Slideshow

Where to dine in Champagne

05 July 2019 By Patrick Schmitt

Following news that the region of Champagne is promoting itself as a major tourist destination, we round up the best places to eat in the appellation – according to those who live and work in it.

Two star dining at Le Parc within the hotel Les Crayeres

It was announced yesterday by the drinks business that the region of Champagne has created a new slogan and logo to encapsulate its appeal to tourists – La Champagne, refined art de vivre – coupled with a new website for potential visitors – visitlachampagne.travel

However, for many years db has been exploring the options available to those travelling to and through Champagne, and in our latest Champagne Report – which can be downloaded here – we looked closely at the best places to eat and drink in the region.

As part of this, we also quizzed some of the key figures in the region on where they like to eat and drink – which we have reproduced for your reference below and over the following pages.

From my own perspective, having visited the region annually for more than 15 years, I have a few places that I particularly like to dine at, which, initially, I have shared below.

Reims

Scallops served to me in January this year at Le Crypto

If you have never been to Les Crayères hotel on the outskirts of the city, then this is a must for the gourmand, primarily for its Michelin two-star restaurant called Le Parc. However, for something less pricy, and less formal, with a wonderful bright feel and first-rate food, then I’ve always been fond of the same place’s Brasserie le Jardin, set in hotel’s landscaped grounds.

Unless you are staying at the hotel itself, going to either of these restaurants requires a car or a cab, and because I usually stay in the centre of Reims, I tend to go to places within walking distance. If I can get a table, somewhere I always enjoy dining at is Le Crypto, on the pleasant Place du Forum. The food is consistent, good, reasonably-priced bistro fayre, and the selection of Champagnes is brilliant, while the mark-ups are far from greedy. It’s why the place is always filled with cellarmasters from the major grandes marques to the smaller grower Champagnes. If you have to wait for a table, or just want a drink before or after dinner, then a few doors down is a fun wine bar, with good charcuterie, called Le Wine Bar by Le Vintage, which I also thoroughly recommend.

One other place in Reims that I should single out is Le Foch, primarily for its fish, and specifically its sea bass cooked in a clay casing, which is cracked open in front of the diner.

Epernay

Corks show Champagne consumption month by month at La Grillade Gourmande

If I’m in Epernay, then there are more mid-range restaurants that appeal to my tastes than I find in Reims, even though the former city is much smaller.

And somewhere I always like to lunch at is La Grillade Gourmande for excellent classic French cooking, and warm, attentive service – and a sign of the mood in the region, as the fireplace contains vases holding all the Champagne corks from bottles opened that year, arranged month by month (pictured).

For something more serious, and attracting a Michelin-star, then Les Berceaux is highly sought-after, and consistently first-rate, although I’m equally happy taking the more low-key dining option from this establishment, which is called Bistro le 7.

And if you want to wander up the legendary Avenue de Champagne, then as you near the top, on the left hand side, take a flute of fizz at the wonderful nineteenth century château now owned by De Venoge, which has turned one of its gatehouses into a wine and tapas bar called L’Écurie, while the other offers cosy and upmarket accommodation – should you need it.

Outside the cities

The best seat in Champagne: the view from Royal Champagne’s terrace

There’s also a plenty to choose from if you have a car and you want to head into the countryside of Champagne. Among the options I urge you to try the Michelin-starred Le Grand Cerf, although leaving the car park requires decisive driving – it empties onto a sharp bend as the traffic races down a steep descent from the Montagne de Reims towards the city by the same name.

And, on the other side of the same mountain, with a view over the Marne Valley towards Epernay, is the new Royal Champagne Hotel. I have yet to dine here, but the terrace is a must for the view, and the bar is seriously well stocked, but the drinks seriously pricy too.

For something more basic, but nearby, I have never had a bad meal at the charming brasserie in the heart of Aÿ, called Rôtisserie Henri IV.

Another good place nearby, but without the same atmospheric charm, is Les Grains d’Argent.

Now, read on for the top dining choices in Champagne from those who live and work in the region.

Michel Drappier, owner, Champagne Drappier

“Hostellerie La Montagne in Colombey-les-deux-Eglises is a must in our region – fine food matching and Champagne in a quiet and elegant mansion. Also Les Crieurs de Vin in Troyes – great bistronomic food and an amazing Champagne list full of discoveries.”

Charles Philipponnat, owner, Champagne Philipponnat

“Champagne is rife with Michelin-starred restaurants: L’Assiette Champenoise, Les Crayères, Le Grand Cerf, the new Royal Champagne with its fabulous views over the Marne Valley. Other lovely eat-outs include Les Grains d’Argent in Dizy or Le Foch in Reims, but there are many more, even Japanese (Racines in Reims), burgers (The Glue Pot, also in Reims) and even a couple of vegan places. If you like Thai, try Cooking in Épernay. If you like driving through the countryside a bit and are into period châteaux, try Le Château d’Étoges in Étoges, a lovely 16th-century castle with a moat, or Château de Courcelles in Courcelles-sur-Vesle.”

Bertrand Verduzier, international business director, Champagne Gosset

“I like to go to Le Crypto in Reims. It has a great, relaxed atmosphere, excellent ingredients, a talented chef and a ‘bistro’ feel – nothing too snobby. It also helps, of course, that they are a good supporter of Gosset, although aside from Gosset, they also have a great wine list. Also, check out the newly opened Why Not in Épernay. That’s fun too.”

Vitalie Taittinger, artistic director, Champagne Taittinger

“The wine bar and grocery shop Au Bon Manger in Reims, owned by Aline and Eric Serva, a couple of adventurers, who only choose small producers and families who work responsibly. The selection includes cheeses, wild salmon, beautiful charcuterie and natural wines. Racine, in Reims, was opened by Japanese chef Kazuyuki Tanaka a few years ago, and was later awarded a Michelin star. In Troyes, Le Crieur de Vin offers a very good selection of Champagne, and the food is very tasty, with a beautiful twist. In Épernay, Chez Max is a very traditional local restaurant where the food is real and fresh, without any chi-chi. Very often you will cross paths with Champagne producers.”

Frédéric Zeimett, CEO, Champagne Leclerc Briant

“Racine and Le Foch in Reims, and Le Grand Cerf in Montchenot – all one Michelin-starred. I also enjoy going to Au Bon Manger in Reims managed by Aline and Eric Serva, which is more casual. They have a fantastic selection of organic and biodynamic Champagnes.”

Gilles de la Bassetiere, president, Champagne de Venoge

“Talking only about the restaurants near Épernay, I will classify the restaurants in two categories, the ‘classics’ and the ‘discoveries’.

In the classics, Le Royal Champagne has the best view in Champagne, Les Berceaux the best pied de cochon in Épernay, La Briqueterie in Vinay has the best-value lunch menu in Champagne, La Grillade Gourmande for its famous escargot de Champagne, Le Theatre with its homemade foie gras and smoked salmon, and Le Sardaigne has the best pizza. For discoveries, Chez Max serves the best steak tartare in Champagne, and Chez Shao is the best Chinese in Épernay. And finally, [de Venoge’s] L’Écurie for tapas and Champagne de Venoge.”