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The best wines from the Chardonnay Masters 2018
Creamy wines with stone fruit and lemon-fresh acidity were the top-scorers in 2018’s Chardonnay Masters competition, but, before revealing the results in full, Patrick Schmitt MW looks at the stylistic trends of the Chardonnay being made today.
Jonathan Pedley MW and Ana Sapungiu MW judge the wines in 2018’s Chardonnay Masters
As 2018 draws to a close and I think back over all the tastings we’ve conducted this year, I do feel that our Chardonnay Masters was the most mixed in terms of quality and style. Now, while diversity is definitely something to celebrate, I sense that Chardonnay has yet to settle into a comfortable place – they are plenty extremes in terms of texture and flavour, but seemingly few where a happy medium has been struck. As a result, I think that many winemakers should consider why consumers fell in love with this grape variety in the first place.
So what was it that made Chardonnay the most popular grape before the start of this millennium? It was its seductive, textural appeal, its combination of stone fruit flavours and lemon fresh acidity, and its unparalleled ability to successfully carry the appealing characters from certain cellar practices – so those creamy notes from malo-lactic fermentations, that nutty richness from lees contact, and the toastiness from oak, as well as a touch of vanilla if there’s new wood too. These are aspects that, when combined, create a delicious and mouth-filling glass of white wine. Something with instant appeal, and versatility.
Now, as is so often the case with success stories, the situation can turn sour when people take things too far. As we know, this happened with Chardonnay. Looking back, I suppose there was a sense that if people liked the characters described above in moderation, they would enjoy them even more if they were amplified. The problem was that the delicious nature of good Chardonnay came about when such aspects where in harmony, and increasing the influence of lees and oak, without also turning up the concentration of the fruit, left the drinker with a hollow experience.
But let’s move forward. Between the development described above, and now, we have seen a pendulum swing in Chardonnay style, with the over-oaked, buttery example replaced by the so-called ‘skinny’ version, created by picking earlier, preventing the occurrence of malo-lactic fermentations, and eschewing fermentation and ageing in barriques, particular new ones.
As part of this, we have also seen the development of another aspect to Chardonnay style – the manipulation of fermentations to create Hydrogen sulphide, the source of a whiff of struck match at low levels, but the smell of blocked drains at greater concentrations. When present in small quantities, it does add an attractive and complexing note to Chardonnay, and something needed if the winemaker chooses not to add an extra aromatic touch of toastiness from the use of new oak.
But the problem with sulphides, even when complementary, comes from the fact they don’t add any textural weight to the wine. And that’s what the judges in this year’s Chardonnay Masters missed the most. Yes there were examples with plenty of character, but at the more pricy end, we expected wines with more depth, more richness. And it is this indulgent aspect to great Chardonnay that makes it the most celebrated source of fine white wine in the world.
As one judge, Keith Isaac MW commented after the tasting, which saw us sample wines from around the world, “I like Chardonnay! And still do, for the most part, but not too lean and stripped back, or I can buy Muscadet instead.”
Such a statement highlights the main issue for skinny Chardonnay, and that is simply that if you want a delicate style of white, there are other grapes you will turn to. People generally choose Chardonnay when they want something refreshing but also full-bodied.
Of course, there is a spectrum of styles, perhaps best illustrated by the success of Chablis, a benchmark for ‘unoaked’ Chardonnay, but in this case, I think you will find that people are choosing Chablis, and the specific wine style this region epitomises, more than they are choosing Chardonnay – a grape that represents a more textured style of white.
Currently, however, a further judge, Jonathan Pedley MW, observed after this year’s competition that “The ‘austere, lean, struck match’ school of Chardonnay has definitively (for the time being) triumphed over the ‘ripe, tropical, oaky’ school.” As a result, he commented, “If ever you needed evidence that the world’s wine industry has become a global, fashion led village then this is it.”
While, looking deeper into what he termed “the cult of the struck match”, he recounted some advantages and disadvantages to the style.
What’s good, he said, is the fact that because so many winemakers are vinifying Chardonnay this way “they are getting better at it”, and consequently, “this year’s line up had fewer excessively reduced wines and only the odd one where the acidity was impossibly raw.”
On the other hand, he recorded some “bad news”, which he said related to the fact that “the consumer is being expected to pay big money (£30++) for premium Chardonnays that are often one dimensional, hard and angular.”
