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Antonini: Too many people are making Justin Bieber wines
Too many producers are so concerned about what the market wants that they are making commercially focused “Justin Bieber” wines according to Italian winemaker and consultant Alberto Antonini.
Alberto Antonini thinks too many producers are making ‘Justin Bieber’ wines
Speaking exclusively to the drinks business during Vinexpo in Bordeaux this week, Antonini lamented the state of play in the current world wine market, and the fact that so many winemakers have become too self-conscious.
“Winemakers need to gain more confidence and feel more comfortable in doing their own thing and making authentic wines that are true to themselves otherwise you end up with the wine equivalent of Britney Spears and Justin Bieber – commercially focused wines made to suit the market.
“The market is one of the biggest problems in the wine world today as it dictates everything and too many people are making wines to suit the market’s tastes.
Antonioni believes Armenia has great potential as a winemaking country
“I don’t like to make wine for the market – I like to go out and make wine that is true to a place and then find a market for it,” he said.
Antonini was also scathing about the fact that winemakers unsure of their style usually end up making Bordeaux imitations, which is boring and ineffective.
“It’s a mistake to copy but so many winemakers around the world lack confidence and are insecure so end up copying Bordeaux – it has happened a lot over the last 30 years, the Bordeaux-isation of wine has spread all over the world, which is a big mistake.
“I hope to see the wine world become more decisive and more exciting in the future as I think at the moment we’re only seeing around 30% of what Mother Nature is capable of, but some of the most exciting places to grow grapes in the world have no wine culture at all so it’s not easy.
“I’m working on a project in Armenia at the moment, which has 280 native grapes, so it’s an amazing place to make wine, as is Georgia, which is a dream land for a winemaker with its 500 native grapes,” Antonini told db.
“I don’t like my personal touch being recognised in my wines – if that’s the case then it means that I’ve done something wrong as it should be all about the place,” he added.
Alberto, you are so right. Nowadays the majority of wines have no sense of place (origin)- they seem to come from one big tank!
Indeed, I would agree on the Armenia comment. Anyone who isn’t getting in there and taking advantage of that unique high-altitude, poor soil is going to miss out!
While I wholeheartedly agree with the sentiment Antonini makes, this is nothing new. The wine industry – for that matter, the entirety of the beverage business – has ALWAYS had a predilection for producing products that fit a trendy profile…be it taste or packaging. Taken as a whole, our business has always exhibited this ‘lemming mentality’, and always will. Thankfully there are enough people like Mr. Antonini who are willing to march to a different tune.
Quite right. Fancy making wine that the market wants!!