New on Wine List Confidential: Parsons

With co-owner, Ian Campbell, Gus Pollard has created a list illuminated by “mineral, terroir-driven” white wines from coastal regions “which are in their most exciting place alongside fish and seafood”.

Parsons was born from a love of classic English fish restaurants according to Gus Pollard, GM and wine buyer for this and sister bistro, The 10 Cases (at which only 10 cases of the wines are bought to encourage a sense of freshness in selection). ‘Having noticed a frustrating lack of wine focus in such restaurants, we wanted to create something new and exciting where wine plays a central role in the experience,’ he adds.

With co-owner, Ian Campbell, Pollard has created a list illuminated by white wines. ‘We attempted to focus on coastal regions and mineral, terroir-driven whites which are in their most exciting place alongside fish and seafood’. Of 100 bins, only 10% are red, with a Trousseau from Jura and Galician Mencia, both with adhering to what Pollard describes as ‘the vibrancy and freshness to accompany the few richer menu items and meat options.’ Whites, meanwhile, are likely to include rested Muscadet (of course!), Clare Valley Sémillon (Mount Horrocks), and Rieslings from Central Otago (Prophets Rock) and the Mosel in late harvest form (J.J. Prum).

Pollard and his team pour eight whites by the glass, such as Vouvray, Vinho Verde, dry Santorini Assyrtiko and Sancerre, and two reds, including a Gamay, supplemented by a couple of sparkling wines including Cavas and quality sherries to begin, and Banyuls to finish.

In terms of fine formerly flapping fodder, guests can snack on brown crab pissaladière or potted shrimp croquettes, then paint the table with starters of sea trout tartare with Bloody Mary jelly, octopus with potatoes cooked in pork fat with paprika and parsley oil, or a fine steak tartare with miso egg yolk, apple and elderflower. For main courses and shellfish, consult the ‘tiles and mirrors’ for the day’s haul, which could include brill, John Dory, fish pie, and ‘beautiful langoustines’ as well as oysters.

‘We don’t have a Sommelier as such,’ says Pollard, ‘however all staff are wine savvy to various degrees.’

Wine List Confidential, brought to you by the drinks business, is the first platform to rank London’s restaurants on the strength of their wine list alone, providing a comprehensive guide to the best restaurants in the capital for wine lovers.

Restaurants are graded on a 100-point scale based on five criteria: size, value, service, range and originality. For a full guide to London’s best wine lists visit winelistconfidential.com

the drinks business published the inaugural 2017 Wine List Confidential: One to Sixty-One guide last year. We are currently working on a new 2018 edition and are busy re-reviewing top-scoring restaurants and adding new entries to the database. Check back later in the year for final scoring and position of restaurants.