Continuing, he said, “The very nature of the struck match style is that it avoids/suppresses the other elements of the traditional Chardonnay wines: ripe fruit, oak and malolactic aromas.”
And, he concluded, “Deep down I am not convinced that the resulting lack of complexity in many of these new wave Chardonnays represents value for money.”
But, such a general report on the state of Chardonnay today shouldn’t conceal the fact that there are plenty of stunning, balanced, and delicious examples being made right now, and identified in our unique tasting approach – which sees us taste wines from all parts of the world without any sense of where they hail from.
And, this year’s competition saw the highest marks go to Chardonnays from a range of sources, as long as they “showed the wonderful layers of complexity of which Chardonnay is capable,” according to Pedley.
The results over the following pages show the medal-winners, and you can see those wines that achieved very high scores by the colour of their accolade, with, it should be stressed, Golds awarded to Chardonnays gaining an average score of 93 points and above from the judges. As for the ultimate accolade, that of Master, this only goes to something considered outstanding in its category, and generally getting 96 points or above from more than a couple of the judges.
As a final point, it is worth commenting on the origin of the great wines, particularly because certain regions shone. One of these was certainly Adelaide Hills in Australia – the source of more great Chardonnays in this year’s tasting than any other single place, but, considering the same nation, Hunter Valley also showed well.
Another notable stand-out area was Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand, but also Marlborough. Parts of California as one might expect delivered great results, while South Africa also proved adept at crafting lovely Chardonnay. A final surprise was a wonderful and reasonably priced sample from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley – which in fact turned out to the best Chardonnay of its category.
The judges (left to right): Matthieu Longuère MS; Patricia Stefanowicz MW; Patrick Schmitt MW, Ana Sapungiu MW; Jonathan Pedley MW; Annette Scarfe MW; Keith Isaac MW
Sparkling £30-£50
Company | Product Name | Region | Country | Vintage | Medal |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Centre Vinivole Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte | Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2010 | Champagne | France | 2010 | Gold |
Centre Vinivole Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte | Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs NV | Champagne | France | NV | Silver |
Centre Vinivole Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte | Collection Vintage Blanc de Blancs 2012 | Champagne | France | 2012 | Silver |
Fox & Fox | Essence Pure Chardonnay Brut 2014 | East Sussex | UK | 2014 | Silver |
Unoaked Under £10
Company | Product Name | Region | Country | Vintage | Medal |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Benoît Valérie Calvet | Pays d’Oc Chardonnay | Bordeaux | France | 2017 | Bronze |
Les Domaines Paul Mas | Domaine Martinolles Chardonnay | Languedoc | France | 2017 | Bronze |
Frederic Robinson’s own label | Jackman’s Landing Chardonnay | South East Australia | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
Leo Hillinger | Chardonnay | Burgenland | Austria | 2017 | Bronze |
Unoaked £10-£15
Company | Product Name | Region | Country | Vintage | Medal |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Giusti Wine | Chardonnay “Del Carni” IGT delle Venezie | Veneto | Italy | 2017 | Silver |
Journey’s End Vineyard | Journey’s End Chardonnay | Cape Town | South Africa | 2017 | Bronze |
Unoaked £15-£20
Company | Product Name | Region | Country | Vintage | Medal |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mas la Chevalière | Peyroli | Languedoc | France | 2016 | Silver |
De Wetshof Estate | De Wetshof Estate Bon Vallon Chardonnay | Western Cape | South Africa | 2017 | Silver |
Trinchero Family Estates | Joel Gott Chardonnay | California | USA | 2016 | Bronze |
Giesen Wine Estate | Ara Single Estate Chardonnay | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2016 | Bronze |
