Seven sensational bone dry Rieslings and one sparkling

We bring you a selection of seven sensational bone dry Rieslings and one sparkling from our latest Global Riesling Masters, taking in wines from Alsace, Austria, Alto Adige and the Eden Valley.

The wines have all been selected from the only major competition for all styles and sources of Riesling, which this year took place on 5 February at Les 110 de Taillevent restaurant in London W1.

A full analysis on the results of the tasting – plus all the medallists – can be seen by clicking here, while my top picks from the competition can be viewed over the following pages.

The judges in this year’s competition (pictured below, left to right) were: Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW; Patrick Schmitt MW; Jonathan Pedley MW; David Round MW.

A quick guide to terms

RS: stands for ‘residual sugar’, indicating the amount of sugar contained in the wine following fermentation. If, during alcoholic fermentation, the fermentation finishes, or is stopped before all of the sugar in the grapes is converted to alcohol, then the wine will contain an element of ‘residual sugar’. Because Riesling is a grape with very high levels of natural acidity, this sugar is rarely perceptible to the drinker at low levels.

TDN: stands for ‘1, 1, 6, -trimethyl-1,2-dihydronapthalene’. It is a compound that gives the kerosene or petrol aromas in Riesling, and can often be found in older wines due to the hydrolysis of TDN precursors over time, as well as in younger wines from Rieslings exposed to warmer temperatures or high degrees of sunlight.

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley, USA, 2018

The judges in our Global Riesling Masters were delighted to find this crisp white from the Columbia Valley AVA in Washington State, not just because it was delicious, but also because it was, compared to its quality level, extremely affordable at around £12 a bottle.

What the judges said:
A lovely ripe concentrated style of Riesling, with masses of fresh peach, and a long, linear, almost biting finish. A wine of purity, intensity, freshness and fantastic value.

ABV: 12.5%
RS: 7g/l
Price: Approx £12
Score: 90
Medal: Silver

Kellerei Bozen, Riesling, Alto Adige, Italy, 2018

Another good-value find in this year’s Riesling Masters hailed from the high altitude vineyards of northern Italy, where cool fresh air from the Dolomites and high-tech winemaking brings pristine white wines, like this one from Kellerei Bozen.

What the judges said:
An intense ripe, almost Viognier-like Riesling with notes of orange blossom and apricot, although, unlike Viognier, this wine finishes with a firm acidity and a gently chalky grip. A lovely fruity style of dry Riesling.

ABV: 12.5%
RS: 3g/l
Price: Approx £18
Score: 90
Medal: Silver

Wakefield/Taylors Wines, St Andrews Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia, 2018

With Clare Valley probably Australia’s most famous source of crisp dry Riesling, it was pleasing to discover this delicious example from the region.

Made by Wakefield/Taylors Wines, it had the freshly-sliced lime and chalky dry sensation that is so closely associated with this part of the world. Not only that, but at a around £20, it’s not too pricy.

Indeed, of a similar quality and style in our Riesling Masters this year was a sample sold by Aldi, under it’s own brand called ‘Exquisite Collection’, which we later found out was supplied by Wakefield/Taylors Wines. Definitely a great entry point for lovers of bone-dry Aussie Riesling.

What the judges said about the St Andrews Riesling:
Packed with peach and lime and grapefruit flavours, complemented by a hint of petrol, this is a fruity Riesling with just a touch of TDN, and masses of mouthwatering, lingering citrus on the finish.

ABV: 12.5%
RS: 8g/l
Price: Approx £15
Score: 90
Medal: Silver

Australian Vintage, McGuigan The Shortlist Riesling, Eden Valley, Australia, 2013 and 2019

A perennial top performer in the Global Masters series, whether it concerns Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz or Chardonnay, McGuigan did it again when it came to Riesling.
This producer impressed our panel with two Rieslings, both under the same label, called ‘Shortlist’, but from different vintages.
An older library release example, hailing from the 2013 harvest, had toasty aromatics, and a distinct note of petrol, a hallmark of aged Riesling, along with masses of fresh lime fruit.
Meanwhile, a younger sample from 2019 attracted praise for its intense peach and citrus fruit and bright finish. Take your pick.

What the judges said about the 2013 ‘Shortlist’:
Toasty, nutty nose, similar to aged Semillion from Hunter Valley, with a touch of burnt rubber TDN character too, but in an attractive way that’s reminiscent of aged Riesling.
While the palate is very petrolly, like four star spilt on the forecourt, it combines this with intense lemon-lime citrus bite. A lovely mature style of Riesling.

