurent-Perrier | Champagne Laurent-Perrier | MV | Brut | Master |
Rare Champagne Millésime 2006 Magnum | Rare Champagne | 2006 | Brut | Master |
Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs 2012 | Perrier-Jouët | 2012 | Brut | Master |
Champagne Henriot Cuvée Hemera 2006 | Champagne Henriot | 2006 | Extra-brut | Gold |
Palmes d’Or Brut Vintage 2008 | Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte | 2008 | Brut | Gold |
Rare Champagne Millésime 2008 | Rare Champagne | 2008 | Brut | Gold |
Amazone de Palmer | Champagne Palmer & Co | 2012, 2010, 2009 | Brut | Gold |
Champagne Castelnau Oenothèque Magnum | Champagne Castelnau | 2000 | Brut | Gold |
Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2013 | Perrier-Jouët | 2013 | Brut | Gold |
Mumm RSRV Lalou 2006 | G. H. Mumm | 2006 | Brut | Gold |
Pommery Cuvee Louise Brut | Pommery | 2005 | Brut | Gold |
Le Sourire de Reims Brut Vintage | Champagne Abelé 1757 | 2009 | Extra-brut | Silver |
Cuvée Gold – Limited Edition | Victoire | 2015 | Brut | Silver |
Amour de Deutz 2011 | Champagne Deutz | 2011 | Brut | Silver |
Le Clos Lanson | Champagne Lanson | 2007 | Brut | Silver |
Name of Wine | Winery | Vint. | Dosage | Medal |
Blanc De Blancs | ||||
£20-£30 | ||||
2015 Blanc de Blancs Vintage Champagne | Aldi | 2015 | Brut | Silver |
Blanc de Blancs | Charles de Cazanove | NV | Brut | Bronze |
£30-£50 | ||||
Collection Terroir – Grand Cru | Albert Lebrun | NV | Brut | Gold |
Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru | Comtes de Dampierre SAS | NV | Brut | Silver |
Blanc de Blancs | Chateau de Bligny | NV | Brut | Bronze |
Blanc de Blancs Extra Grand Cru | Champagne Haton | NV | Brut | Bronze |
£50+ | ||||
Blanc de Blancs 2012 | Telmont | 2012 | Extra-brut | Master |
Champagne Henriot Blanc de Blancs | Champagne Henriot | NV | Brut | Master |
Champagne Castelnau Blanc de Blancs | Champagne Castelnau | 2007 | Brut | Gold |
Blanc de Blancs | Champagne Palmer & Co | NV | Brut | Gold |
Ayala Le Blanc de Blancs | Champagne Ayala | 2015 | Extra-brut | Gold |
Piper-Heidsieck Essentiel Blanc de Blancs | Piper-Heidsieck | NV | Extra-brut | Gold |
Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru | Champagne Collery | NV | Brut | Gold |
Besserat de Bellefon Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru | Champagne Besserat de Bellefon depuis 1843 | NV | Brut | Gold |
Perrier-Jouët Blanc de Blancs | Perrier-Jouët | NV | Brut | Gold |
Mumm RSRV Blanc de Blancs 2014 | G. H. Mumm | 2014 | Brut | Gold |
Blanc de Blancs 2017 | Champagne Deutz | 2017 | Brut | Gold |
Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 2014 | Delamotte | 2014 | Brut | Gold |
Pommery Apanage Blanc de Blancs | Pommery | NV | Brut | Silver |
Abelé 1757 Blanc de Blancs | Champagne Abelé 1757 | NV | Brut | Silver |
Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs | Delamotte | NV | Brut | Silver |
Grand Blanc de Blancs | Champagne Gosset | NV | Brut | Silver |
Le Blanc de Blancs | Champagne Lanson | NV | Brut | Bronze |
Name of Wine | Winery | Vint. | Dosage | Medal |
Blanc De Noirs | ||||
£20-£30 | ||||
Collecction Terroir – Blanc de Noirs | Albert Lebrun | NV | Extra-brut | Silver |
Blanc de Noirs | Charles Orban | NV | Brut | Silver |
£50+ | ||||
Blanc de Noirs | Grand Cru 30 HA | NV | Brut | Gold |
Blanc de Noirs 2014 | Telmont | 2014 | Extra-brut | Gold |
Le Black Réserve | Champagne Lanson | NV | Brut | Gold |
