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Asian Pinot Noir Masters 2018: Results in Full

The results from our Pinot Noir Masters Asia showed once more that New Zealand, California and Australian Pinot Noir continue to compare favourably with Burgundy.

Left to right: Reeze Choi, Corinne Mui, COO of AWSEC; Derek Li, group sommelier at JIA Group and Duddell’s; Salbolcs Menesi, hotel sommelier at Island Shangri-la; Linden Wilkie, director of Fine Wine Experience; Lina Anderson; Natalie Wang, managing editor at the drinks business Hong Kong; Sophie Raichura, sales manager at the drinks business; and Bangkok-based British novelist Lawrence Osborne

In contrast to our previous varietal-focused wine competitions, Pinot Noir judging compared with more robust Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz can quickly descend into a hair-splitting debate. Arguably one of the most difficult grapes to handle, prone to spring frost and coulure in the vineyards and over-extraction in the cellar, the thin-skinned grape as judge Lawrence Osborne observed is “very temperamental”.

The antenna to find greatness is naturally more attuned at judging and, unforgivingly, any fault to be found in the fickle grape, more perhaps than in any other red variety, is unmistaken and amplified. Herbaceousness in unripe green fruits is translated into head-spinning weedkiller-like odour, while a jammy and inky Pinot is so out of character that makes you wonder if you are tasting a Rioja.

We are after all talking about Pinot Noir, a grape that doesn’t require much make-up or any at all. In fact, heavy-handed use of extraction or oak will end up masking the aromatics and typicity of the grape. The one place that has mastered the art of making Pinot Noir down to every single climat is Burgundy, which has coined a much imitated “Burgundian style.”

A great Pinot Noir, according to Linden Wilkie, founder and managing director The Fine Wine Experience, “gives a sense of lift. It’s all bouquet and on the palate [it] should feel almost gossamer light and silky while somewhere paradoxically delivering an overwhelming and lingering sense of fragrance.”

The idea of a superb Pinot is so romanticised that any wine region that is cool enough nowadays is making an attempt at mastering the grape. Many do so unsuccessfully but many more have triumphed as our results will show.

This year’s samples consisted of entries mainly from New World countries as well as Old World examples from France (excluding Burgundy paradoxically), Austria, Italy, and Greece though missing Switzerland and Germany two other important areas. The results revealed some serious contenders that are more than ready to take up the reign if the ever popular Burgundy continues to spike in price.

“Since Burgundy prices rocketed over the past few years, consumers are showing more and more interest in alternative regions for the grape variety. Pinot Noirs from the Loire Valley, Nahe, Baden, Central Otago, Sonoma or even Eastern European countries such as Hungary are getting more and more attention,” commented Szabolcs Menesi, head sommelier at the Island Shangri-la Hotel.

Pinot from down under 

Henry Chang, beverage manager at the China Club, and Bangkok-based British novelist Lawrence Osborne

Outside of Burgundy, New Zealand is one of the foremost New World wine countries that has been staking its wine fortune on the red variety. Granted that the country’s reputation for Sauvignon Blanc predates Pinot Noir, but the latter might be where its future lies.

The success of the grape in the country has driven vine planting from 4,441 hectares in 2007 to 5,519 ha in 2016, according to New Zealand Winegrowers. Predominately grown in the more southernly regions such as Central Otago, Marlborough, Nelson, Waipara and Wairarapa, when done right, the grape makes elegant, structured and refined wines that can give Burgundy a good run for their money.

Highlights included Gold medallists Spy Valley Envoy Johnson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014 and Jackson Family Wines’ Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir 2016 from Marlborough. Both are in the HK$300-HK$399 price band, proving that Marlborough can produce well-crafted Pinots with fruit intensity and concentration on clay and slit loam dominated soil.

Derek Li and Corinne Mui

Another gem is from North Otago’s Ostler Caroline’s Pinot Noir 2016 made from grapes grown on the southern side of sub-region of Waitaki Valley, showing cranberry and dark cherry as well as a lift of spices.

At this year’s competition, it was Australia, a country known for Shiraz and Bordeaux blends, that delivered some of the biggest surprises.

But as Sarah Wong, wine columnist and fellow judge noted, “Australia’s cool climate regions should not be overlooked. Pinots from Mornington Peninsula, Adelaide Hills and Tasmania are producing top quality wines.” Indeed, this year the top accolade of Master (given only to wines of exceptional quality) was awarded to Montalto Pennon Hill Pinot Noir from Mornington Peninsula.

“It was a delicious wine, showing great varietal expression with discreet oak handling,” she said. The cherry on top is that the refined red falls into HK$200-HK$299 price band, making it “a great value for money”, Wong continued.

Sarah Wong, wine columnist and judge, and Szaolboc Menesi, head sommelier at Island Shangri-La Hotel

The winery’s single vineyard Tuerong Block Pinot Noir 2017 was another high performer from the competition, taking home a Gold although carrying a higher price tag in the HK$400 to HK$799 band.

Further south in Tasmania was where another Pinot Noir, this time from the Tertini winery, captured the judges’ attention, winning a Gold.

