Asian Masters round-up

Taking in a variety of wines and spirits, dbHK recently staged a quartet of Masters competitions, to gauge the quality of wines and spirits that are available in Asia.

PINOT NOIR MASTERS – ASIA
Thanks to Burgundy, the delicate traits of Pinot Noir have swept through both the Chinese and Hong Kong markets; yet beyond the prestigious region, what else does the variety have to offer? In our 2019 Pinot Noir Masters – Asia competition, the judges had a chance to discover this for themselves.

“The problem for Pinot Noir is the grape is so hard to grow, and as such the production cost is relatively high,” said judge Hugo Poon, head of sourcing at Quintessentially. “At times at retail level, drinkers are faced with a rather expensive price point to get some decent quality.” This held true in our competition because the panel did not think much of samples under HK$200, But there were exceptions, including Aldi’s Exquisite Collection Pinot Noir and the Montalto Pennon Hill Pinot Noir, both of which were Silver medal winners. The former, which was priced under HK$100, revealed a powerful and concentrated palate with a decent finish; while the latter was a good example of “a simple wine in an old world style that’s good value for money”, according to Vincent Chue, manager and sommelier of Lá Bò Lá.

Hahn Pinot Noir from the cool-climate Arroyo Seco region of Monterey County in the US received a Silver medal too. Romain Loriot, founder and managing director at Think Wine Bar, said: “The New World-style Pinot Noir has good intensity, with good integration of oak, pleasant to drink.”

In the lower price range, Pinot Noir being made as rosé wine provoked some positive responses from the judges. Silver awardee McGuigan Rosé 2018 was a particular standout. Moving up to the category of wines costing less than HK$300, the wines became more desirable.

Preparing to judge the Pinot Noir Masters

In recent years, the continuing evolution of New Zealand’s Pinot Noirs has received a lot of attention. Rockburn Pinot Noir 2017, made in Central Otago, is a good example, and its quality was worthy of a Gold in the judges’ eyes. Jean Benoit Issele, founder and executive Sommelier of Think Wine Bar, enjoyed its “rich and smooth layers with silky tannins”.

Santolin did a great job with its two single-vineyard Pinot Noirs, although the judges preferred the one from the Gruyère Vineyard better and awarded it a Gold. Food-and-beverages consultant Yu-Kong Chow liked its “deep and rich palate filled with rose petals, spice and vanilla notes”.

The panel was in awe of Montalto’s Pinot Noirs from Mornington Peninsula. The single-vineyard creations were highly praised by the judges. Merrick’s Block Pinot Noir, one of the Masters winners, reminded Chue of Pinots from Chambolle-Musigny with its pure nose and floral-driven palate. Tuerong Block Pinot Noir attained a Gold medal. Chow reckoned the wine had “fresh acidity, soft tannins and good balance”.

Hailing from California, Duckhorn Protfolio passed with flying colours, receiving two Master medals. Issele said Migration Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir illustrated the best example of Pinot Noir in a New World style with ageing potential; on the other hand, Poon admired Kosta Browne Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017 because of its sumptuous flavours, including sweet rose petals, spicy blueberry, nutmeg, violet, perfect integration with its alcohol and a luxurious long finish. He said the wine could have aged up to 10 years. With regards the three Masters, with the exception of Kosta Browne Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017 which is priced under HK$1,000, the other two fall into the sub-HK$400 category, showing the value for money there is in many New World wine regions.

Pinot Noir Masters – Asia 2019

SHIRAZ MASTERS – ASIA
In our Shiraz Masters, we examined the different expressions made from this popular variety emanating from the New World in particular.

Taylors/Wakefield Wines, an Australian producer in Clare Valley, shone in the under HK$200 category. Two of its entries were awarded Gold medals in this price band. Hugo Poon said the Jaraman Shiraz had “very pretty notes of sweet violet and blueberry with nutmeg and vanilla”, and called it, “rich, generous and well balanced”. Ken Man, buyer and fine wine specialist at Ginsberg+Chan, on the other hand, preferred the producer’s Estate Shiraz, which he said had, “dark fruit with rose petals and black pepper. The wine shows good layers of flavours.” In the less-than HK$300 price bracket, Australian Vintage, a leading producer from Adelaide Hills in South Australia, submitted Tempus Two Pewter Shiraz across the vintages from 2015 to 2017. The 2016 proved the standout, Lá Bò Lá’s Vincent Chue, saying the wine had “nice balance with fruit and oak, smooth and elegant, good to drink now”.

Barossa Valley Wine Company, another winery under the Australian Vintage umbrella, attained a Gold medal for its Farms Shiraz 2017. Zachary Yu, head sommelier of Cincin, said: “Oak character is present in the wine but it answers well with the body. It has fine tannins, and the potential is high.”

As the prices rose, we saw an obvious improvement in wine quality. Our judges had their eyes on the Side-wood Mappinga Shiraz, which costs HK$880, and won a Gold medal. The judges were attracted to the, “great intensity and nice balance despite the high alcohol content” said Yu-Kong Chow.

We saw two Masters in entries with price tags above HK$1,000. Taylors/Wakefield’s ‘The Pioneer’ Shiraz struck the panel with its “well-made and expressive character with a luxury touch”, according to Yu. Casa Viña Syrah Family Collection from Casas del Bosque also received positive responses, Ken Man liking its “powerful structure that shows a lot of ripening and juicy flavours”. Touching on the Syrah blends, the flight displayed a great variety of wines of intriguing compositions and from interesting regions. Alpha Estate from Greece has wines under HK$200 in two expressions, a 60% Syrah, 20% Merlot, 20% Xinomavro blend, and a 50% Syrah, 50% Xinomavro one. The former earned a Silver medal, while the latter was awarded a Bronze. Terry Wong, retail manager & sommelier at Ginsberg+Chan liked both of them. “The blend with the higher Syrah composition shows rich black fruit notes with a hint of olive,” he said.