Unoaked £20-£30
Company | Product Name | Region | Country | Vintage | Medal |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Journey’s End Vineyard | Destination Chardonnay | Cape Town | South Africa | 2016 | Gold |
Bellavista | Convento della SS Annunciata | Franciacorta | Italy | 2013 | Gold |
De Wetshof Estate | De Wetshof Estate Limestone Hill | Western Cape | South Africa | 2018 | Silver |
Zonte’s Footstep | Dusk til Dawn | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
Unoaked £30-£50
Company | Product Name | Region | Country | Vintage | Medal |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Silenus Winery | Chardonnay | Napa Valley | California | 2017 | Silver |
Oaked Under £10
Company | Product Name | Region | Country | Vintage | Medal |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Indevin | Paikea Chardonnay | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2017 | Silver |
Vandenberg Wines | Vandenberg Chardonnay | Limestone Coast | Australia | 2018 | Silver |
te Pa Family Vineyards | Pa Road Chardonnay | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2017 | Bronze |
Les Domaines Paul Mas | Astelia Chardonnay | Languedoc | France | 2017 | Bronze |
Siegel Family Wines | Reserva Handpickd Chardonnay | Colchagua Valley | Chile | 2018 | Bronze |
Viña Luis Felipe Edwards | Classic Chardonnay | Colchagua Valley | Chile | 2018 | Bronze |
Trivento Bodegas y Viñedos | Trivento Reserve Chardonnay | Mendoza | Argentina | 2017 | Bronze |
Les Domaines Paul Mas | Paul Mas Chardonnay | Languedoc | France | 2017 | Bronze |
Viña Luis Felipe Edwards | Reserva Chardonnay | Colchagua Valley | Chile | 2018 | Bronze |
Oaked £10-£15
Company | Product Name | Region | Country | Vintage | Medal |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Château Ksara | Chardonnay Cuvée Du Pape | Bekaa Valley | Lebanon | 2016 | Gold |
De Bortoli Wines | DB Winemaker Slection Chardonnay | Riverina | Australia | 2017 | Silver |
Viña Maycas Del Limarí | Reserva Especial | Limarí | Chile | 2017 | Silver |
Pernod Ricard Winemakers | Jacob’s Creek Barossa Signature | Barossa | Australia | 2017 | Silver |
Viña Luis Felipe Edwards | Marea Valle de Leyda Chardonnay | Santiago | Chile | 2017 | Silver |
Yealands Wine Group | Crossroads Milestone Series Hawke’s Bay | Hawke’s Bay | New Zealand | 2016 | Silver |
Babich Wines | Babich Family Estates Organic Chardonnay | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2017 | Silver |
Famiglia Bianchi | Famiglia Bianchi Chardonnay | Mendoza | Argentina | 2017 | Silver |
Wakefield/Taylors Wines | Jaraman Chardonnay | Clare Valley | Australia | 2017 | Silver |
De Bortoli Wines | Deen Vat 7 Chardonnay | South Eastern Australia | Australia | 2017 | Silver |
te Pa Family Vineyards | te Pa Chardonnay | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2017 | Silver |
Trinchero Family Estates | Three Thieves Chardonnay | California | USA | 2016 | Bronze |
Marisco Vineyards | Leefield Station Chardonnay | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2017 | Bronze |
Viña Concha y Toro | Gran Reserva Serie Riberas Chardonnay | Colchagua Valley | Chile | 2017 | Bronze |
Salentein | Salentein Barrel Selection | Mendoza | Argentina | 2017 | Bronze |
Trinchero Family Estates | Complicated Chardonnay | Conoma Coast – California | USA | 2016 | Bronze |
Pernod Ricard Winemakers | Jacob’s Creek Reserve Adelaide Hills | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
Frederic Robinson | West Cape Howe Old School Chardonnay | Frankland, Mount Barker (Margaret River) | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
Bird in Hand | Two in the Bush Chardonnay | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2016 | Bronze |
Viña Concha y Toro | Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay | Limarí Valley | Chile | 2017 | Bronze |
Spy Valley Wines | Handpicked Single Estate Chardonnay | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2016 | Bronze |
De Grendel Wines | Op Die Berg Chardonnay | Western Cape | South Africa | 2017 | Bronze |
Kahurangi Estate | Mt Arthur Reserve Chardonnay | Nelson | New Zealand | 2017 | Bronze |
Oaked £15-£20
Company | Product Name | Region | Country | Vintage | Medal |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wakefield/Taylors Wines | St Andrews Chardonnay | Clare Valley | Australia | 2017 | Gold |
