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New on Wine List Confidential: 10 Greek Street
Fruit, purity and value drive the short, carefully authored core list at 10 Greek Street, while those in the know can ask to choose from its ‘little black book’, which contains treasures sourced from private cellars, auctions and fine wine lists.
Co-owner, Luke Wilson, a graduate in Biological Sciences, has been inextricably linked with restaurants for the past 12 years, with previous roles at The Zetter and The Ambassador. Prior to opening the Spartan of décor, but cosy of welcome, or functional but fun, 10 Greek Street, he worked for importer, Liberty Wines, looking after accounts throughout the City.
“Our main list is concise and constantly evolving with a range of grapes, styles and regions,’ he says, modestly. ‘We try to make it as accessible as possible, with bottle prices ranging from £20 to £60.” Wines must be delicious to earn a place on the list, he adds, with choices apparently driven by purity of fruit and a sense of freshness. By the glass, there are rich pickings, including a flute of Nyetimber for well below £10.
Guests should also ask to see the “little black book” in this dining room, as well as at sister site, the Refectory at Whitechapel Gallery. Neatly scribed in pencil along with the remaining tally of bottles, this lists such treasures as the beautifully illustrated Liquid Farm Golden Slope Chardonnay, pre 2000 Haut-Brion, vibrant vintages of Tignanello and single vineyard Ports. “These wines are sourced from private cellars, auctions, and fine wine lists,” says Wilson.
Wilson recalls memorable winemaker dinners at 10 Greek Street, which has a characterful private room, including Barolo producer, GD Vajra (Piedmont) and Jeffrey Grosset from Clare Valley, Australia. ‘I remember listening with great interest to Jeffrey Grosset as he talked about screwcaps. As one of the original proponents of the closure, he made what might be considered a somewhat mundane subject quite fascinating!’
Built to be wine friendly, dishes by co-owner and head chef, Cameron Emirali (previously of The Wapping Project), chalked on the blackboard, may include starter of whole quail with n’duja and lentils, followed by Barnsley chop, celeriac, sprouting broccoli and anchovy, or chateaubriand with duck fat potatoes, cavolo nero and horseradish, culminating in pudding of pear sorbet and Strega (indeed there are plentiful postprandial drinks to choose from).
Also look out for the Northamptonshire made, unfiltered and unpasteurised amber kellerbier lager, brewed by Wilson and Emirali – Braybrooke Beer Co.
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Restaurants are graded on a 100-point scale based on five criteria: size, value, service, range and originality. For a full guide to London’s best wine lists visit winelistconfidential.com