Australian wine producer De Bortoli Wines likewise offered up some compelling blends, such as Deen Vat 8 Shiraz 2017, a finely tuned blend of 99.8% Syrah, 0.1% Ruby Cabernet and 0.1% Petit Verdot. Man thought the wine had “good ripe fruit character, and the finish is well balanced, but I wonder what do that 0.1% Ruby Cabernet and 0.1% Petit Verdot contribute to the wine?”

Poon concluded: “All in all, the blends are very successful. Most of them illustrate good integration with other grapes and with such a good price.”

Syrah Masters – Asia 2019

THE WORLD WHISKY MASTERS – ASIA
Nowadays whisky producers enjoy much freedom and flexibility in distilleries around the world. Moving away from Scotland, the traditional whisky heartland, world whiskies are enjoying burgeoning acclaim and consumers are keen on tasting these new creations. In these regions, whisky makers enjoy experimenting, using innovative methods. For instance, Taiwanese Nantou whisky Omar ages its whiskies in casks that previously held fruit liqueur. The outcomes are diverse and encouraging, as we saw in the latest edition of The World Whisky Masters – Asia.

For American Bourbon under HK$500, Buffalo Trace Distillery in Kentucky excelled with two Silver and Gold medals. One of the Gold winners, Straight Bourbon Whisky without age statement, caught the judges’ attention with its “honey, citrus peel and spice notes and pretty long finish,” said Yu-Kong Chow.

Given that the bottle is priced at a mere HK$195, the panel agreed the whisky expressed a lot of elegance at this price point.

Another Gold medal award-winner, Eagle Rare 10 Year Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, at HK$300, showed complex flavours as well. Terry Wong of Ginsberg + Chan said the Bourbon trend in Hong Kong is strong, although not as big as Sherry-cask-aged Scotch whisky, and consumption is largely driven by bars where discerning drinkers are looking for specific cocktails, such as the Bourbon Old Fashioned.

In this competition, the judges awarded Masters medals to two expressions. Brown-Forman’s Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky, which falls into the price category from between HK$300 to HK$500, is a fantastic whisky with a humble price tag. Chow said: “The nose is pronounced and consistent, and on the palate I liked the mellowness and nice balance.”

Moving to Australasia, Archie Rose Rye Malt Whisky gained excellent responses from the panel. Wong liked the whisky as “the oaky vanilla nose is very strong and persistent. On the palate it is very balanced with a soft touch of acidity to strengthen the structure.”

We also had an entry from India in this edition. Awarded a Silver medal, All Seasons Reserve Whisky, priced at kess than HK$150, was thought good value for money, given the whisky itself is in a decent peaty and citrusy style.

“India is a massive whisky-drinking nation, though a large amount of whisky produced there stays in the domestic market,” Chow said. “There are so many intriguing and quality distilleries scattered around Asia, in countries such as India and Taiwan, that are worth keeping track of.”

World Whisky Masters – Asia 2019

ASIAN LUXURY MASTERS
Spirit producers around the world are keen on innovating with their products. In the Asian Luxury Masters 2019, the panel tasted a range of spirits covering vodka, whisky, gin and rum. Beginning with vodka, the organic spirits from Purity Distillery received several medals including a Master, Gold and Silver medal. The Master winner ‘Super 17 Premium Organic Vodka’, was thought particularly exceptional. As Ken Man, described it, ”the texture is full of malty creaminess and it is only premium vodka that can achieve this smoothness.”

Moving up the price point to under HK$500, Thailand’s ‘Iron Balls Vodka’ aroused our judges’ attention with its clean and pure texture. Indeed, Iron Balls is a trendy gin bar in Bangkok, and the distillery was set up in the bar. Apart from vodka, it also produces good quality gin which took a Gold in the competition. “The gin has a strong yuzu and citrus notes that resemblances a lot of Japanese gins. It will be perfect for making a Martini.” Gagan Gurung, wine and spirits consultant and owner of Tell Camilla Cocktail Bar, said.

Copperhead Gin was another standout performer. Its The Gibson Edition won a Master for its pronounced layers of botanical fragrance, including coriander, cucumber and cinnamon; while Gold medallist Copperhead Gin Black Batch showed some interesting flavours, such as black tea and liquorice.

For the whisky flights, therte were four bottles from Australia, and the panel enjoyed the entries, such as the Rochfort Single Malt (White), which was given a Gold medal for its “beautiful intensity with rich and long finish”, according to Terry Wong.

The two entries from Australian distillery Chiefs Son were single malt whiskies, which earned a Master and a Gold. For the former, the judges liked the “peaty notes with some bitter herbal fragrance like ginseng”, according to Cecilia Wong, spirit columnist and critic.

During the tasting, the panel was excited by one particularly interesting entry – Penfolds Lot 518 Spirited Wine with Baijiu, which won a Silver medal in the competition. Classified as a specialty spirit, it is a Shiraz that has undergone a two-stage fortification process, with Baijiu as the second spirit addition. The creation is bold but the panel felt there was room to perfect the blend. “I am a bit confused because there are both Baijiu and Shiraz characters but they don’t really speak to each other well enough,” Gurung said. As the blend was so distinctive, Wong swiftly identified the bottle before we unveiled it, “this bottle enjoyed an overwhelming response in China because the inclusion of Baijiu, a national drink in China, really works in the market. Set aside the tasting, this is a good marketing gimmick to catch the Chinese’s attention,” she said.

Luxury Masters – Asia 2019