ABV: 11%
RS: N/A
Price: Approx £17
Score: 91
Medal: Silver

What the judges said about the 2019 ‘Shortlist’:
Masses of peach and grape flavours with an oily texture and chalky, fresh, bone dry finish, this is an extremely youthful fresh Riesling with plenty of ripe fruit too.

ABV: 12.2%
RS: N/A
Price: Approx £17
Score: 90
Medal: Silver

Domaines Schlumberger, Riesling Grand Cru Saering, Alsace, France, 2015

Among the many samples in our Global Riesling Masters, this one from Alsace shone for its weight, intensity and great range of flavours, showing that when done well, this part of the wine world is a leader for bone-dry wines from this noble grape.

What the judges said:
A wonderful mix of honey, blossom, beeswax, peach and ripe apple fruits, this Riesling has layers of flavour, and complex notes that are suggestive of botrytis-infected berries. It successfully combines an oily palate-texture with a fresh, dry and extremely persistent finish. Delicious.

ABV: 14%
RS: 4g/l
Price: Approx £25
Score: 93
Medal: Gold

Howard Park, Museum Release, Mount Barker Riesling, Great Southern Australia, 2013

Much of great Riesling’s appeal emerges as the wine slowly ages, and that’s why it’s wonderful to find older vintages from skilled producers, perfectly stored.
One exciting find that showed all the delicious traits of mature Riesling in our most recent tasting was a ‘Museum Release’ Riesling from Howard Park wines in Australia.
Taken from the 2013 vintage, seven years worth of bottle-age had brought plenty of nutty complexity to this Riesling, even though the citrus freshness one might expect of a much younger wine was still evident.

What the judges said:
A lovely Riesling mixing flavours of lightly-burnt toast, a touch of lemon and lime fruit, along with a hint of petrol. The wine ends with a firm acid-fresh finish, and the overall style is suggestive of a good, complex, mature dry Riesling.

ABV: 12%
RS: N/A
Price: Approx £25
Score: 93
Medal: Gold

Schloss Gobelsburg, Ried Heiligenstein 1 ÖTW, Erste Lage, Kamptal, Austria, 2017

Although I have chosen to highlight the 2017 vintage of this great Riesling from Kamptal’s Heiligenstein vineyard, crafted so expertly by Schloss Gobelsburg, the younger 2018 sample, or indeed older 2016 one, were also in this year’s tasting, and both were amazing Rieslings.
It’s just that I liked the 2017 vintage expression the most, as it showed an extra layer of concentration and honeyed depth, with wonderful characters that were reminiscent of Sauternes, but without the sweetness.

What the judges said:
A delicious and intense dry Riesling with an oily texture, an intense honeyed taste suggestive of the inclusion of botrytis-infect grapes, along with a touch of late-harvest raisin-like fruit, wax, peach and pineapple. The wine then finishes dry, clean, fresh, a touch grippy with a lovely lemon zest lift that just lasts and lasts and lasts.

ABV: 13.5%
RS: N/A
Price: Approx £40
Score: 97
Medal: Gold

And finally… Kessler Sekt, Riesling Reserve, Brut, 2016

It’s sometimes forgotten that Riesling also makes fantastic traditional-method sparkling wine, which is called Sekt. Although mostly consumed in Germany, it is worth seeking out this style of fizz for its enticing apple and citrus aromatics, bright acidity, and creamy mouthfeel. And this year’s Riesling Masters saw us find this particularly good and keenly-priced example from Kessler.

What the judges said:
This open, aromatic fizz is clearly made with Rielsing, with notes of petrol, lime and a touch of white flowers. In the mouth there is a lovely, persistent creamy mousse, and slightly oily texture, offset by a fresh and lightly chalky, slightly tart finish. If you are looking for something more piercing than your average Prosecco, but for a similar price, then this is it. 

ABV: 12%
RS: N/A
Price: Approx £15
Score: 91
Medal: Silver

About the competition

The Global Riesling Masters is a competition created and run by the drinks business, and forms part of its successful Masters series for noble grape varieties, such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as major wine styles, from sparkling to rosé, and famous regions like Rioja and Tuscany. The competition is exclusively for Riesling, and the entries were judged using Schott Zwiesel Cru Classic glasses supplied by Wine Sorted. The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Riesling Master.

The entries were judged on 5 February at Les 110 de Taillevent restaurant in London W1. This report features the medal-winners only.

Please visit the Global Masters website for more information, or, to enter future competitions – giving you the chance to feature online and in print – please call +44 (0) 20 7803 2420 or email Sophie Raichura at: sophie@thedrinksbusiness.com