Unfiltered: Daniel Beedle, Indian Accent

Daniel Beedle is the group beverage director at Indian Accent, owned by Old world Hospitality, which was first established in New Delhi before transplanting its high-end contemporary Indian concept to New York and late last year, London’s Mayfair. Established in 2009 by Rohit Khattar in March 2017, the group’s New Delhi restaurant was named 78th best restaurant in the world at the World’s 50 Best Restaurant awards in 2017 – the only restaurant in India to be featured. Last year, the group brought its high-end Indian offer to London, with chef Manish Mehrotra bringing his contemporary twist to classic Indian cuisine to Mayfair. Beedle oversees the wine offer across the group’s three restaurants, having held similar positions at some of New York’s top restaurants, including Juni, Betony, Boulud Sud, and The Nomad. Caught between three continents, we pinned down Beedle for an insight into his approach to pairing wine (“it’s like music”), how a magnum of 1984 Diamond Creek Gravely Meadows Cabernet Sauvignon changed his perspective on California, and why space wine is the next frontier.

Daniel Beedle is group beverage director for Indian Accent, overseeing lists in New Delhi, London and New York

What’s your go-to drink at the end of a long day?

Water. After a long day of tasting rich foods, sweet syrups, all the wine, beer and cocktails, it’s essential that I stay hydrated and healthy. It’s an industry that often leads itself to having a drink every single night, if not two, and then sometimes four. You realise it won’t play out well in the long run. Besides that, I don’t have a go to. I change it up. There are so many wine reps that always have something that they are trying to get you to taste – it’s an endless supply.

What’s your most embarrassing front-of-house moment?

I was a young somm working New Year’s Eve at the NoMad, when it was the hottest wine spot in NYC (still one of the best). I was tasked with getting the Champagne glasses from storage on the rooftop. I thought it would be clever to put all the Champagne glasses on one trolley and wheel them down in one go. I made my way smoothly through the elevators and the main lobby, and then right as I was heading across the main dining room floor I hit a snag. All but a few glasses survived. The rest toppled over like a domino horror film and broken glass cascaded across the floor like a flash flood.

It was so loud that every conversation stopped, all heads whipped around to watch, food still in mouth no longer being chewed. I, in a Jerry Lewis fashion, was clutching the cart with my entire body trying to keep the remaining ones from breaking, totally unable to move. My brain went to panic mode and all I could come up with was to put on a big smile and wait for a colleague to save me. Long wait, lots of eye contact, big smile. I remember finding small bit of glass in the dining room for a week afterwards. I carry glasses on trays now.

If you could give your younger self advice when starting out as a sommelier, what would it be?

Never burn bridges, always build them. In the world of fine dining reputation is more valuable than gold. You never know who’s going to have that drive to rise to the top, so teach everyone, bring everyone up. Dishwashers can turn into owners. You want to be a part of their success stories. If you plan on being good and sticking with this career path, you need to know that you will see everyone again and again as time goes by. You could work for them or sometimes you need them to work for you. Have patience and be kind. There is a reason why Gordon Ramsey’s management methods don’t work for FOH staffs.

Has a wine every given you an epiphany? Which one?

1984 Diamond Creek Gravely Meadows Cabernet Sauvignon from Magnum. Who knew that California Cabernet could age so well? Up until that point I had only been exposed to these very over extracted giants (I won’t name them, but we all know), that while great, never really went anywhere with age. This was my first time finding Napa’s real potential. It took me down the path to the producers that didn’t spend their money in advertising, but creating age worthy new world wines that can rival the best the old world has to offer. Some producers take a lot of effort making their wines drinkable right away so they can get lots of points an make instant sales. Others understand that certain wines can’t be rushed. Willamette Valley has the same potential, but you rarely see it.

Which customer habit annoys you the most?

Nothing gets to me. I’ve spent my career building up my tolerance. You should be gracious that you have a guest at all. “Annoying habits” are simple bits of information that allow you to understand the guest better. It’s the guests that don’t give you anything that are the hardest.

Who is your inspiration in the gastronomic world?

Shaun Hergatt. His life is structured around what he delivers on his plates. I don’t think he thinks of “work” as work. It’s simply an extension of what he wants to do and his way of looking at his art. You rarely see that sort of balance in the restaurant world.

What’s your ultimate food and wine pairing?

I don’t really think like that. Wine is like music, there is no “Ultimate Song and Dance Move”. Similar to music, are flavor combinations that act like music chords, and that’s where you find harmony. An example would be baked then sautéed rabbit kidneys cooked in butter with garlic, rosemary, black pepper, sea salt and lardo. Paired with an aged Saumur-Champigny, let’s say Clos Rougeard 1996, and you get the equivalence of Bill Withers “Lovely Day”. It might sound odd, but I think a lot of people can relate.

Where would your fantasy vineyard be?

Space – on one of those rotating space colonies. Imagine if the winemakers could customise their terrior. I don’t think we’re ready for that just yet as a wine community. The wine would be out of this world though (think about it). Although there are some winemakers we could send up there in advance.

If you weren’t a sommelier, what would you be doing?

I would be researching epigenetics. I think that this is simply one of the most fascinating fields. It’s basically like looking at a genome attached to a bunch of switches that turn genes on and off. I kind of just want my life to be built around the question of “what’s this one do? Flip”. Cancer on, cancer off. That sort of thing.

Which wine (grape/style) do you find it impossible to get along with?

I’m a snob – bulk wine. I just hate it. Too high of a yield, no acid, poor quality fruit, alcohol is out of whack. My solution is two fold – either turn it into a kir or throw in some spices and mull it. Otherwise I’ll have a beer.

Who is the most memorable customer you’ve ever served?

Doug Frost. Simply one of the most effective wine educators I’ve had the pleasure to meet. Was a blast serving him, really funny.

What else would you like to achieve in your life?

I’d like to own some land, grow some vegetables, take up pottery. Open up my own restaurant in a smallish town. Meet the right investor.

What would be your desert Island wine?

JCA & C Terrantez 1715. It’s believed to be the oldest Madeira on earth and is over 300 years old. If I’m stuck on a desert island I might as well make it worth it.

What is your life motto?

The sum of all your actions is equal to your character.