Yealands Wine Group | Crossroads Winemakers Collection Hawke’s Bay | Hawke’s Bay | New Zealand | 2015 | Gold |
Jackson Family Wines | Kendall-Jackson Vintners Reserve | California | USA | 2016 | Silver |
Uva Mira Vineyards | The Mira Chardonnay | Stellenbosch | South Africa | 2017 | Silver |
Marisco Vineyard | The King’s Legacy | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2016 | Silver |
Babich Wines | Irongate Chardonnay | Hawke’s Bay | New Zealand | 2017 | Silver |
Bird in Hand | Chardonnay | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2017 | Sivler |
De Bortoli Wines | Estate Vineyard Chardonnay | Yarra Valley | Australia | 2016 | Bronze |
De Bortoli Wines | Single Vineyard Section A5 Chardonnay | Yarra Valley | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
Trinchero Family Estates | Charles & Charles Chardonnay | Columbia Valley – Washington | USA | 2016 | Bronze |
Viñedos Terranoble | Gran Reserva Chardonnay | Casablanca | Chile | 2017 | Bronze |
Spy Valley Wines | Chardonnay | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2015 | Bronze |
Australian Vintage | McGuigan The Founders Chardonnay | Hunter Valley | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
De Bortoli Wines | Villages Chardonnay | Yarra Valley | Australia | 2016 | Bronze |
La Motte Wine Estate | La Motte Chardonnay | Franschhoek | South Africa | 2017 | Bronze |
De Wetshof Estate | Lesca Chardonnay | Western Cape | South Africa | 2017 | Bronze |
Alpha Estate | Ecosystem Single Block “Tramonto” | Florina | Greece | 2017 | Bronze |
Oaked £20-£30
Company | Product Name | Region | Country | Vintage | Medal |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Pernod Ricard Winemakers | St Hugo Eden Valley Chardonnay | Eden Valley | Australia | 2017 | Gold |
Matahiwi Estate | Holly by Matahiwi Estate South Series | Wairarapa | New Zealand | 2017 | Gold |
te Pa Family Vineyards | te Pa Reserve Chardonnay | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2017 | Gold |
Tapanappa Wines | Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard 1.5M | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2017 | Silver |
Maycas del Limarí | Quebrada Seca | Limarí | Chile | 2016 | Silver |
Jackson Family Wines | Cambria Katherine’s Chardonnay | Santa Mapia Valley | USA | 2015 | Silver |
De Wetshof Estate | The Site Chardonnay | Western Cape | South Africa | 2015 | Silver |
Cavit SC | Maso Toresella Chardonnay Trentino DC | Trentino | Italy | 2016 | Silver |
Fleur du Cap | Essence du Cap Chardonnay | Stellenbosch | South Africa | 2017 | Silver |
Ktima Pavlidis | Emphasis Chardonnay | Macedonia | Greece | 2017 | Silver |
Tapanappa Wines | Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2017 | Silver |
Trinchero Family Estates | Napa Cellars Chardonnay | Napa Valley, California | USA | 2016 | Silver |
Australian Vintage | Nepenthe Altitude Chardonnay | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2017 | Silver |
Matahiwi Estate | Holly by Matahiwi Estate Chardonnay | Wairarapa | New Zealand | 2017 | Silver |
Trefethen Family Vineyards | Chardonnay | Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley | USA | 2016 | Bronze |
Marchesi Frescobaldi | Benefizio Riserva | Tuscany | Italy | 2016 | Bronze |
Savitas Wines | JB Chardonnay | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
Plaisir de Merle | Chardonnay | Simondium | South Africa | 2017 | Bronze |
Pike and Joyce Wines | Sirocco | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2016 | Bronze |
Lyme Bay Winery | Chardonnay | Devon | England | 2016 | Bronze |
Maison Champy | Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru “En Caradeux” White | Burgundy | France | 2015 | Bronze |
Tapanappa Wines | Piccadilly Valley | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
Giesen Wine Estate | Fuder Single Vineyard Clayvin Chardonnay | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2014 | Bronze |
Jackson Family Wines | La Crema Monterey Chardonnay | Monterey | USA | 2016 | Bronze |
Bouchard Finlayson | Missionvale Chardonnay | Hemel-en-Aarde Valley | South Africa | 2016 | Bronze |
Fleur du Cap | Unfiltered Chardonnay | Stellenbosch | South Africa | 2016 | Bronze |
