Unfiltered: Callum McCann

The GM of Glasgow’s Unalome by Graeme Cheevers gives insight into his sentimentality for Wolf Blass, his particularly wine-savvy kitchen team and love for ferrets.

What is your vintage?

1996, being particularly good for Bordeaux and Italy. While some of the Bordeaux has peaked, Barolo and Barbaresco still finds more to give.

What is the story behind the name, Unalome? 

Unalome is a traditional Buddhist symbol for the path we take. This is the ethos behind chef, Graeme Cheever’s menu and restaurant: the dining experience should be a journey offering almost a sense of enlightenment upon completion. Even if you do have a bill to pay for!

Does Unalome’s sustainable ethos continue to the wine list? 

In part. All our suppliers are becoming more aware of the need to be sustainable, offering organic, biodynamic and natural wines. However, we list a wine because we think it is a great wine, regardless of certifications or awards.

How did join Unalome? 

I worked at three Glasgow institutions prior, from the first bar to offer Stella Artois on draught in the city, La Bonne Auberge, to Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or, and most recently, One Devonshire Gardens. Working in each taught me much, but it was when the Head Chef at the latter, Gary Townsend, who worked with Graeme at Cameron House, was speaking excitedly about his friend’s new restaurant that I knew that Unalome was going to be THE next restaurant in Glasgow, and I wanted to be part of it. A few phone calls later, I was on-board.

What was the first wine to move you? 

Probably Wolf Blass which holds a special place in my heart because it reminds me of family dinners with my grandfather who would have one glass at dinner while offering my two older sisters a sip or two – although I was too young to try it.

Describe the list at Unalome? 

As well as listing the usual suspects, we wanted to introduce familiar grapes from unfamiliar regions and unfamiliar grapes from familiar regions. Wine being much more than a drink, our list is there to start conversations both with guests and our team; even the kitchen staff have begun their wine education. With bottles ranging from £30-£4,000, there is wine for any occasion. The wines which draw attention tend to be those with the highest numbers beside them, be they DRC Richebourg or Pétrus. However, we have added more unique offerings such as the dry Y by Château d’Yquem, and Ao-Yun a big, bold Bordeaux-style wine from Yunnan, China.

How do you list a wine? 

A list from a singular mind is not a list for the masses so all members of our team are invited to raise their voice at tastings. This has definitely been the most involved kitchen team I have worked with, which has been a real pleasure.

Noting you are a qualified Whisky Ambassador, are you involved in the spirits selection?

Again, the team is involved in tastings and discussion on new spirits and cocktails though I am slightly more singularly responsible here. I am working with Graeme to introduce spirits into the matching flight, pairing chocolate torte with Auchentoshan Triple Wood.

What is it like working with Graeme? 

Very few days off go by where we aren’t messaging each other. Having previously briefly worked on the other side of the kitchen pass, I find it fascinating watching how he goes about service and even prep jobs; we even joked about me getting back in the kitchen!

What has been a fertile match?

Our wine flights allow the opportunity to push people slightly outside of their comfort zone. On one, we paired a slightly chilled, savoury, black olive and blackberry Xinomavro from Greek Macedonia with turbot, cauliflower and smoked mussel sauce. It’s always interesting to observe the reaction when you announce fish and red, but being light and fresh, the wine cut through without overwhelming.

What wines won’t work with Graeme’s dishes? 

Big or heavy wines. Graeme’s dishes feature just four or five ingredients done simply and done well, so finding the correct balance is vital.

What does Graeme drink? 

Monkey 47. 45ml gin with 180ml tonic. He is that precise. Or Charles Heidsieck, which is arguably one of the best “food” Champagnes.

What do you crave after a long day? 

Typically, having sampled the wines at the restaurant all day, I reach for a cold, crisp, refreshing lager.

What has been the most rewarding service experience at Unalome?

There are two stand-out services: our first day open, 2nd June 2021, which went a lot smoother than anyone expected, even if we could not sell any alcohol due to Scottish COVID restrictions, then, Christmas Eve 2021, suffering from staff shortages due to COVID. But it capped off a great first six months for us all: an incredibly wholesome moment reflecting back to the opening.

What have critics said of the restaurant? 

Ron Makenna from the Herald said, “Unalome? Get a table while you can. There’s gonna be a rush” – and there certainly has been. However, the feedback from our guests is far more important than any critic.

What is the nicest thing a guest said? 

A couple quipped that our opening in Glasgow is the only reason they chose to stay in the city, and being artists, they very kindly painted every member of staff an individual picture for Christmas.

What was it like opening during the pandemic?

I don’t think Graeme nor I would look to do it again, but we were just happy to be open at all.

What was the main takeaway you took from studying Physics, Mathematics and Astronomy at the University of Glasgow?

Both my parents being teachers, university was always the pinnacle for me, and this glorious, magical thing that would guarantee success. Though I left after my first year as I was bored, despite it being a subject which, one year prior, was all I could talk or think about. I left to take up hospitality full-time and have not looked back. A degree means nothing if you are in a job that doesn’t make you happy.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

I have three pet ferrets: Loki, Lucifer and Tamagotchi. They make great pets for hospitality professionals given they can sleep up to 18 hours a day, so no need to worry about them when you are not in the house.

What is the last book you read which made sense?

The Art of War by Sun Tzu which I read when I was planning on joining the army, although it is full of useful insights for the modern restaurant world. “Those whose upper and lower ranks have the same desire are victorious.”

Who should prospective team members contact if they want to join Unalome?

If you have passion and the desire to be here, then we will give you everything else: manager@unalomebygc.com .