Unfiltered: Joel Bastian

The Alsace born group head sommelier for Kitchin Group talks to Douglas Blyde about a “nature to plate philosophy”, what to match with North Sea halibut, and a fondness for rums…

What is your vintage? 

I was born in Strasbourg in 1981, a year from which Catalonian reds are drinking well – as are a few Sauternes, surprisingly.

What was the last wine which moved you? 

1995 Frédéric Emile Riesling by Trimbach, with my colleagues.

What has been a thought-provoking vineyard visit? 

While there haven’t been as many visits as I would have liked recently, I very much enjoyed my visit to Marcel Deiss in Alsace which was a true masterclass in geology and the soil.

How did you come to be at The Kitchin? 

I joined in 2010 as a sommelier, having spent ten years working in hospitality in my native France. When I first moved to Scotland, I worked in Inverness, before settling in Edinburgh.

I was at The Kitchin for six months before moving to sister restaurant, Castle Terrace when it opened that summer. In 2012, I was promoted to head sommelier, then, five years later, I was given the opportunity to take on the role as group head sommelier for The Kitchin, The Bonnie Badger and The Scran & Scallie. I now oversee all of the wine purchasing and pricing for the group, constantly liaising with suppliers and producers and our sommeliers and continually updating the lists.

Describe your approach? 

I enjoy constantly evolving the wine lists, finding new and interesting wines to introduce to our guests. We take particular care in finding unusual grapes and promoting emerging countries and their local characteristics.

What has been a standout pairing with a dish by chef-patron, Tom Kitchin? 

Tartare of North Sea halibut with Granny Smith, olive oil and caviar with Grüner Veltliner “Felix” from Weingut Weszeli in Niederösterreich. Its delicate flavours matched the bold flavours of the tartare beautifully.

What style of wine might not work with Tom’s cuisine? 

Given chef Kitchin’s food is so diverse over the course of the Scottish seasons, we are yet to find something that would not work…

What does he enjoy drinking? 

Lately, Beaujolais.

How does the restaurant’s wharf setting and open kitchen enhance the enjoyment of wine? 

It allows us to convey our genuine, “From Nature to Plate” philosophy and ultimately adds to the whole experience. The dining room also features an open cellar which our guests enjoy, creating atmosphere and illustrating our wealth of different wines and the care we take in storing them in the right environment.

Does the venue feature music?

Ambient jazz.

What is your favourite digestif? 

Lately, I have been rediscovering Chartreuse and I am a big fan of whisky, Cognac and brandy in general. I also like exploring rums.

What do you do on your days off?

I really enjoy cooking and visiting the great wine bars of Edinburgh.

How seriously do you take non-alcoholic drinks? 

At all of our venues we aim to cater for as many guests as we can and as such we’re always seeking out different non-alcoholic options or creating mocktails.

What have critics said of The Kitchin? 

Launched in 2006, The Kitchen was where Tom received a Michelin star just six months after opening, making him Scotland’s youngest Michelin starred chef-proprietor at just 29. Since then, The Kitchin has regularly been acknowledged as one of the best places to dine in Britain. However, some of the most important feedback comes from our loyal guests which we’re truly proud to have.

Tell us something surprising about yourself? 

I love German beer.

Do you prefer Billy Connolly or Sean Connery? 

Sean Connery.

Tea or Coffee? 

Tea first thing, followed by coffee later.

Sparkling or Still? 

Sparkling.

Drive or walk? 

Walk.

Who should prospective team members contact if they want to join the team? 

We are always looking for talented, professional and passionate people for whom there are so many opportunities to progress throughout the group if you have a hunger to learn, get in touch via work@kitchingroup.com or visit https://thekitchin.com/careers

The Kitchin – 78 Commercial Quay, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 6LX; 0131 555 1755; info@thekitchin.com; thekitchin.com