Unfiltered: Valentin Mouillard

The paragliding head sommelier of Simon Rogan’s newly three Michelin-starred L’Enclume talks to Douglas Blyde about working his way up from a suburban Novotel to one of the UK’s most acclaimed restaurants…

What are your roots?

I grew up on the western side of the Loire valley near Nantes which is where I found my passion for food, drinks and hospitality. My father owned a restaurant for ten years while my mum was a teacher so we had the luxury of having her the whole time during our school holidays so we could visit our grandparents who were winemakers on the other side of France in the Jura. It’s there I really started to get interested in wine.

What is your vintage? 

1993 from which there are simply no areas in the world which produced great wine, unfortunately.

What is the story of the restaurant’s name? 

L’Enclume is French for “the anvil” which comes from the story behind the building, which was originally a blacksmith. When Simon came to visit the place, it has been changed into an antiques shop but the remaining “anvil” was still in the middle of the room which gave him the idea of taking over the space and changing it into his own restaurant.

How did you make such a leap from working in a Novotel on the outskirts of London to L’Enclume?

I attended hospitality school back in France and a friend of mine, Pierre Brunelli MS was studying there as well. He was obviously not an MS back in those days. After not seeing each other for years he called me at 9 am on the 1st of January to offer me a job as a commis sommelier at L’Enclume. I thought it was a joke, but then realised he was serious. I didn’t know L’Enclume or even Simon Rogan so I did a quick search on the net and a few months later I was there. I was after a new challenge so – this was it.

What keeps you at L’Enclume? 

I think the main thing is the ambience. It’s a magical restaurant. I’ve worked my way up in the restaurant to arrive where I am now.

What was the first wine to move you?  

That’s a very good question. I don’t think it was a specific wine but a style: Vin Jaune. It’s the first style that amazed me by its complexity and longevity. When you try the latest vintage and then a mature one you can see all this development – just stunning.

Describe your drinks list at L’Enclume?

I’m trying to have a little bit of everything for everyone. The majority is French but we find wines from all over the world and different styles, trying to focus on small producers as they are more authentic than the big estates. One rule which I like to stick to is to keep only one reference per colour per winemaker. This makes it more fun and in my opinion, allows you to find more choices. This way, you don’t end up with pages of one cuvée or one winemaker and 10,000 different options to choose from.

Are natural wines becoming mainstream?

Yes, I think so. But I don’t really like using this term.

What is it like to work with head chef, Paul Burgalières, and what has been a standout pairing? 

Besides being a chef, he is a good friend. He is calm, very professional and listens a lot. When we try a dish for the wine pairing, he always asks our opinions. My favourite at the moment is our steamed cod, rainbow chard and Mylor prawns in rosehip. We pair a wine from Johannes Zillinger – Numen Fumé Blanc 2019. This particular vintage is fruit-driven with notes of peach, lychee, and mango which combine perfectly with the rosehip and the slight sweetness of the sauce.

How does the setting at L’Enclume influence the enjoyment of wine?

It is warm and relaxed, making it a nice environment to enjoy your drinks without stress.

Are you excited by spirits?

Yes of course. A good meal should always finish with one of them.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

Outside of work and studies, I spend most of my time running, climbing, and I am learning how to paraglide.

Who should prospective team members contact if they want to join L’Enclume?

Marcin in the HR department – Marcin@simonrogan.co.uk

L’Enclume – Cavendish Street, Cartmel, Grange-over-Sands, LA11 6QA; 015395 36362; lenclume.co.uk