The dish: Ben Tish, The Stafford

After 11 years with London’s Salt Yard Group, chef Ben Tish spread his wings to take up the post of culinary director at The Stafford hotel in St James’s this month, tasked with overseeing its food offering across The Game Bird restaurant, the American Bar, wine cellars and in-room dining. The role will also see Tish launch new restaurant projects “in the near future that will focus on Ben’s signature style and love of European cuisine”, a release announcing his appointment teased. Prior to The Stafford, Tish held the role of chef director of the Salt Yard Group, during which time he launched the Soho sites of Dehesa, Ember Yard and Opera Tavern. Here he gives us the dish on his 20-year career in the restaurant trade.

Ben Tish, culinary director at The Stafford

What/who influenced your decision to become a chef?

I originally became a chef as it was an easy option when I wasn’t sure what else to do! I wanted to move to London as soon as possible, and becoming a chef gave me that opportunity. My first shifts in the kitchen certainly put me on the right track, and also made me fall in love with food.

Can you remember your first shift in a kitchen?

Yes – a baptism of fire. I worked with Jason Atherton briefly in our home town when he was fresh out of La Tante Claire – I didn’t know what had hit me but it was infectious.

What is your earliest wine memory?

My parents were into wine, they used to take me to the Beaujolais Nouveau night at the local hotel.

What has been your most memorable meal?

For an incredible all round experience, it would have to be Asador Etxebarri near San Sebastian. The food is simple but incredibly well sourced then cooked over fire. The location adds another brilliant dimension, as the restaurant backs onto a beautiful mountain with sheep and cows roaming nearby.

How important is wine to a meal, from a chef’s point of view?

It’s very important. An intelligent, well thought match can make great food outstanding.

What would be your ultimate food and wine pairing?

I think a bowl of pasta with a really rich ragout, made the proper way with chicken livers, pork shoulder, veal, and plenty of wine, served on a cold winters lunch with a glass or two of Sassicaia 2011.

Who is your inspiration in the winemaking and gastronomic world and why?

Chefs that have really inspired me are Stephen Terry and Jason Atherton, both of whom I have had the pleasure of working with. I also have a great respect for Sam and Sam Clarke from Moro. I love their food style, and they have run a consistently busy restaurant for nearly 20 years, sticking to their guns and making a very difficult location work. My inspiration in winemaking changes from year to year, but I love good natural wines, and the Austrian producer Gut Oggau is producing some consistently great and really interesting wines at the moment.

Biggest kitchen disaster?

I worked in an old hotel on the west coast of Scotland. The sprinkler system was ancient and the sprinkler heads were sealed with wax. One very hot, very busy summer service the sprinklers burst in the kitchen and poured out black, rancid 50 year old water all over the kitchen and the food prep. It wouldn’t stop for two hours. A challenging day.

If you could give your younger self advice starting out as a chef, what would it be?

Less of the burning the candle at both ends – it slows down the learning process.

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be doing?

Possibly something to do with journalism.

Besides cooking, which talent would you most like to have?

I’d like to step up my gardening game.

What would be your best piece of culinary advice for an aspiring home cook?

Don’t be shy with the salt. It does make all the difference.

If you could only eat at one restaurant for the rest of your life, where would you choose?

A tough one but, finances allowing, probably The River Café.

What else would you like to achieve in life?

I would like to open a cookery school.

And finally, what is your life motto?

There’s always a solution to the problem.