db eats: Calcutta Street Brixton

Following in the footsteps of its Fitzrovia original, Calcutta Street opened its second site last month, promising to bring a taste of Bengali home dining to Brixton.

The concept: Calcutta Street in Brixton is chef Shrimoyee Chakraborty’s second outpost, following the success of the Fitzrovia original which opened last year. Retaining its unique Bengali home dining concept, its Brixton brother opened in June but promised a “markedly different vibe” to its sibling. Located on Coldharbour Lane, this south of the river reincarnation is the party-loving cousin of the Fitzrovia original, holding a late licence until 1am. While the Fitzrovia brand is about cosy home comforts, inspired by Chakraborty’s family home in Kolkata’s Gariahat Road, Calcutta Street Brixton, is inspired by its lively setting of Brixton and its cacophony of cultures – casual, cool and vibrant with a deliberately ‘rough around the edges’, vibe.

The décor: Exposed brick, brightly coloured wood panelling and tropical plants make Calcutta Street Brixton a welcoming, vibrant space, with an open kitchen and front set bar for people watching adding to its informal, stripped back setting. Walls feature hand- painted murals, posters of iconic works by Bengali film maker Satyajit Ray. Antique wall lights, ostrich and peacock feathers and palm trees further add to the exotic atmosphere, with the compact restaurant leading to an outdoor terrace.

The food: Bereft of a balti, bhuna or korma, classic Bengali home-cooking and street food is the order of the day at Calcutta Street. Its menu is deliberately small, almost too small, but with just enough creativity to peak one’s interest. Replacing the traditional ‘starters’ are small plates and street food snacks, which include Beguni – sliced aubergine crisp-fried in chickpea flour and served with a fiery mustard chutney (£4.50), and spicy Phuchka (£4.50) – crisp semolina balls filled with spiced potato and dipped in a tangy tamarind and mint water. A wholesome bowl of devilishly spicy Aam Daal (£5.90) – “tangy red lentils with green mango” – arrived piping hot. So far so good. A Chicken Thengri (£7), two chicken drumsticks with a small salad garnish, arrived wrapped in tin foil (to save burning your fingers), with a glaze of coriander and mint chutney, but failed to wow.

Calcutta Street’s seven main dishes include the Calcutta Lamb Byriani (£12) and the “best crab kari” ever (£22), which I was told is a whole crab steamed with a selection of spices. I ordered the Prawn Malai Kari, a hefty £16, without rice or bread, with some trepidation, willing it to measure up. Thankfully it did, and was by far the highlight of the night. Four juicy whole prawns slathered in a rich, delicately spiced sweet coconut sauce with a pleasing hint of mint. A Bengali-style Kosha Mangsho lamb curry followed, which was generous in meat but lacked depth of flavour, which at £14.50 is difficult to overlook.

The necessary sides of rice and bread were without incident, a bowl of steaming Ghee Bhat (£3), made with clarified butter, the perfect accompaniment. The Luchi (£2.50) – deep fried puffed flat bread – was off the menu on the night we visited, so we happily made do with a perfectly pleasing Paratha (£2.50) and a Chapati (£2), no poppadoms or mango chutney in sight, despite the menu promising ‘chutneys on us’.

Dessert was a long-awaited Chocolate and Vermicelli Payesh (£6) – a pot of melted chocolate with some pistachios and vermicelli mixed through – which while pleasant, reminding me childhood puddings, was primitive in its presentation and just a little too pappy in texture for my liking.

Signature dishes: The Prawn Malai Kari was hands down the best dish of the night. I cherished every mouthful. However the Calcutta Lamb Biriyani (£12) is Calcutta’s signature dish, described as a “Bengali heartthrob”, served with potato and boiled egg.

The drinks: Simple and concise, Calcutta’s wine list is exactly what you would expect from a contemporary Indian restaurant – some smart new world reds, a smattering of classic European aromatic whites and a few robust French and Italian reds for good measure. De Martino’s Syrah from Chile is a bargain at £25 a bottle, while white wine lovers should be appeased by the presence of a Le Petit Clos NZ Sauvignon (£29.50) and a Sicilian Cattaratto (£22). The most expensive wine on the list is a bottle of Barolo Bricco Boschis from Tenuta Cavallotto at £75. A range of classic Bengali cocktails are also on offer, including the Bengali Rose, comprising East London Liquor vodka, bitters, rose, ginger and Prosecco; and the Orko’s Tonic, a blend of East London Liquor gin, kaffir lime, cucumber and tonic. It’s bespoke Shorbot cocktails, born on the streets of Calcutta, are long soft drinks that can be spiked with a spirit of your choosing.

Don’t leave without: Your coat.

Last word: Calcutta Street is a lively, authentic concept with an enthusiastic team behind it. I applaud Chakraborty’s fresh, fearless approach to Indian home cooking, weaving her heritage into a restaurant that champions street food alongside home-cooked favourites at bold prices. The Fitzrovia branch has been a successful launch pad for the ambitious chef. I only hope that Brixton will welcome its brand of Bengali cooking into their hearts. Calcutta Street has plenty of room to grow.

Calcutta Street, 395 Coldharbour Ln, Brixton, London SW9 8LQ; Tel: +44 (0)20 7326 4200; www.calcuttastreet.com.