Uncorked: Benoit Bigot

Benoit Bigot is the head sommelier at Sühring, a fine dining German restaurant that was named No.13 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list 2017. An avid advocate of natural and organic wines, the edgy sommelier has created an intriguing wine menu, promoting interesting and quirky wines. Having worked in years in London honing his skills, Bigot arrived in Bangkok a few years ago and was on the opening team for L’Atelier de Robuchon before moving to Sühring.

What vintage are you?

The next one I guess… The excitement that novelty brings!

Which bottle sparked your love of wine?

I still remember clearly that amazing wine we used to serve by the glass in 2005 at China Tang at The Dorchester. It was a 2002 ‘Engelgarten’ (Garden of Angel) from Marcel Deiss, which is for me the best producer of white wines in Alsace (Red would be Albert Mann for their incredible Pinots).

Jean-Michel Deiss is a bit of a UFO in Alsace as the tradition is to bottle single varietals. But he makes each of his wines from field blends of several grapes, planted in the same vineyard and harvested and vinified together. He feels that a single varietal can only capture a single aspect of the terroir, and the varietal’s own character dominates; but when different grapes are blended together a more complete realisation of the terroir emerges. After a number of years working organically, Jean-Michel went biodynamic in 1998. ‘Engelgarten’ is a vineyard planted with Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Beurot (similar to Pinot Gris), Muscat, and Pinot Noir. The nose is intense with a mix of mineral, grapefruit, pear, and orange peel aromas. The fruits explode on the palate into pineapple and mandarin. It’s off-dry and full-bodied, with a smooth finish and enough acidity to give freshness and length. The best wine I’ve ever served by the glass …

What would you be as a wine?

A natural wine for sure. Because with me, what you see is what you get. No additives, no politics…Could be a really cool wine like El Niño from Le Casot des Mailloiles. Although based in the village of Banyuls, this Domaine doesn’t produce any fortified wine which is the norm there. Instead they make a range of white and red (and a funky rosé) grown organically and vinified naturally. El Niño is a red wine made from roughly 2/3 Grenache Gris co-fermented with 1/3 of Carignan.

Where are you happiest?

Sharing a home-made meal with family or friends, laughing, exchanging ideas and of course drinking pleasurable wines, with some AC/DC in the background.

Best advice you ever got?

Do what makes you happy… So simple and so true at the same time. Thanks mom!

What’s your greatest vice?

My mom always said “Benoît, you have expensive taste”. I spend too much money on food and wine. But, well, what can you do?

Your cellar’s underwater, which bottle would you dive in and save?

2003 Riesling Fronholz, Domaine Ostertag; from André Ostertag private collection. A pretty and floral wine packed with minerality. 

What’s on your wine bucket list?

No bucket list really, but I would really love to drink a 2002 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos from Dauvissat again. Forget about aged white from the Côte de Beaune, aged Chablis is the bee’s knees of the Chardonnay world! The best white wine I’ve ever drunk!

Who would you invite to your dream dinner party?

My grandma for sure. She sparked my love of food with her authentic French cooking, which is why I’m in the restaurant industry.

Personal satisfaction (Parker point-out of 100)

I don’t follow Parker and his ratings but I have huge respect for Jancis Robinson MW. So I’ll go out of 20 like her, with a 17/20. Life’s great but has much more to offer. I’m excited to see what the future holds for the next 40 years or so!

Which wine would you like to be served at your funeral?

I’d be cheeky and go with the only great wine I know with my name on it. Champagne Premier Cru Le Mont Benoit, Extra Brut from Emmanuel Brochet.