De Bortoli’s single vineyard, small-plot Riorret Lusatia Park Pinot Noir made from old vines planted in Woori Yallock, on the upper side of the Yarra Valley, had a lovely brightness and lift and also won Gold. 

In California, a place that has likewise been more associated with Cabernet and Zinfindal in the past, has also carved out pockets of plots suitable for Pinot, often shrouded by Pacific fogs near the coast, or in areas at high elevation. One success was found in the Hahn Family Pinot Noir in southern California’s Monterey County.

Linden Wilkie, director of The Fine Wine Experience, checking wines after their identities are revealed

Grown primarily in the cool-climate Arroyo Seco region of Monterey County on gravelly alluvial plain at the foot of the Santa Lucia mountains, the grapes benefit from the cool winds that come in from Monterey Bay, which ensures gradual ripening and ideal development of vibrant flavours, producing a fruit-driven wine with finesse and balance.

Click through the pages to find out more details about the competition, the judges and most importantly the results. 

 

About the competition:

In a crowded wine-competition arena, the drinks business Asian Pinot Noir Masters stands out for its assessment of wines purely by grape variety rather than by region. Divided only by price bracket and, for ease of judging, style too, the blind-tasting format allowed wines to be assessed without prejudice about their country of origin.

The best wines were awarded medals that ranged from Bronze through to Gold, as well as Master, the ultimate accolade, given only to exceptional wines in the tasting.

The wines were judged by a cherry-picked group of sommeliers, senior wine buyers, educators and writers on 28 October at The Flying Winemaker in Central.

This report features only the medal-winners.

Judges: 

Left to right: Reeze Choi, Corinne Mui, COO of AWSEC; Derek Li, group sommelier at JIA Group and Duddell’s; Salbolcs Menesi, hotel sommelier at Island Shangri-la; Linden Wilkie, director of Fine Wine Experience; Lina Anderson; Natalie Wang, managing editor at the drinks business Hong Kong; Sophie Raichura, sales manager at the drinks business; and Bangkok-based British novelist Lawrence Osborne

Natalie Wang (chair), managing editor of the drinks business Hong Kong

Sarah Wong (co-chair), wine columnist at South China Morning Post and wine judge

Linden Wilkie, director at The Fine Wine Experience

Lawrence Osborne, Bangkok-based British novelist and author of Beautiful Animals, Only to Sleep, The Wet and The Dry 

Corinne Mui, COO of Asian Wine & Spirits Education Centre (AWSEC)

Salbolcs Menesi, head sommelier at Island Shangri-la Hotel

Reeze Choi, sommelier and runner-up of ASI Best Sommelier of Asia & Oceania 2018

Derek Li, group sommelier at JIA Group and Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant Duddell’s

Henry Chang, beverage manager at China Club

Asian Pinot Noir Masters 2018

Unoaked-Blend (min 85% Pinot Noir)

Company Product Name Winery Region Vintage Country Medal
De Bortoli Wines Pty Ltd Windy Peak Pinot Noir Victoria 2018 De Bortoli Wines Victoria 2018 Australia Bronze
Wakefield Taylors Family Wines Jaraman Pinot Noir Wakefield Taylors Family Wines Yarra Valley 2016 Australia Silver
Wakefield Taylors Family Wines Wakefield Taylors Fmaily Pinot Noir Wakefield Taylors Family Wines Adelaide Hills 2017 Australia
Wakefield Taylors Family Wines Taylor Made Family Wines Wakefield Taylors Family Wines Adelaide Hills 2017 Australia

Oaked-Blend (min 85% Pinot Noir)

Company Product Name Winery Region Vintage Country Medal
De Bortoli Wines Pty Ltd De Bortoli Villages Pinot Noir Yarra Valley 2017 De Bortoli Wines Yarra Valley 2017 Australia Silver

Oaked-100% Pinot Noir; HK$100-149

Company Product Name Winery Region Vintage Country Medal
Marisco Vineyards Leefield Station Pinot Noir Marisco Vineyards Marlborough 2017 New Zealand Bronze
Marisco Vineyards The Ned Pinot Noir ($150) Marisco Vineyards Marlborough 2016 New Zealand Silver
Yealands Wine Group Babydoll Pinot Noir Marlborough 2017 ($109) Yealands Wine Group Marlborough 2017 New Zealand Silver

Oaked-100%; HK$200-299

Company Product Name Winery Region Vintage Country Medal
Spy Valley Wines Spy Valley Southern Valleys Pinot Noir 2015 Spy Valley Wines Marlborough 2015 New Zealand Silver
De Bortoli Wines Pty Ltd The Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 De Bortoli Wines Dixons Creek / Yarra Valley 2017 Australia
Australian VIntage Limited Nepenthe Pinnacle Good Doctor Pinot Noir A.V.L Adelaide Hills 2017 Australia Bronze
Montalto Montalto Pennon Hill Pinot Noir Montalto Mornington Peninsula 2017 Australia Master
Yealands Wine Group Babydoll Pinot Noir Marlborough 2017 ($109) Yealands Wine Group Marlborough 2017 New Zealand Silver
Trinchero Family Estates Folie a Deux Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Folie a Deux Sonoma Coast 2015 USA No Medal
Trinchero Family Estates Joel Gott Oregon Pinot Noir Joel Gott Willamette Valley, Oregon 2015 USA Bronze