Durbanville Hills | Chardonnay | Cape Town | South Africa | 2017 | Bronze |
Planeta | Chardonnay | Sicily | Italy | 2016 | Bronze |
Oaked £30-£50
Company | Product Name | Region | Country | Vintage | Medal |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bird in Hand | Nest Egg Chardonnay | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2016 | Master |
Australian Vintage | Tempus Two Pewter Chardonnay | Hunter Valley | Australia | 2014 | Gold |
Australian Vintage | Tempus Two Pewter Chardonnay | Hunter Valley | Australia | 2016 | Gold |
Australian Vintage | McGuigan Shortlist Chardonnay | Hunter Valley | Australia | 2017 | Gold |
Bird in Hand | Nest Egg Chardonnay | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2015 | Gold |
Sonoma-Curter Vineyards | Les Pierres | California | USA | 2015 | Gold |
Salentein | Primus Chardonnay | Mendoza | Argentina | 2015 | Gold |
Viña Ventisquero | Tara | Huasco Valley | Chile | 2015 | Silver |
Marisco Vineyard | Craft Series ‘The Pioneer’ | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2015 | Silver |
Australian Vintage | Tempus Two Copper Wilde Chardonnay | Hunter Valley | Australia | 2016 | Silver |
Chamlija Wines | Thracian | Eastern Thrace | Turkey | 2014 | Silver |
Bird in Hand | Nest Egg Chardonnay | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2017 | Silver |
Sidewood Estate | Mappinga Chardonnay | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2016 | Silver |
Marchesi Frescobaldi | Benefizio | Toscana | Italy | 2016 | Silver |
Elephant Hill Estate & Winery | Salomé Chardonnay | Hawke’s Bay | New Zealand | 2016 | Silver |
Uva Mira Vineyards | The Single Tree Chardonnay | Stellenbosch | South Africa | 2017 | Silver |
Cakebread Cellars | Chardonnay Napa Valley | Napa Valley | USA | 2016 | Silver |
Pike and Joyce Wines | The Kay Reserve | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2016 | Silver |
Australian Vintage | Nepenthe Pinnacle Chardonnay | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
Australian Vintage | Tempus Two Pewter Chardonnay | Hunter Valley | Australia | 2015 | Bronze |
Australian Vintage | Tempus Two Pewter Chardonnay | Hunter Valley | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
Australian Vintage | McGuigan Cellar Select Tumbarumba | Hunter Valley | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
Durbanville Hills | Collectors Reserve The Cableway | Cape Town | South Africa | 2017 | Bronze |
Mission Estate Winery | Jewelstone Chardonnay | Hawkes Bay | New Zealand | 2017 | Bronze |
Howard Park Wines | Marchand & Birch Porongurup and Mount Baker | Western Australia | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
Oaked £50+
Company | Product Name | Region | Country | Vintage | Medal |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Australian Vintage | Nepenthe Apex Chardonnay | Adelaide Hills | Australia | 2016 | Master |
Pahlmeyer Winery | Chardonnay | Napa Valley | USA | 2016 | Master |
Treasury Wine Estates | Penfolds Yattarna | South Australia | Australia | 2015 | Gold |
Treasury Wine Estates | Penfolds Reserve Bin 16A | South Australia | Australia | 2016 | Gold |
Levantine Hill Estate | Chardonnay | Yarra Valley | Australia | 2016 | Silver |
Uva Mira Vineyards | Uva Mira Chardonnay | Stellenbosch | South Africa | 2016 | Bronze |
Australian Vintage | McGuigan Personal Reserve Hunter Valley | Hunter Valley | Australia | 2017 | Bronze |
Levantine Hill Estate | Levantine Hill Katherine’s Paddock | Yarra Valley | Australia | 2016 | Bronze |
Famglia Bianchi | MarÃa Carmen de Bianchi | Mendoza | Argentina | 2015 | Bronze |
About the competition
The Chardonnay Masters is a competition created and run by the drinks business, and is an extension of its successful Masters series for grape varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, as well as regions such as Prosecco and Champagne.
The competition is exclusively for Chardonnay, and the entries were judged using Schott Zwiesel Cru Classic glasses supplied by Wine Sorted.
The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Chardonnay Master. This report features only the medal-winners in the competition.
For further information please contact any of the team at the drinks business on +44(0)207 803 2420 or email Sophie Raichura at sophie@thedrinksbusiness.com