Chile ‘missing trick’ with its volcanic wines

Chile is missing a trick to make more of its volcanic terroir, one Chilean producer has argued.

Speaking to db at the London Wine Fair, Ben Gordon, managing director of Bodegas Volcanes de Chile, argues that the country is missing a big opportunity to tap into the potential for more premium and higher priced volcanic wines, arguing that volcanoes are a concept that consumers readily understand.

The potential of Chilean volcanic wine is big, he argues. “The biggest potential lies in its accessibility to everyday consumers. If you talk terroir to 95% of consumers, it is not seen as a sexy idea, but people understand volcanoes, it is easier for them to have an image of them,” he said.

There was, he said the growing awareness of volcanic wines, which often command a premium, and therefore a greater opportunity to talk about them to consumers.

“Chile needs to educate [consumers] more about what is special to get people spending more,” he argued. “The volcanic influence puts it in a different price level as it is more terroir driven. And Chile is starting to make inroads in those categories – it was very conservative and tended to push more brands, but now the premium side is growing.”

He pointed out that there are around 2,900 volcanoes across Chile, around 90 of which are still active and require monitored, with volcanic material dispersed over time by the rivers flowing from the Andes towards the Coastal Mountain Range, taking in the Aconcagua valley Maipo, Rapel, Curicó, Maule, Bío Bío and the Araucanía region in the south.

“The whole idea is to produce wines that have the fruity Chilean characteristic, but with an added minerality,” Gordon argues. “Chile is well-positioned for easy, fruity, entry-level wines, butour concept is more about taking that forward. Volcanic soils give more structure and intensity and good ageing capability, and that makes it very interesting.”

“We want to build a brand slowly and surely, but in Chile, that is lacking as it is too short term.”

The company has access to five different vineyards across Chile, including Leyda, Maipu and Maule as well as contract growers from Bío Bío. Overseen by winemaker María del Pilar Díaz and geologist Gonzalo Henríquez, production started in 2009 and has grown to a 20k case operation. This spring Bodegas Volcanes de Chile launched in the UK with importer Connoisseur Estates, targeting the UK independent and off-trade, which allow the wines to be hand-sold.

Currently, its biggest markets include Brazil, China, Canada, and Colombia, but Gordon has a five-year plan to build the UK into its biggest market by more than doubling its market share to around 10% of overall production.

The range comprises three tiers – the Bodegas Volcanes Reserva range which comprises a Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon (RRP: £13.99), a smaller production Tectonia range, which includes a Grenache Syrah blend alongside the Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon (RRP:£19.99) and a single vineyard Syrah Carignan (RRP: £25.00).