Oaked-100%; HK$300-399

Company Product Name Winery Region Vintage Country Medal
Spy Valley Wines Spy Valley Envoy Johnson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014 Spy Valley Wines Marlborough 2014 New Zealand Gold
De Bortoli Wines Pty Ltd Riorret Lusatia Park Pinot Noir De Bortoli Wines Yarra Valley 2017 Australia Gold
Franz Haas Srl Alto Adrige Pinot Nero Dop Franz Haas Alto Adrige 2016 Italy Bronze

Oaked-100%; HK$400-799

Company Product Name Winery Region Vintage Country Medal
Franz Haas Srl Alto Adige Pinot Nero Schnizer Dop Franz Haas Alto Adrige 2015 Italy Bronze
Yealands Wine Group Yealands Estate Winemakers Reserve Awatere Valley Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 Yealands Wine Group Marlborough 2016 New Zealand Bronze
Montalto Montalto Single Vineyard Tuerong Block Pinot Noir Montalto Mornington Peninsula 2017 Australia Gold
Cono Sur Vineyards & Winery Cono Sur Ocio 2016 Cono Sur Casa Blanca 2016 Chile Bronze

Unoaked-Blend (min 85% Pinot Noir)

Company Product Name Winery Region Vintage Country Medal
Wakefield Taylors Family Wines Promised Land Pinot Noir Wakefield Taylors Family Wines Adelaide Hills 2017 Australia Bronze
Gonzalezbyass Veramonte Pinot Noir Veramonte Casablanca Valley 2016 Chile Bronze
Gonzalezbyass Ritual Monster Pinot Noir Veramonte Casablanca Valley 2016 Chile Silver
Alma Wines SRL AMBO Nero Nero Provincia di Pavia I.G.T Alma Wines SRL Lombardy 2017 italy Bronze

Oaked-100% Pinot Noir; HK$100-149

Company Product Name Winery Region Vintage Country Medal
Australian VIntage Limited Nepenthe Altitude Pinot Noir ($128) A.V.L Adelaide Hills 2017 Australia Bronze
Australian VIntage Limited Tempus Two Platnium Pinot Noir ($120) A.V.L Adelaide Hills 2017 Australia Silver
Cono Sur Vineyards & Winery Cono Sur Reserva Especial Pinot Noir 2016 Cono Sur Vineyards & Winery San Antonio Valley 2016 Chile Silver
Alpha Estate Alpha Estate Ecosystem Pinot oit Single Block Strofi Alpha Estate Florina 2016 Greece Silver
Yealands Wine Group Yealands Estate Single Vineyard Pinot Noir Awatere Valley Marborough Yealands Wine Group Marlborough 2017 New Zealand Bronze

Oaked-100%; HK$150-199

Company Product Name Winery Region Vintage Country Medal
Hahn Family Wines Hahn Pinot Noir Monterey County Hahn Family Wines Monterey County 2016 California, USA Gold
Constellation Brands Kim Crawford NZ Pinot Noir Kim Crawford Kim Crawford 2017 New Zealand Bronze

Oaked-100%; HK$200-299

Company Product Name Winery Region Vintage Country Medal
Cono Sur Vineyards & Winery Cono Sur 20 Barrels Pinot Noir 2017 Casa Blanca Valley 2017 Chile Silver
Marisco Vineyards The King’s Wrath Marisco Vineyards Marlborough 2017 New Zealand Bronze
Tertini Wines Tertini Southern Highlands Pinot Noir Tertini Wines Southern Highlands 2017 Australia Bronze
Constellation Brands Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir Nobilo Marlborough 2016 New Zealand Gold
Leo Hillinger Gmbh Pinot Noir Terroir Leo Hillinger Burgenland 2015 Austria Silver

Oaked-100%; HK$300-399

Company Product Name Winery Region Vintage Country Medal
Yealands Wine Group Yealands Estate Single Vineyard Pinot Noir Awatere Valley Marlborough Yealands Wine Group Marlborough 2017 New Zealand Bronze
Cakebread Cellars Two Creeks Vineyards Pinor Noir Cakebread Cellar Anderson Valley 2016 United States Bronze
Montalto Montalto Estate Pinot Noir Montalto Mornington Peninsula 2017 Australia Silver
Ostler Vineyards Ltd Ostler Caroline’s Pinot Noir 2016 Ostler Vineyards Waitaki Valley, North Otago 2016 New Zealand Gold
Hahn Family Wines Hahn SLH Hahn Family Wines Monterey County 2016 California, USA Bronze

Oaked-100%; HK$400-799

Company Product Name Winery Region Vintage Country Medal
Marisco Vineyards Craft Series ‘The Journey I’ Marisco Vineyards Malborough 2014 New Zealand Silver
Marisco Vineyards Craft Series ‘The Journey II’ Marisco Vineyards Malborough 2014 New Zealand Silver
Tertini Wines Tertini Tasmania Pinot Noir Tertini Wines Tasmania 2017 Australia Gold

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