Besserat de Bellefon Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru | Champagne Besserat de Bellefon depuis 1843 | NV | Brut | Silver |
Mumm RSRV Blanc de Noirs 2013 | G. H. Mumm | 2013 | Brut | Silver |
Blanc de Noirs | Champagne Palmer & Co | NV | Brut | Silver |
Pommery Apanage Blanc de Noirs | Pommery | NV | Brut | Bronze |
Name of Wine | Winery | Vint. | Dosage | Medal |
Alternative Grape Varieties | ||||
£30-£50 | ||||
Collection Organic Extra Brut | Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte | NV | Extra-brut | Bronze |
£50+ | ||||
Clos de Chateau – 6 Cepages | Chateau de Bligny | NV | Brut nature | Bronze |
Rosé | ||||
£15-£20 | ||||
Veuve Monsigny Rosé Champagne Brut | Aldi | NV | Brut | Bronze |
£30-£50 | ||||
Cuvée Royale Brut Rosé | Champagne Joseph Perrier | NV | Brut | Gold |
Pommery Brut Rosé Royal | Pommery | NV | Brut | Gold |
Rosé Solera | Champagne Palmer & Co | NV | Brut | Silver |
Heidsieck & Co Monopole Rosé Top Brut | Heidsieck & Co Monopole | NV | Brut | Silver |
Le Rosé | Champagne Lanson | NV | Brut | Silver |
NV Rose Brut Grand Cru | Champagne Collery | NV | Brut | Silver |
Réserve Exclusive Rosé | Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte | NV | Brut | Silver |
£50+ | ||||
Besserat de Bellefon Rosé Brut | Champagne Besserat de Bellefon depuis 1843 | NV | Brut | Gold |
Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé | Champagne Laurent-Perrier | NV | Brut | Gold |
Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2012 | Perrier-Jouët | 2012 | Brut | Gold |
Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage | Piper-Heidsieck | NV | Brut | Silver |
Mumm RSRV Rosé Foujita | G. H. Mumm | NV | Brut | Silver |
Rare Champagne Rosé Millésime 2012 | Rare Champagne | 2012 | Brut | Silver |
Grand Rosé | Champagne Gosset | NV | Brut | Silver |
Cuvée Marguerite Rosé | Champagne Vollereaux | 2012 | Brut | Silver |
Palmes d’Or Rosé Intense Vintage 2008 | Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte | 2008 | Brut | Silver |
Mumm Grand Cordon Rosé | G. H. Mumm | NV | Brut | Silver |
Champagne Carbon Rosé | Champagne Carbon | NV | Brut | Bronze |
Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé | Perrier-Jouët | NV | Brut | Bronze |
Brut Rosé | Champagne Deutz | NV | Brut | Bronze |
Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2013 | Perrier-Jouët | 2013 | Brut | Bronze |
About The Champagne Masters
The Champagne Masters is a competition created and run by the drinks business, and is an extension of its successful Masters series for grape varieties, such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as regions like Rioja and Tuscany. The competition is exclusively for Champagne, and the entries were judged using Schott Zwiesel Cru Classic glasses supplied by Sensible Wine Services. The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Champagne Master.
The Champagnes were judged on 10 March at London’s Coravin Wine & Bubbles Bar by Patrick Schmitt MW, Patricia Stefanowicz MW, Jonathan Pedley MW, David Round MW, Susan Hulme MW, and Siobhan Turner MW.
Please visit The Global Masters website for more information, or, to enter future competitions – giving you the chance to feature online and in print – please call +44 (0) 20 7803 2420 or email Sophie Raichura at: sophie@thedrinksbusiness.com
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