Where winemakers dine: Champagne edition

There was a time when Champagne, despite being home to one of the wine world’s most popular exports, was largely closed to tourism.

People, it seemed, would more readily drink Champagne rather than visit Champagne. This was due to a combined lack of enthusiasm, admittedly, on the part of producers in the region (many are still closed to visiting guests), and the fact that the region simply hadn’t yet developed as a tourist destination.

All that began to change, in earnest, in 2015, when the region was granted UNESCO World Heritage status, which includes its famed cellars, cathedral city of Reims, vineyards and Avenue de Champagne in Epernay. Now, Champagne is on the map as a global tourist destination,

In 2017, Champagne recorded a 15.5% increase in visitors to its cellars, rising from 255,633 in 2016 to 294,672 in 2017, according to Vitalie Taittinger, artistic director at Champagne Taittinger. Overnight stays in the region have also risen by 16% since 2010, compared with 2018, with tourism responsible for bringing an additional €1m in spending to the region in 2018. Overall, more than three million people visited the wider Champagne region in 2017, up by more than 15% in three years.

The historic city of Reims – the urban gateway to Champagne’s vineyards – is just 45 minutes by train from Paris, and is filled with hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants. Travel 20 minutes east from Reims and you will reach Épernay, the capital of Champagne, and home to some of the region’s biggest houses, including Moët and Chandon, Pol Roger and Perrier-Jouët, as well as boutique restaurants, wine bars and vineyards.

Champagne is open for business, with plenty of top restaurants, including many Michelin-starred establishments, scattered throughout. But deciding on a winner isn’t always easy. Rather than sifting through TripAdvisor, we have gone direct to the source, and asked some of the region’s top winemakers for their recommendations on where to eat and drink in Champagne.

Click through to see where they choose to spend their money when dining out…

Charles Philipponnat, owner, Champagne Philipponnat

“Champagne is rife with Michelin-starred restaurants: L’Assiette Champenoise, Les Crayères, Le Grand Cerf, the new Royal Champagne with its fabulous views over the Marne Valley.

“Other lovely eat-outs include Les Grains d’Argent in Dizy or Le Foch in Reims, but there are many more, even Japanese (Racines in Reims), burgers (The Glue Pot, also in Reims) and even a couple of vegan places. If you like Thai, try Cooking in Épernay.

“If you like driving through the countryside a bit and are into period chateaus, try Le Château d’Etoges in Etoges, a lovely XVI century castle with a moat, or Château de Courcelles in Courcelles sur Vesle.”

Bertrand Verduzier, international business director, Champagne Gosset

“Personally, I like to go to Le Crypto in Reims. It has a great, relaxed atmosphere, excellent ingredients, a talented chef and a ‘bistro’ feel – nothing too ‘snobby’.

“It also helps, of course, that they are a good supporter of Gosset, although aside from Gosset, they also have a great wine list. Also, check out the newly opened ‘Why Not’ in Épernay. That’s fun too.”

Michel Drappier, owner, Champagne Drappier

“Hostellerie La Montagne in Colombey-les-deux-Eglises is a must in our region – fine food matching and Champagne in a quiet and elegant mansion.

“Also Les Crieurs de Vin in Troyes – great bistronomic food and an amazing Champagne list full of discoveries.”

Frédéric Zeimett, CEO, Champagne Leclerc Briant

“Racine in Reims, Le Foch in Reims and Le Grand Cerf in Montchenot – all one Michelin-starred. I also enjoy going to Au Bon Manger in Reims managed by Aline and Eric Serva, which is more casual.

“They have a fantastic selection of organic and biodynamic Champagnes.”

Gilles de la Bassetiere, president, Champagne de Venoge

Talking only about the restaurants near Epernay, I will classify the restaurants in two categories, the “classics” and the “discoveries”. In the classics, Le Royal Champagne has the best view in Champagne, Les Berceaux the best pied de cochon in Epernay, La Briqueterie in Vinay with the best value lunch menu in Champagne, La Grillade Gourmande for its famous escargot de Champagne, Le Theatre with its home made foie gras and smoked salmon, and Le Sardaigne has the best pizza.

“For discoveries, Chez Max serves the best steak tartare in Champagne, and Chez Shao is the best Chinese in Epernay, and finally L’écurie for tapas and Champagne de Venoge.”

Vitalie Taittinger, artistic director, Champagne Taittinger

“The wine bar and grocery shop Au bon Manger in Reims, owned by Aline and Eric, a couple of adventurers, who only choose small producers and families who work responsibly. The selection includes cheeses, wild salmon, beautiful charcuterie and natural wines.

“Racine in Reims was opened by Japanese chef Kazuyuki Tanaki a few years ago and was later awarded a Michelin star. In Troyes, Le Crieur de Vin offers a very good selection of Champagne and the food is very tasty, with a beautiful twist.

“In Épernay, Chez Max is a very traditional local restaurant where the food is real and fresh, without any chichi. Very often you will cross paths with Champagne producers.”